Digging Bar Tips

[donkeyoaty]

Scratch that last query, have just noticed - digging bar is 'manufactured' (so probably machined or stamped?), chisel & point crow is drop forged. Might go with the latter, now.

 

[bugbear]

The easiest way to break concrete (from vast experience) is to find and edge, or make one with a heavy mel, dig the bent chisel end under it, put a brick or similar as a fulcrum, lever down to lift the edge of the concrete a little and bash it with the mel. With a gap underneath it will break surprisingly easily even if quite thick. If 2 people then one pushes and other bashes but if on your own just kick somethin under and it will work every time.

As regularly demonstrated by Tommy Walsh on groundforce.

I don't use mine for tree roots either as I've found that a mattock (grubber) does the job much better and quicker - after all that's one of the jobs it was made to do. Axe end cuts through roots you can see and the spade end cuts under to the ones you can't see. If a trunk is left the shrub or tree can be pushed over to get at the tap root. - easy peasy!

Bob

Agreed. For roots I use a "grubbing mattock" (as you describe) a old worn-short pickaxe (VERY strong, lots of leverage) and a road menders fork. Do NOT try to lever roots with a normal garden fork - you'll just bend the tines to no effect.

BugBear

 

[jakethebuilder]

My bar is hexagonal, six feet long, with a chisel on one end, and a point on the other. About an inch and a half in diameter. I like the hexagonal shaft, because it's easier to keep your grip when you start sweating. And you will be sweating if you heave that bar for more than a few minutes. It'll bend slightly, if I put all my 230 pounds on it, with a log fulcrum at the one foot mark, but with the hexagonal shaft, it's easy enough to flip it over and bend it back the other way. That would be tough to do with a round shaft, as it would tend to turn.

 

[Lons]

As regularly demonstrated by Tommy Walsh on groundforce.

I've never seen that program Bugbear though I know who he is (the guy with the bracees who did adverts?) Anyway, if it is him, I bet I used the method first - I'm older than him I think :wink: :lol:

Bob

 

[DMF]

Dean - let's assume, for now, that a bar is my only option. I have my reasons, I promise.

OK a promise is a promise so i'm happy :lol:

Shame your not closer, whatever you had in mind i would of willingly helped out with kit, as for the discussion in general, don't try to lever to much with digging bars they will bend and that can throw the balance off when you use them for what their for no matter how much you think you've straightened them, crow bar types yes much stronger, i got a set of combination bars that you can lever anything with but they were £250+ for the pair some 15 years ago. My head was with proper bits of concrete but to tommys spec a good graft would do it with a pick and a sledge if he accidentally put too much down!

With this type of thing always use what you have to hand, i know in this area i'm lucky and have the choice but two of the best tools were given to me, the first the welders on a job made me, a bar, made from a 9' length of some proper scaffold tube with the end hammered flat, 3 thick lengths of re-bar and some kiln dried sand in the void and the end welded shut, ended up one hell of a levering tool! That's what i use for levering under stumps if their isn't another tree i can chuck the old hand winch round i also got given. Of course if you have a petrol disc cutter then those tyrannosaur type blades are good for all kinds of mess too including root chopping, etc etc, whatever it is in your case i hope you have fun

Dean