drill type chucks.

[amazilia]

Hi, I'm a beginner having just purchased a lovely fox mini/midi lathe. I have just bought 3 chucks from Proops, 2 of them the required mt2 taper. When I tap out the prong, and replace with the chuck on the taper, it doesn't want to stay in with the lathe running. I guess I'm doing something wrong but I don't know what ! Any suggestions please.
Regards Terry

 

[procell]

Hi Amazilla and welcome to the forums.

You have found the right place for informative and helpful people. The Members on this forum seem to know almost anything to do with turning and are more than willing to share that knowledge.

Are the chucks you have bought like the ones you see in power drills? If they are then they are not intended to be used in the headstock of the lathe. They are for use in the tail stock to hold drills when boring holes etc.

The best thing to do is let these good people know which model lathe it is and they will advise you what accessories you need to get that will fit.
If it is a Fox F46 251 Midi Lathe - 10"
Technical Specifications:
Motor ... ¾hp Induction
Speed (variable) ... 410rpm, 650rpm, 1030rpm, 1500rpm, 2200rpm & 3050rpm
Distance between centres ... 15" (375mm)
Swing over bed ... 10"
Thread ... 1" x 8tpi
Tapers ... Morse No.2
Tail stock spindle travel ... 2¼" (60mm)
Weight ... 35Kg

The main measurement is the spindle thread 1" x8tpi. Can be found on the outside of the place where you were trying to fit the drill chucks. This is where you will screw mounting attachments like face plates, chucks etc.

If you are totally new to turning I would advise looking for a local Wood Turning club and going along to a couple of meetings. Also do some research online. There are literally thousands of Videos on Youtube etc demonstrating basic and more advanced techniques.

I only took up the hobby about 3 months ago but the advice above was some of the best I have ever received.

Look forward to seeing your creations in the future.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Just to expand on that - jacobs chucks on a morse taper arbour need positive pressure to keep them in the taper. Otherwise they will work loose.

There are two ways round this - you use the tailstock to keep pressure against the chuck / work piece so the chuck can't work loose or you use a draw bar (threaded bar) which goes through the hollow spindle to hold it in the taper. Not all arbours have a threaded hole for this purpose so you need to either buy one that has or drill/tap it yourself.

 

[chipmunk]

There may be another reason with a tanged MT arbor and that's the depth of the taper in the headstock.

I have a Jet mini 1014 and it's a fantastic little lathe but the headstock taper is too shallow to take the tang-ended arbor for my drill chuck properly. When I insert the arbor as far as it will go it rocks very slightly on the tang rather than seating firm. This is easy to check.

I get around this problem by using a morse taper carrier in my Axminster chuck C-jaws but you could equally cut off the tang with a hacksaw if this is your problem or follow Paul's advice and use a theaded draw bar arbor.

Arc Euro sell arbors for that purpose...

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... uck-Arbors

HTH
Jon

 

[amazilia]

Thanks everyone, a combination of all the above is required ! At least until I get a pillar drill. I keep nepenthes carnivorous plants, and now I know what the fly thinks !! It's a slippery slope !!
Regards Terry

 

[wizard]

Just thought I would mention that the tail stock will be a morse taper but drill chucks are a J taper. Once a J taper is pressed into a chuck it should remain there.