Does anyone have a DeWalt dw876 Bandsaw?

[JakeS]

I recently purchased a second-hand dw876 for which a previous owner had misplaced the table! Anyway, I can bolt a bit of plywood to the trunnions - which are still in place and perfectly functional - but if I want to retain the ability to tilt the table with the blade installed, the new table would have to be the same thickness from trunnion-top to table-top as the original, or the pivot point will change and I risk buckling the blade. (Obviously this assumes an insert or whatever with a 45-degree bevel cut into the underside.)

Now, I probably don't need to tilt the table at all, I've not ever had to with my current bandsaw, but I'd like to retain the option if possible - so does anyone have this model saw? If so, could you do me a favour and measure how thick the table is at the point the trunnions are attached?

Alternatively, does anyone have any neat way of working out where the pivot point would be?

 

[dickm]

Well...... ideally, the pivot point would be where a line on the surface of the table intersects the blade. Difficult/impossible to fit any sort of hinge at this point, hence the circular track in the trunnion which is centred on it. If you see what I mean.........

 

[MickCheese]

Jake

Do you know if this is the same as the Elu one? I think it is the Elu 3401.

If so I have a spare table that you can have.

Mick

 

[JakeS]

Well...... ideally, the pivot point would be where a line on the surface of the table intersects the blade. Difficult/impossible to fit any sort of hinge at this point, hence the circular track in the trunnion which is centred on it. If you see what I mean.........

I understand, yeah - the trunnions are still fitted to the saw, so I don't need to fit a new hinge; I just need to know how thick to make the tabletop in order to position the surface of the table at that 'pivot point'! So I need to either get a measurement off an existing table, or find some method of working out how high up that pivot point is from measurements I can take from the trunnions...

Do you know if this is the same as the Elu one? I think it is the Elu 3401.

If so I have a spare table that you can have.

Thank you for the offer, but unfortunately after looking around at pictures of the Elu3401 I don't think it is - it looks the same as the DW738/739, which is the smaller bandsaw in DeWalt's range.

 

[Steve Maskery]

LOL! Who on earth just happens to have a spare bandsaw table lying around?????
S

 

[JakeS]

LOL! Who on earth just happens to have a spare bandsaw table lying around?????

Well - I have a saw without a table, so it stands to reason there must be someone else who has a table without a saw somewhere!

 

[dickm]

If you have the trunnion, then to find the centre of rotation "all" you need to do is to take a sort of brass rubbing of the trunnion, so that you can see clearly one of the circles on it. Then draw two or three tangents to the circle, and where each one just touches the circle, draw a line exactly at right angles to the tangent. Where these intersect is the centre of the circle. Of course, if the outer surface of the trunnion is an exact circly, you could do the same thing with a try square resting on the surface.
Probably worth repeating a few times, and taking an average position for the centre.

HTH

 

[Eric The Viking]

I think you're worrying unnecessarily about the pivot point.

The table on my saw is raised about 1" in order to get DX underneath, above the bottom guides. If I want to do bevel cuts, I simply drop in another throat plate. I cut them at the specific angle and keep them in case I need that again (45deg comes up a bit ).

Just occasionally it's a bit annoying (I have to split some oak board soon, which will need every MM of throat depth, so it'll have to be reassembled just for that job), but I'd rather have the mod with really good dust extraction than have the table spot on without DX.

So can you make up a table with a hole for 'disposable' throat plates?

Incidentally, Miles Tools in Shepton Mallet stock quite a lot of DeWalt spares - you never know, they might have a table.

HTH, E.

 

[JakeS]

I think you're worrying unnecessarily about the pivot point.

I'm not going to fret unduly about it, and if I can't find the information one way or another before I'm ready to proceed I'll just go with whatever size I happen to end up with and just have completely separate inserts for 90 and 45 degrees (and anything else I happen to want to use at any point in the future). As you probably suspect, the plan is to have a rebated 'shelf' onto which I can drop a replaceable zero-clearance insert. The nice thing about having the table the correct height and the pivot point at the surface being that I could theoretically create the kerf in the insert with the table horizontal, then take it out, mark a 45-degree line on the back edge with a combi square and saw/chisel away the 45-degree gap without having to worry about angle offsets and all that.

Incidentally, Miles Tools in Shepton Mallet stock quite a lot of DeWalt spares - you never know, they might have a table.

Thanks for the tip - I have checked around, and the going rate for a replacement table appears to be more than I paid for the whole rest of the saw, so I'm leaving that as a last resort!

The other nice thing about making the table myself is that I don't have to worry about drilling or cutting into it if I want to mount jigs or stops or whatever, 'cause I'll be able to make myself a[nother] replacement if I mess it up anyway. ;-)