Effect of removing springs from Freud FT2000 lookalike

[baldpate]

Hello all,

I recently bought a used Draper Expert R1900V router, a clone of the big old Freud FT2000, which I intend to use exclusively in a new home-built router table. I will be fitting a collet extender, which (if I can temporarily raise the router to its fullest extent) will make it easy to change bits above the table. I've tried lifting it by arm-power alone, and it's virtually impossible because the springs are so strong; I can obviously used the built-in fine-height adjuster, but that takes an age to wind up and down by the amount needed to change the bit; on my previous router/table I used a scissors jack both to raise the router, and for fine hight adjustment, but for various reasons I'd prefer not to go that route with my new table.

So, I'm thinking of removing the plunge springs, which should make it possible to raise the router to the max by hand. I've found this link which shows how to remove the springs from the Freud model, and I imagine the Draper is the same (PS: if anybody has actually performed this operation, I'd welcome any extra tips you could add about the process).

My main concern however, is whether the router will be stable enough without the considerable pressure of the springs to damp out any up-and down vibration, bearing in mind that the plunge lock and the fine hight adjuster both operate on the same plunge column, so the other column is now completely 'free'.

Does anybody out there use a Freud or similar (or indeed, probably any heavy router) with the plunge springs removed. If so, can you tell me your experience. Hopefully you can reassure me there won't be any stability problem.

Many thanks

Chris

 

[mailee]

I have an Hitachi router in one of my router tables and removed the springs a few years ago and it has been fine. It makes it much easier to raise and lower. HTH. :wink:

 

[beech1948]

I'm not sure I would want to do that as it would invalidate my warranty.

An alternate would be to use a woodgears.ca router lift made from wood in the workshop...I have yet to build one but these look to be a great idea.

http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/build.html

Al

 

[marcros]

does it invalidate the warranty though? If it went wrong and you neaded to claim, it is only a matter of putting them back on.

 

[baldpate]

I have an Hitachi router in one of my router tables and removed the springs a few years ago and it has been fine. It makes it much easier to raise and lower. HTH. :wink:

Thanks for the confirm - I think I'll give it a shot.

I'm not sure I would want to do that as it would invalidate my warranty.

If it had been bought new, I might have concerns - but it came to me second-hand, without warranty (which I suspect has long expired, since I don't think Draper have sold this model for a while now). The wooden lifter is neat - I'll keep it in mind if my plan doesn't work.

 

[Tony Spear]

I've got the FT2000, which I use in the Woodrat and the Triton table.
I've got Woodrat plunge bars fitted, which allow me when it's in the table to bring it up to max plunge level and it's then quite easy to lock it off and change the cutter. I haven't used the table recently, but from memory, I think it's just possible to get at the collett from above. From what I remember it's a bit of a b***er to fit the bars, but manageable with patience and a bit of bending!

For depth setting, I use the plunge bars to get a fairly close approximation of cutter height and lock it, then it's dead easy to twiddle the fine height adjuster to get the final setting.

That way it's really easy to take it out of the Rat or the table in order to use it hand held if I'm doing a job that my 1/4" isn't man enough for.

 

[baldpate]

Tony,

that's very interesting. I considered using the Woodrat plunge bars, but eventually discounted that option (or, rather, demoted it to 'first reserve') for a couple of reasons.

One was that my router will be mounted on a table made of 40mm worktop, to a plate barely larger than the base diameter of the router; I suspect I would have to excavate quite a bit of worktop around the base recess in order to be able to operate the bars, so weakening it's support.

The other reason you might be able to comment on from first hand experience. The compatibility list on the Woodrat site says that to fit the bars to an FT2000, the "Switch needs to be sawn off" (though strangely it doesn't say the same for my Draper model, although physically it looks identical). I was a bit reluctant to do this ! Can you confirm from your experience that it is necessary or (perhaps you avoided it with that "bit of bending" you mention :wink: )?

Regards

Chris