DX from WE

[Steve Maskery]

Afternoon guys & gals
I've been filming this week, trying to keep my workshop clean.
Enjoy
S

 

[Chems]

Love the router modification. At first it flew past, but then you could see it going in an even better the rebate/dado then acted like a bit of ducting and sucked in the initial overspray!

Can you talk through the method used to make such a big hole in your plate?

 

[Harbo]

Steve you seem to have a "front door" but I cannot make out if the underside of your table is enclosed?

I made one based loosely on Norm's design with the router enclosed in a cabinet. With a double connector and a flap gate I can control the suck from the fence area and/or through the cutter area - it works well.

Rod

 

[Steve Maskery]

Chems
First I tried to dril a 30mm hole with a hole saw. Fortunately I tried it in a piece of scrap. I'm glad I did as it was a disaster. Rough as a rough thing that's been roughened. But this method worked:

Drill a suitable hole in a block of wood

Drill 3 holes in your plate, two for screws and one big enough for the bearing on the roundover cutter.

SCrew the block to the plate and use the bearing to flush the ally hole to the wooden block.

The sawdust did rush past to start with. That's becuse it is not channelled so well and I had my DX turned down low. The one problem with this is if the DX is on max, it becomes very hard to push the workpiece over the table!

Harbo
My table is a Norm, too, but I've never found that the DX from the enclosed cabinet to be very effective. Perhaps I just need a stronger DX, but it seems to me that the cabinet just acts like one of Mike G's baffle boxes. It's always full of dust.
If the angle looks strange it's because I filmed it with the table propped up like a car bonnet.

 

[Tim Nott]

Don't have a mitre saw but the router table thing is absolutely brilliant. I'm surprised no manufacturer has thought of it. Just done it on my home-made plywood table and it works an absolute treat. Thank you Steve.

 

[Steve Maskery]

We aim to please

S

 

[LuptonM]

Might be a stupid question but how do u switch the router on and off? I've only seen routers that u have to physically hold the on button down

 

[Steve Maskery]

There are no stupid q's only stupid a's!

That router has a "proper" on/off switch. It's permanently On, and I operate it via an external NVR switch o the RH side of the table.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Chems]

Chems
First I tried to dril a 30mm hole with a hole saw. Fortunately I tried it in a piece of scrap. I'm glad I did as it was a disaster. Rough as a rough thing that's been roughened. But this method worked:

Drill a suitable hole in a block of wood

Drill 3 holes in your plate, two for screws and one big enough for the bearing on the roundover cutter.

SCrew the block to the plate and use the bearing to flush the ally hole to the wooden block.

So you did it with the hole saw undersized? Or you used the bearing guided bit to cut out with material been removed from both sides of the cutter?

 

[Steve Maskery]

I didn't use a hole saw. I drilled a hole bigger than the bearing on my roundover (I think it was 5/8"), plunged the RO through that and ran it around the inside of the hole. Al is soft and easily worked with TCT cutters.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Chems]

Thanks steve. The only experience I have with routing ally was with a thick bit I got off of ebay. It broke my cutter an made a lot of noise. I'll defiantly do this mod myself.

 

[Henning]

Ingenious as always, Steve =D>

One thing i'm wondering though, is how do you think this will affect the plate in the long term when it comes to sagging?

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'll defiantly do this mod myself.

No need to defy me, Chems, I'm positively encouraging you to do it.

One thing i'm wondering though, is how do you think this will affect the plate in the long term when it comes to sagging?

To be honest I'd not considered that. But it is aliminium, not phenolic, and the router isn't that heavy. I've not noticed any sag (but I might have to find my feeler gauges).

Cheers
Steve

 

[Chems]

definitely! I have a total brain block on that word!

 

[Steve Maskery]

definitely! I have a total brain block on that word!

We'd noticed!

How's the uni course going?
S

 

[Chems]

Its hard, very hard. Wrote my first few programs thou. They are piling on the work, which is surprising, how they expect us to know anything, we've only been going for 2 weeks! An one week of that was do nothing fresher week! Take it back about the traffic, its awful just like every other place in the UK.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I went back to uni (the other one) in my forties to do an MBA. It was both fantastic and totally knackering, I've not worked so hard for anything in my life. But I wouldn't have missed it for the world. It's just a pity that I now appear to be unemployable. Apparently I am "over-qualified" and "have no experience".

Destitution looms.

Are well, back to the film studio. I mean workshop.
S

 

[Harbo]

Hi Steve - just made your BS Circle Cutter Jig - the BWW article triggered me off

Just have to change the blade from a re-sawing type to try it out.
I used some brass rod for the dowels.

One minor point (just in case people blindly follow the dimensions) - the overall length depends on your bandsaw - my 352 has a much smaller table than yours.

Rod

 

[Steve Maskery]

Excellent, Rod. pleased to hear it. Yes, dims are just a guide.

Actually you could make it that size for a small bandsaw, but just change the mounting block for an L-shaped piece, so that the swing point was way off to the right instead of being just off the edge of the table.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Harbo]

Steve wrote

change the mounting block for an L-shaped piece, so that the swing point was way off to the right instead of being just off the edge of the table.

Yes - that's a great idea then you can cut even bigger circles?

Rod