Quantcast

DBT85s Workshop begins - Cladding Finished, Flooring and Guttering next

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Electrician came yesterday and got me all hooked up. For now its just lights, heat and main ring. He's happy to return at a later date if/when I want any 16a installed. He was in awe of the amount of sockets I'd put in 🤣

Also yesterday the floor arrived as well as some remaining timbers I needed to finish off. So here it all is piled up outside the workshop.



This morning I've been templating and cutting the new door lining part, my question @MikeG. is thus, am I right in thinking that this should be say 5mm off the floor with some brown mastic between it and the concrete to try and help stop the end soaking up any little water that might get under it? Obviously with the same between it and the plinth.



Hoping to have doors up in some form by the end of today but we'll see how that turns out!

Only got today and tomorrow so doors on is the main event and any cladding I can do is a bonus. Floor will be next week.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Ok. will do.

I other news its 4pm and no doors are up. I really wish I'd just bought parliment hinges or just fitted these T hinges in the traditional way. Utter pain in the buttocks.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Doors are on. Not finished but a lot less rain will find its way in. I also had the first experience of it remaining warm inside despite being cold outside which was so nice I immediately shut the door again.



In the end I did just get some stainless parliament hinges, 102x102 and they worked great. It did mean I had to fill in the cutout on the one door I'd been trying to do with the T hinges but that went ok.

For now one door has a 13mm sprung "animal" bolt at the top and a similarly chunky monkey tail bolt at the bottom. I need to drill a nice hole in my slab for that. Door alignment is not perfect but close enough that it'll be ok. I still need handles, locks and a rain deflector of some kind at the bottom. Probably some Bedec MSP too as I'm not sue the barn paint will adhere to the smooth finish on the doors.

With the doors at least on I can get the cladding finished (which will require me to do more painting), barge boards on, flooring sorted and maybe finally be in a place to actually clean up and move in. I can't wait to get some storage in there to help tidy it up 🤣
 

Haighy

New member
Joined
29 Oct 2018
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Winnersh
Taking an interest in your project, I'm reminded of a water/moisture ingress problem I had with my workshop. It is a log cabin style structure built up on a course of bricks on a concrete base, ie similar to yours. From your drawings I see that you are proposing to build your brickwork right on the edge of the concrete. If I had done that my problem would have been reduced but not eliminated so I'll tell the story:-
The brick course was built about 6" from the edge of the slab. The building timbers were laid directly on the bricks. After a year or so a few cracks developed in the brick mortar which allowed water ingress resulting in puddles on my workshop floor. This was a problem only on the SW facing wall subject to prevailing wind and rain. It was particularly alarming because I had put in a line of tool cupboards along that wall.
I tried various methods of sealing but to no avail. Eventually it was evident that the whole wall was suffering from the elements so drastic action was needed. This is the result:-View attachment 87591 Firstly I sealed the bricks to the slab with flexible plastic flashing. This was followed by cladding the entire wall with fibre shingles making sure they overlapped the flashing by a good margin. This system has been installed for about 4 years now and I've had no further problem.
With your design water falling off the walls will drain down the edge of the slab, but if cracks develop there may be a problem, although your 3 courses of bricks should be more stable than my single layer. It might be an idea to seal the brickwork to prevent moisture seeping through.
Brian
Hi @Yojevol I believe I have made a similar error with my workshop, can I ask exactly which flashing you mean? E.g. is it this kind? Bostik Flashband Grey 10m x 150mm

Did you consider modifying the slope of the concrete base away from the wall? I would think this is a better solution but obviously more effort...

Thanks,
Andrew
 

Yojevol

Clocking on
Joined
29 Jan 2017
Messages
562
Reaction score
83
Location
Cheltenham
Hi @Yojevol I believe I have made a similar error with my workshop, can I ask exactly which flashing you mean? E.g. is it this kind? Bostik Flashband Grey 10m x 150mm

Did you consider modifying the slope of the concrete base away from the wall? I would think this is a better solution but obviously more effort...

Thanks,
Andrew
Yes that's the stuff although I think it may have been an Evostick brand. If you use the method be sure to coat everything with primer first.
No, I never considered grinding away 26m of concrete.
Brian
 

Haighy

New member
Joined
29 Oct 2018
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Winnersh
Yes that's the stuff although I think it may have been an Evostick brand. If you use the method be sure to coat everything with primer first.
No, I never considered grinding away 26m of concrete.
Brian
Thanks, I will give that a try probably this weekend. Yes I did think adjusting the concrete would be less than straightfoward...!

Cheers,
Andrew
 

AJB Temple

Finely figured
UKW Supporter
Joined
13 Oct 2015
Messages
3,202
Reaction score
418
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Very nice.

I would suggest getting your earth grounding point protected. Easily hit with mowers etc and it is a key part of the electrical safety.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Very nice.

I would suggest getting your earth grounding point protected. Easily hit with mowers etc and it is a key part of the electrical safety.
Yeah its just been put in at where ground level should be once its filled in so it'll be looked after. I'll maybe put something else around it too.
 

