Driveshaft

[marcros]

I am in the parts gathering stage to make one of these over winter.

http://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html

What do I need to purchase for the drive shaft- will 1" mild steel be round enough for this purpose?

I am planning to make a wooden pulley as per the plans because I do not have the means to cut a key-way and all pulleys that I have seen seem to need this.

 

[RogerP]

I am in the parts gathering stage to make one of these over winter.

http://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html

What do I need to purchase for the drive shaft- will 1" mild steel be round enough for this purpose?

I am planning to make a wooden pulley as per the plans because I do not have the means to cut a key-way and all pulleys that I have seen seem to need this.

Silver Steel is ground to fairly close tolerances (or that which I've had has been) and would probably be better.

For the keyways you'll need to mill or broach.

 

[CHJ]

What do I need to purchase for the drive shaft- will 1" mild steel be round enough for this purpose?.

I would say Bright Mild steel bar would be fine, the only critical aspects are the fit of the bearing bores on the shaft.

Just remember 1" and 25mm as mentioned in the sketch are not the same, 1" being 25.4mm so you need to make sure you get either metric or imperial stock and bearings.

 

[marcros]

yes, I noticed he had mixed his units.

Would it be better to get the 25.4 and get somebody to turn it to fit the bearings, or will 1" bright mild steel and 1" bearings be close enough.

 

[WoodMangler]

Would it be better to get the 25.4 and get somebody to turn it to fit the bearings, or will 1" bright mild steel and 1" bearings be close enough.

BMS is usually undersize by 5-10 thou. PGMS (Precision Ground Mild Steel) is accurate to the thou though.

 

[woodpig]

I suspect you may have to make do with Bright Mild Steel. A wooden pulley is not something I'd use though. You don't need to use a keyway on a metal pulley if you don't want to, you could just pin it to the shaft or even use a bolt. May be worth a visit to a breakers yard, a half shaft from a RWD car or Van could be just the job for this project...

 

[marcros]

You could be onto something with the half shaft idea, assuming I can get a bearing to suit. I will look at the options

 

[woodpig]

Ask for the bearing as well when you get the shaft!

 

[woodfarmer]

It is usually possible to cut a straight keyway using a cutting blade in an angle grinder. I would be inclined to cut the keyway first before doing any time consuming work on the shaft, just in case you mess up the first time. That way it will only cost you an inch or two off the end of your bar.

Hope that helps.

 

[marcros]

i am slowly getting the bits for this project. I have sourced a motor, and found some oak to use for the frame. Having briefly looked on ebay at the price of a half shaft, I think it will probably be easier to just use a bit of bright mild steel and buy some new pillow block bearings. I need to look at the pulley options, either cut a keyway as above or go with the wooden idea on the plans.

One thing that I haven't yet found is the maximum difference between the hole in the bearings and the shaft. I presume that these need to be an interference fit, but if this is not possible, can loctite make up the difference? The stated tolerance on 25mm bright is - 0.085mm / + 0.000mm.

 

[Inspector]

Good pillow block bearings (even the Asian imports) have a locking collar that is off set so that when tightened any minor size difference of the shafting doesn't mater.

If you have medium to large wood lathe you can make a drum sander on the same principles as the stand alone one in the plans. The drum mounted between the headstock and tailstock with a the table mounted to the lathe's bed. Two pieces of plywood with a hinge along the edge parallel to the bed and some form of wedge or jackscrew to adjust them for sanding thickness. The rig also has the advantage of quick change of sanding grits by having multiple drums that you swap out as needed.

Pete

 

[woodpig]

Try a breakers yard for a half shaft, could be cheaper than buying some mild steel rod.

 

[marcros]

Good pillow block bearings (even the Asian imports) have a locking collar that is off set so that when tightened any minor size difference of the shafting doesn't mater.

If you have medium to large wood lathe you can make a drum sander on the same principles as the stand alone one in the plans. The drum mounted between the headstock and tailstock with a the table mounted to the lathe's bed. Two pieces of plywood with a hinge along the edge parallel to the bed and some form of wedge or jackscrew to adjust them for sanding thickness. The rig also has the advantage of quick change of sanding grits by having multiple drums that you swap out as needed.

Pete

I will give this some thought Pete. The downside is that the positioning of my lathe may not suit access to both sides of it, ie infeed and outfeed. But it would be smaller than 2 separate machines and just an attachment to be stored when not in use.

 

[marcros]

If I was to use the lathe, would I just turn the drub between centres? Would I be able to accurately remount it using these centre marks?

 

[Inspector]

If I was to use the lathe, would I just turn the drub between centres? Would I be able to accurately remount it using these centre marks?

If it were me I would mount a faceplate with long screws for the headstock end and at the tailstock would screw a disc of steel that has been centre drilled (60 degree cone) in the centre with screw holes around the outside like the faceplate also screwed on with long screws. You would want to get a live centre with a cone (metal lathe type) if you don't already have one. The faceplate would allow you to remount when ever you need to and be centred.

I would turn the drum on the lathe and finish it by pushing some plywood with sand paper glued to it between the drum and the adjustable table to make the drum smooth and match the table. As much as I hate MDF it is probably the best material for the drum as it is consistent throughout and could be made by either laminating lengthwise with a glue that doesn't creep or soften. Or with discs and glue along with screws inside, offsetting them as you go. Sealing the whole thing with thin CA glue or a lacquer would be a good idea too.


I hope you have good dust collection because a drum sander of any kind makes a lot of dust.

Pete