dust masks - whats the difference?

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Maverick81

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Can anyone tell me what dust mask i should be buying? What is all this P2 and P3 stuff?

Small workshop, woodworking, sawdust, sanding, MDF. Please advise.

Regards,
Chris.
 
3m 7500 respirator for me too. P2 would be fine for MDF but I use P3 all the time, finer filter has (I assume) got to be better?

What ever you do if it's MDF or any fine dust please wear something at all times.
 
Thanks guys....I'll certainly look into that.
Though how does the size thing work......how do i know if i am a "large" ?
 
Maverick81":l1itmw5c said:
Thanks guys....I'll certainly look into that.
Though how does the size thing work......how do i know if i am a "large" ?
I was watching the woodwhisperer,that is how i found out about that mask. Going from his description of himself he is a similar build to me. So i plumped for the large size. Fits like a glove, extremely comfortable and is the first dust mask i can breath in while working. Plus the vent is towards the base so no more fogged up glasses :)

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/ ... ame=safety
 
Yeah i know who you meam....Ive watched a lot of his stuff - must have missed that one though.
Thats a good enough guide for me then - as a similar build myself I'll try the large. Deffo worth it then if like you say you can also breath in and not steam up your goggs. Sounds like a well designed product by a good company and not a bunch of to$$ers flogging us a piece of tat which does solve problem but causes 2 others.
 
The good news is our P3 filters aren't pink :lol:

Yeah seeing marc use that mask is what sold it to me aswell. Best £15 i have spent :)
 
So I dont really need that carbon box thing....just the filter pads yes? And do you have to change them often or do they last a while?
 
I don't use the carbon box thingy, i think that is more for when spraying. I have had mine about 6 weeks so far, as yet to change the filters. But i only really use is with mdf. When i'm using the thicknesser etc i don't bother with it. Normally just routering.
 
P2 would be fine for most things including MDF as already stated P3 if you are spraying (I would change this daily or even less depending on time and amount of spray you are generating). You should change the filters when you think that your inspiration is a little harder than normal (when relaxed that is). I would look into a face fit test if you decide to wear a mask. Masks may feel like they "fit like a glove", but there may be breaks in the seal due to the genetic shape of one's face.

I personally think for a first time mask user a face fit test is paramount. The test is based upon the ability of the mask to remain sealed whilst carrying out several low activity exercises. It will work out the best fit depending of the negative pressure that remains in the mask and also the amount of additional oxygen molecules (which are smaller by a mile to most wood dust fine ones or otherwise) that get sucked in through the failure of the seal due to the shape of the face.

In general the face fit results should last you a while, unless you put on or lose weight dramatically.

Hope this helps
 
Don't forget to shave (your face that is), otherwise it will not seal to your skin.

That's why the Army and Air Force only allow beards on medical grounds.

Oz
 
Medical chit issue "excused from shaving" for reasons normally concerned with dermatologist issues. Such as acne and other skin disorders. Primary reason for non beards is correct sealing of service issued NBC (nuclear, biological and chemical) gasmasks

One may note that the navy wears beards that is because in vessels they over pressure the hull that prevent NBC contaminants exposure.

Finally, only way to ensure correct size respiratory protective equipment is to have a suitable fit test, if you are at work this should be provided by your employer, and records of the fit test kept. The user should have access to these records upon request.
 
I was doing some spraying tonight and felt as if the filter in my mask needed changeing, hard to breathe. I changed it to a P3 filter and it did not work, I could smell the paint fumes. The old filter had a charcoal elemant. I thought P3 could be used for spraying or is P3 only suitable for water based. I was useing QD enamel thinned with synthetic thinners.
 
I think the charcoal filters are required for any type spraying. Also some spraying will require an air fed mask as filters on their own are not sufficient.
 
carlb40":3il28fa0 said:
P2 is for fine dusts. P3 is fine dusts plus organic vapours.

P3 is really just fine dust - if you want to filter organic vapours you need an A-rated mask. Much like the P-ratings (particulate) the A-ratings (no idea if the A stands for anything) go:

A1: might do something
A2: stops a decent proportion of organic vapours
A3: stops most organic vapours.



It's quite common for P3 masks to also be rated to A2, so that's probably where the confusion comes from. That said, I expect an A3 mask will probably do P3 as well, just by virtue of fine dust being much bigger than most organic vapour molecules!

It's also worth checking the expiry dates on the filters themselves - they have a use-by, and I've certainly noticed them becoming less effective with age.
 
Make sure any carbon filters/spraying masks are kept in a sealed container when not used. Sooner or later the carbon will reach a saturation point and stop working, if their left out to open air when not being used they will reach saturation point just from absorbing whatever pollutants are in the air around them - thus being useless for your protection and a waste of money.
 
Thanks chaps, I got some new filters for my sundstrom mask. I got a gas filter A2 and a P3, is it necesary to use both filters and if so so which order should they be.
 
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