Sheptonphil

Scrumpy junkie
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Messages
961
Reaction score
41
Location
Somerset
Looking real good. Nice to be able to do the work inside now without worrying about the weather. You can start to get the feel of the place and what is going to work. 👏👏
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Looking real good. Nice to be able to do the work inside now without worrying about the weather. You can start to get the feel of the place and what is going to work. 👏👏
Yeah I'm really looking forward to moving away from the building part and onto the interior more. Having never had this kind of space I've no real idea of where I want to put anything yet. I'm fairly sure I'll have a bench along the entire window wall and probably inset my mitre saw into it but apart from that I have no idea. It's going to get a bit crowded at first until I start working out better homes for things.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Well after finishing my 12 hour night shift I drove 2 hours home and set about the workshop. Little one was at nursery so I had some peace to plod along (until I was inevitably interrupted). The cladding on the 2 long was is complete. Hurrah. I offered up a board, marked it where the rafter feet needed to be and marked up and jigsawed accordingly.

I then set about sweeping up the mountain of sawdust so that the floor wasn't quite as dusty for the painting of 5 more boards which will allow me to finish the other gable end. Cladding will be complete! I still have to sort the barge boards out but that is another easy enough job.

Another 20l tin of paint has been ordered on someone elses dime as this one is nearly gone. Door handles ordered, brown mastic and some locks are on the way also.

I was close to picking up a Wadkin AGS10/12 and a Wadkin 9BGS in Leicester for £600, but despite both being 3 phase, both are also only 415 volt so I opted to pass as I don't have that option. There is a Startrite 275 going not far from here currently at £199 and it has the 3hp 240/415v 3 phase motor so I'm tempted. No side tables and its obviously showing its age. But since I could have it running for maybe under £300 it might just fall into the truck.
 

Sheptonphil

Scrumpy junkie
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Messages
961
Reaction score
41
Location
Somerset
I was close to picking up a Wadkin AGS10/12 and a Wadkin 9BGS in Leicester for £600, but despite both being 3 phase, both are also only 415 volt so I opted to pass as I don't have that option. There is a Startrite 275 going not far from here currently at £199 and it has the 3hp 240/415v 3 phase motor so I'm tempted. No side tables and its obviously showing its age. But since I could have it running for maybe under £300 it might just fall into the truck.
All three phase is 415v. You can get an inverter to run one or more three phase machines off a 240v supply. So the fact it’s 415v shouldn’t put you off. The Startrite is only 240v if run through the VFD as three phase motor will be a 415v motor.

edited to correct autocorrect.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
All three phase is 415v. You can get an inverter to run one or more three phase machines off a 240v supply. So the fact it’s 415v shouldn’t put you off. The Startrite is only 240v if run through the VFD as three phase motor will be a 415v motor.

edited to correct autocorrect.
From my understanding

Some 3 phase motors can be switched between star and delta, so can run at 240v or 415v, but still 3 phase.

A cheap vfd can convert 240v regular to 240v 3 phase, but it can't also bump it up to 415v. That's in the realm of more expensive gear.

A 3 phase motor in star (415v) will run from a vfd, but at a lower power. A 3 phase motor in delta (240v) will run at full tilt from a vfd.

This is why a 3 phase motor that can be switched between star and delta is a nice bonus.

I'm more than happy to be corrected of course.
 

Sheptonphil

Scrumpy junkie
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Messages
961
Reaction score
41
Location
Somerset
Knew it had been done in the past when I had the chance of one, but seemed not as simple as I thought.

Full details here
unless I passed up on this saw needlessly? That’s a great possibility if it was that simple.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Yeah Its easy to assume that all 3 phase must therefore be 415 volt, or that a 3 phase motor that can also run 240v means you could just plug it into the wall 🤣 @Ttrees posts on the subject have been illuminating, especially for the Startrite 275 as he also has one.

This one is currently at £259 and only about half an hour from me so could collect, and was actually owned by @mock before the current owner had it. It's got no side tables but mock did say back in 2016 that the school he got it from had only recently spent £500 on it. So its tempting.

But then I look at this Kity 619 currently for £390 which has extensions for days, a wider fence rail and a sliding table and just regular old 240v albeit on a 16a plug. Not as old as one of the Startrites or AGS 10 or 12 but still by all accounts a solid saw.
 

DBT85

Established Member
Joined
19 Dec 2015
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
105
Location
Pershore, Worcester
Finally the cladding is complete. It started on September the 1st so a little longer than I'd like, but work and a lack of materials stuffed that up!

With all of it I only cut ONE board too short. I don't even know how. It was one of the ones for the rear gable end. I think it should have been 1860mm and I made it 1840mm. Given its location high up and on the backside and to be 90% covered by the barge board, I just nailed the pipper up and put a tiny filler in. I can live with it.

I have 5 full boards left which is fine. If I ever get around to adding the extension (for DX and possibly air :love:) that I have designs on it'll get used then. Lets finish one project before we start the next though eh?

I also cut the fillers needed to go just along the gables which the barge boards will nail to. Without them they'd have had nothing to rest against. That also meant painting the visible edge. With those done I painted the 22x100 I'm using for the barge boards. I only painted them far enough up the 4.8m length for the job, as I've not cut them yet. That is a job for tomorrow.

@MikeG. I do have a question if you don't mind.

As you can see in the below, at the gables I have membrane flapping around in the breeze. When I put up my barge boards tight under the slates a) I assume I'm putting that membrane above the barge board (between the BB and the slate), not behind it and b) Am I filling the inevitable gaps between the BB and the slates with another bead of brown sealant?
 

mikej460

Member
Joined
19 Jan 2019
Messages
12
Reaction score
3
Location
Daventry
The Kity looks in very good order. Either it has had little use and well maintained over the years or the table top has been restored; they are anodised cast aluminium but it does wear off over time and scratches appear. I have had one for years and it is a very good saw but mine is in a sorry state now after 12 years stood in my damp garage :(
 

Latest posts

Top