Edge banding a curve

[EightBySix]

Hi there. I'm making a computer desk/bench with 18mm oak veneered MDF. Lots of how-to videos to get me started with the iron on edge banding, but the desk is L-shaped with a curve rather than a right angle and I'm not sure how to best apply it to the curved section, especially since it's concave - it will be hard to make good contact with the iron.

I read that contact adhesive is the best bet for curves - but how would that sit with the pre existing heat sensitive glue?

Any advice?

 

[mailee]

If this is the shape you mean:

I would just use the edge of the iron gently and follow it up with a dowel to press it down while it sticks. I prefer to use solid wood for the edges of desks like this and use edge clamps to hold them in place while the glues sets. HTH. :wink:

 

[EightBySix]

That's exactly the shape I mean. I'll have a practice run with a small offcut. I did think of using an old soldering iron, with tip removed as a burnisher / iron....

 

[doctor Bob]

hot air gun

 

[rileytoolworks]

hot air gun

+1

Adam.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

I hate contact glue, it's messy, difficult to apply smoothly and never really sets properly. PVA is the stuff to use for edge banding. The issue, of course, is to get it to set quickly enough. For straight and convex curves then an iron is the best way, with frequent checks to make sure you are not overheating the edge banding (this works really well on laminate worktops BTW). For a convcave curve I suggest something metallic and suitably curved that can be heated to prpvide the same result. Then start at one end, get that stuck down and move gradually along, making sure that each part sets progressively.

 

[EightBySix]

I ended up using the iron, but going over and over slowly, as there are only small contact points due to the curve. worked out fine though. I liked that I got a 2nd chance to remelt the glue for the bits I had missed.

Thanks for the advice everyone.