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Ducting height?

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Hsmith192

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1)Should ducting be as high as possible with drop downs to the machine level.

2) Or......should it be the height of the machines all the way?

I want to know what people have done in their workshops.

Thank you,
 

Inspector

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Depends on your shop and how you lay out the machines. If you have to get past doors and windows or want ducts going to the middle of the room then high enough so you don't bonk your head or hit it with lumber when you flip boards or sheet goods over. Consideration of the light placement should be kept in mind. If your machines are all along a wall with no doors or low windows to contend with then machine/bench height is fine. You can also run it along the floor against the wall. One of the nicest is if there is easy access below the floor to put the ducting in having it pop up under or beside the machine you are going to. There is no right or wrong as long as you are keeping the duct runs as short as practical.

Pete
 

Hsmith192

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Thank you- the machines that need dust extraction are all on the left hand side.

The dust extractor that I have has an outlet that is about hip height.

I think I might go as high as possible then have them running down so I can do something with the walls in between the machines
 

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Inspector

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How powerful is your DC? If you run along the wall it doesn't have to lift as much therefore collects a little better. If the DC is between 1hp or 2hp you want to do everything you can to keep the runs as short as you can. You can always hang cabinets/shelves above the duct and use benches/carts/cabinets below.

Pete
 

Hsmith192

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How powerful is your DC? If you run along the wall it doesn't have to lift as much therefore collects a little better. If the DC is between 1hp or 2hp you want to do everything you can to keep the runs as short as you can. You can always hang cabinets/shelves above the duct and use benches/carts/cabinets below.

Pete

Hi Pete- it’s a 2HP and it “claims” it can do 2000m/hr@ 100mm and 2500m/hr @125mm.

The whole length of the wall is just about 6m.
 

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The DC ratings are done with just the impeller and as short a test duct as they can use. No filters etc. They take a single reading in the middle of the duct where the airflow is highest. In real life you can expect about half the claimed airflow in a system. Also a 100mm/4" duct can only flow about 679m/hr/400CFM and a 125mm/5" can only flow about 1360m/hr/800CFM. It is a limitation of the air around you pushing itself into the duct no matter how much your DC can draw. A 1500mm/6" duct can move about 2039m/hr/1200CFM but only if your DC is up to it. Some 2hp DCs can be modified/opened up to do it, not all though.

Pete
 

MARK.B.

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With a run of 6 Meters your machine should have no problems even if you choose to mount the ducting overhead . As Pete say's each workshop owner will have different need's with their layout etc etc , if you are lucky enough to build your own shop , then you can plan it out in detail and fit to the plan , even then i bet you a fiver ;) most have had to tinker about with bits of the layout over time as machine upgrades and different needs occur :whistle::whistle::whistle:
 

Hsmith192

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Thanks- I think I’m trying to get 1000 m/hr so I might increase the duct size to try and get that.

Thanks for the advice guys- I’ll try running a length along the wall and if my needs change I can always raise it higher
 

Hsmith192

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Thanks, I’ll do that when I’ve got it set up.

👍 thanks for the help
 

sometimewoodworker

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Thanks- I think I’m trying to get 1000 m/hr so I might increase the duct size to try and get that.

Thanks for the advice guys- I’ll try running a length along the wall and if my needs change I can always raise it higher
That seems to be a bit low for decent dust collection unless you are going to exhaust the waste air without filtration.
 

PaddyR70

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I chose to have it in the loft space of my garage with no regrets. It’s longest run is 6 meters. Although I’m still yet to hook up to a machine. My shop is only 24 sqm so every inch I can save is well worth it. Don’t forget to earth if using UPVC. My Laguna CFlux 1 claims 1224 m3 realistically.
 

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Robbo60

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Thank you- the machines that need dust extraction are all on the left hand side.

The dust extractor that I have has an outlet that is about hip height.

I think I might go as high as possible then have them running down so I can do something with the walls in between the machines
I re-jigged my shop so all down one side (mitre saw used to be other side) and ran it above work bench. Window sort of dictated height. Forgive extension cables - I don't do electrics
 

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Hsmith192

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That seems to be a bit low for decent dust collection unless you are going to exhaust the waste air without filtration.
Oh yeah- sorry I meant 1500m/hr - on 125mm ducting.

If you use reducers on machines will that effect the airflow dramatically?
 

Lard

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Hi Paddy,
Who did your foam spraying? Any condensation issues since ?

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I chose to have it in the loft space of my garage with no regrets. It’s longest run is 6 meters. Although I’m still yet to hook up to a machine. My shop is only 24 sqm so every inch I can save is well worth it. Don’t forget to earth if using UPVC. My Laguna CFlux 1 claims 1224 m3 realistically.
 

dickm

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This is my setup when it was partially completed. Record drum collector in the corner, and ducting just below ceiling height with drop downs. Biggest problem is noise; that Record beast is about Concorde takeoff for decibels. If I live long enough, will look for something quieter!
 

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Hsmith192

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I like your set up. I see that by putting it high you can access other parts of your workshop as opposed to just one wall.
 

OldWood

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PaddyR70 - if that is an up-and-over garage door to your workshop, please get rid of it. My father's workshop was much the same and it killed him! Unfortunately due to sparks from metal cutting, wood shavings caught fire and he couldn't escape; OK easy now to call stupid but the ability to use that sort of door as a fire escape is virtually impossible in comparison to side hung doors.

As a further question I notice you have had the roof foam sprayed. I've heard that is an expensive operation - just what sort of cost was that on a per sq metre basis? One of the questions that comes up here quite regularly is how to cope with condensation on a metal roof, and spraying on insulation is suggested with an appropriate sucking in of breath on the cost!!
Rob
 

PaddyR70

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Hi Paddy,
Who did your foam spraying? Any condensation issues since ?
I did it. £800 in total. I hated doing it but it’s structural too so has strengthened the concrete fibre roof. I’ve got foil too for radiant heat - loft is vented . I’m tending to not look for issues (la la la) but I don’t think there are condensation issues. :)
 

PaddyR70

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PaddyR70 - if that is an up-and-over garage door to your workshop, please get rid of it. My father's workshop was much the same and it killed him! Unfortunately due to sparks from metal cutting, wood shavings caught fire and he couldn't escape; OK easy now to call stupid but the ability to use that sort of door as a fire escape is virtually impossible in comparison to side hung doors.

As a further question I notice you have had the roof foam sprayed. I've heard that is an expensive operation - just what sort of cost was that on a per sq metre basis? One of the questions that comes up here quite regularly is how to cope with condensation on a metal roof, and spraying on insulation is suggested with an appropriate sucking in of breath on the cost!!
Rob
Sorry about your father mate. That’s awful. I spent £800 on a DIY kit (several kits). That covered a 6m x 4m garage walls and apex ceiling with 1”-2” application. It was definitely worth it but I’d recommend foil too for radiant heat. I’ve fitted a 2 part a/c system and air dust control as I’m going to be making epoxy river items. Climate control is therefore important for curing.
 
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