Drilling holes and bench dogs

[Bigus]

Hi

I'm in the process of building my new work bench and fitted a nice old Parkinsons No 16 vice to the side of the bench yesterday. However in drilling the holes for the bolts affixing it to the worktop it reminded me how unprecise drilling holes can be (at least when I do it anyway!). For that job I used a 25mm spade bit to create a 15mm deep recess and I was going to cut some 25mm beech dowelling to plug the holes on top of the bolts However the holes ended up being about 27-28mm wide and not all that crisp. This was probably due to me using a hand drill. So, I've now ordered some 30mm dowelling which I'm going to have to sand down the diameter of to plug the recesses.

This has made me wonder about the bench dog holes and how to go about drilling them (btw, for the dogs I've got some 19mm walnut dowelling which I was going to cut to length and oil). So I need to create lots of crisp tight holes in the bench top (which is two 38mm thick solid beech kitchen worktops glued together) and also in one of the legs (100x100mm softwood).

Any tips for getting straight clean holes? What sort of drill bits are best (standard wood, forstner, spade)?

Thanks

 

[dc_ni]

I've not had to drill dog holes but if I did I would go for something like this: http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-auger-bit-25x-100mm/34567

I have a set of spade bits but don't like using them for the reasons you stated.

You could also use a couple of pieces of wood in an L shape stood on end to guide the drill when starting the hole off. if you search on YouTube for drilling straight holes you should find what I mean.

 

[Bigus]

Thanks for the reply. I hadn't thought of using Auger bits - for some reason I associate those with hand drills but the big flat spirals presumably help with clean edges.

I'll check youtube out for the straight holes.

 

[Racers]

Sharpen your bit, I have used a spade bit to drill nice crisp holes in maple.

My vice is fixed from underneath with coach bolts.

An 18mm bit in a plunge router would be the best way to do your dog holes or at least start them.

Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I drilled some dog holes in my bench over the weekend.

I bought a bit called a "Woodbeaver" its a four cutter spiral bit and cuts an incredibly neat an quick hole. So fast indeed I had to hold off on the pressure.
I first took the time to drill a perpindicular hole in some scrap 2 x 4 and used that as the starter guide to ensure a nice straight hole in the bench top. I initially used a battery drill but found my corded drill gave more control and power as the battery drill sometimes got caught up in the timber as I was drilling through. The corded drill was effortless to use.

I bought the bit on ebay, they come in various sizes although not sure if they go up to 3omm or so. I f memory serves it cost around £12.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/armeg-wood-be ... -_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales track

Good luck

David

 

[bugbear]

Any tips for getting straight clean holes? What sort of drill bits are best (standard wood, forstner, spade)?

Thanks

A cheap drill stand, with the pillar rotated beyond the base, and the base clamped (somehow...) in place would make for control and accuracy.

Like this:

post915082.html?hilit=%20present%20from%20our%20lass%20#p915082

(his drill stand wasn't cheap, but the principle applies)

BugBear

 

[Sporky McGuffin]

A cheap drill stand, with the pillar rotated beyond the base, and the base clamped (somehow...) in place would make for control and accuracy.

That's roughly how I did it when making my thicnkessing jig:

 

[Woodmonkey]

+1 for the beaver bit, went though my nearly 4inch thick bench top with ease and nice clean holes

 

[Monkey Mark]

+1 for the beaver bit, went though my nearly 4inch thick bench top with ease and nice clean holes

Another +1 The only thing I would mention is to keep a good grip of your drill. They go through very fast and basically pull themselves through and when I once hit a knot the drill almost broke my wrist.

 

[bugbear]

A cheap drill stand, with the pillar rotated beyond the base, and the base clamped (somehow...) in place would make for control and accuracy.

That's roughly how I did it when making my thicnkessing jig:

Has everybody on this forum got a Wolf drill stand?!

BugBear

 

[flying haggis]

A cheap drill stand, with the pillar rotated beyond the base, and the base clamped (somehow...) in place would make for control and accuracy.

Like this:

post915082.html?hilit=%20present%20from%20our%20lass%20#p915082

(his drill stand wasn't cheap, but the principle applies)

BugBear[/quote]
if you can use a drill stand kneel on the plate to keep it upright and stable

 

[RogerP]

A cheap drill stand, with the pillar rotated beyond the base, and the base clamped (somehow...) in place would make for control and accuracy.

That's roughly how I did it when making my thicnkessing jig:

Has everybody on this forum got a Wolf drill stand?!

BugBear

.. or one of these ...

15 quid.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-drill-guide

 

[Woodmonkey]

Yeah that's what I used, some pics here:
yet-another-workbench-wip-t87347.html

 

[RossJarvis]

Has everybody on this forum got a Wolf drill stand?!

BugBear

Hasn't everybody? Here's mine;

 

[DiscoStu]

What about Forstner bits? Nice clean cut with them. I also have some Bosch blue spade bits that have a twist in them and a small screw thread on the point and they go through anything and keep pulling through. I've used them on my workbench and get very clean holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bugbear]

On drill bits, I've seen reports of people getting good results from spade bits by careful regrinding and sharpening, in effect making a slight sharp nicker effect at the perimeter.

The spade bit in principle can work, but actual examples can fall somewhat below the Platonic ideal.

BugBear

 

[Racers]

I made a 20mm spade bit into a 19mm by grinding away the sides and it now works very well.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

I made a 20mm spade bit into a 19mm by grinding away the sides and it now works very well.

Pete

If I know you, you probably tidied up the "fit and finish" while you were about it.



BugBear

 

[Racers]

Yes it did get a tickle or two, I did taper the blade slightly as well to reduce friction.

Pete

 

[Bigus]

Thanks for all the replies. I took a trip down to Screwfix and got one of the 19mm Woodbeaver bits. I was going to get an auger bit and compare but they didn't have a single 19mm bit in those.

I have a drill stand (not a Wolf one!) so will have to work on how to get it clamped in place. RossJarvis, is your drill stand screwed onto that larger piece of wood? Am wondering if that is stable enough and would negate having to clamp the stand to teh top somehow, which woudl make things alot quicker for drilling lots of holes..

Do you guys drill the holes straight through the worktop? I was thinking of going half way through and hoovering out dust every so often if they get clogged up, as I plan to build a cupboard inside the bench.