Drawers - how do you rabbet yours?

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LancsRick

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Making some heavy duty drawer units at the minute for the back of our pickup and whilst I appreciate the difference between various joints (dovetail, mitre, etc) I can't say I've ever applied any science to how I do rabbet.

I typically do mine as 50/50 cuts, i.e. I set the router depth and width of cut to half of the board thickness to make two equal L shapes. I know some folks would just rabbet the entire width of a board along the face of another and leave the first board untouched. I'm sure some people will have a specific ratio of depth/width of cut they use for rabbet.

So my question out of curiosity is how do you do yours, and why?
 
The most important thing is accuracy not of the joint(also important) but the finished drawer. It needs to be the right size and square to work well.
 
Depends on the load the drawers carrying, personally I just butt joint, glued and Brad nailed, then glue and Brad nail the bottom panel on. That's assuming an all plywood construction to the drawer.
 
I was taught to call them lap joints, quite right about rebate/ rabbet. Dado grrrrrr.
The proportions, well the lap isn’t just cosmetic to cover the end grain it helps with the strength as well. So certainly a lot less than half the thickness on the wood but not so thin that it losses it’s strength, probably a minimum of 3-4 mm. Any nails or pins used (as well as glue) go through the other bit of wood into the end grain next to the lap.
Not just used on cheaper drawers either, they can be used in all sorts of applications and widths.
Ian
 
Most of the drawer boxes I make are in 1/2" ply, my preferred solution is what is know as the 1/4-1/4-1/4 method, but can be applied to thicker stock as well using different ratios.

Easiest way to explain it is shown in Stumpy Nubs video:



I like this method as when you get it set up right the drawer box locks together, making it far easier to glue up and in some cases I pin them and have put some domino's in once they are made for extra resilience.
 
Most of the drawer boxes I make are in 1/2" ply, my preferred solution is what is know as the 1/4-1/4-1/4 method, but can be applied to thicker stock as well using different ratios.

Easiest way to explain it is shown in Stumpy Nubs video:



I like this method as when you get it set up right the drawer box locks together, making it far easier to glue up and in some cases I pin them and have put some domino's in once they are made for extra resilience.

Fab thank you
 
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