Dovetail joint ratios

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nonidentity

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Hi all,

When I look at the dovetails produced in the pics at this forum they look great compared to mine. :shock:

Is there a rule in respect to ratios of pin/tails AND how is this nodified dependent on the thickness of the material/width of boards?

I don't get how these guys produce the nice joints they do. :roll: How?

Any advice/guidance?

Thanks in advance.

:D
 
The main thing with dovetails is to take your time marking up, first your tails and then your pins but when it comes to making the pins you must make sure that you take your time with this as this is where some problems start.

You have to find a way to mark up with out the wood moving, one way is to place you wood in the vice ( what you pins are to be marked on )and keep it level with your top, so that you can mark your pins without in moving.
Then make sure you know which side of your lines you are cutting on and mark with a pencil.

You will now have to cut to your lines.
I hope that is clear :)
 
Hi Non
I buy all mine from www.greatdovetails.com -so much faster than making them myself. Nah, just kidding :lol: :lol:
A router jig like the Leigh or Rat can make for perfect dovetails with a little practise. And with a saw and a couple of chisels you can cut them the traditional way. Here's some useful step-by-step stuff and here
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
OK maybe I was a little obscure.

I have a Leigh jig etc.

BUT......is there a rule of thumb/best practice etc. .............in order to create well proportioned appearance of dove-tails.

It is not the making of the joint but getting the joint to look right.

Any guidance on this...... :D
 
Apologies N, should of read a little slower :oops:
I seem to use similar depth's for things like drawers and have got into a routine that I find attractive (i.e the number of tails, etc.)
The best I can suggest is to drawer the dovetails out full size on a piece of paper before cutting them to be sure you are happy with the look.
I find the half pins make the most difference on the outcome, if that's any help,
Cheers
Philly :D
 
Thanks.

perhaps it is the fact (reading through the materials elsewhere) that many of the illustrations of articles are hand cut thus the "packing" of the tails / pins is tighter than what can be made on jigs. :?:
 
I'm not a fan of large numbers of tails and pins as you generally see made with those comb type jigs. Once in awhile I'll see a project made with a leigh jig where the same has been done. I also don't care for those type of joints because the pins and tails are the same width.

In my opinion the tails should be fairly wide and the pins narrow. In a shallow drawer one full pin in the center with two wide tails. In any case you'll always have an odd number of full pins and there should only be enough to make a solid joint.

How's that for a definite answer? :D
 
i think the question you are actually asking is whether there is a
"beauty" element in laying out the dovetails.

i think two things apply, the thickness of the drawer sides,
and whether you use different woods. and then the same thing
applies to a cabinet side.

if you are just looking for a fixing that works, then 3 or 4 per piece would
always work, but then if you are making a feature, on some, narrow pins look good, whilst on others wide pins work.

dare i say it, this is the value of the rat, it is easier to set out odd spacings
than with the leigh.

hope that helps too.
paul :wink:
 
FWIW, I believe Rob Cosman reckons there is no hard and fast rule but recommends the SWMBO Test - laydees being better attuned to judging what looks right. Allegedly.

As far as I'm concerned this both a Good thing and a Bad Thing. Good 'cos I have SWMBO Senses readily on tap without having to nip into the house to ask, get yelled at for bringing in sawdust and then wait half an hour while she's "just coming". A Bad Thing 'cos I have no-one else to blame... 8-[ :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 

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