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DBT85s Workshop - Moved in and now time to fit it out

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Sheptonphil

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My cladding is only 8mm thick, and not tapered. This is how mine worked, over hangs, across the lining and up behind the cladding for an inch or so. Mike’s pictures above show an easy way to make one without ripping anything you’ve built apart. A piece of DPC would form a riser behind cladding.
3DB27DDD-CDAE-4F48-8C3F-BA922A511312.jpeg
 

MikeG.

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No, it's been like that since I made the shed. It's only a temporary door. I'll make a proper one one day.
 

GerryKnowles

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Hi Gary,

I used Fusion 360, its free to use for anything short of actual commercial work. I actually have the entire workshop in a file that (if I find the right version of the file) is scalable so you (or I) can modify it to suit your requirements.
thanks DBT85 will download
 

DBT85

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thanks DBT85 will download
No problem.

Heres the post in the design forum with the links to some of the videos I watched to learn how to use it.

My design ended up being almost entirely scalable by changing some parameters and involved some daft formulas to make it happen but even that was only using a tiny fraction of what it can do.
 

DBT85

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The end of my week at home and I'm happy enough with the progress. There are 2 rows to finish on the back side, 1 on the front and then the gable at the far end. I'm about 5 boards short to do it all :ROFLMAO: . Me covering up those windows has bitten me a little there I think.

Anyway, pentice board in place (I did put with some dpc up behind itbefore continuing to board). I'll be redoing the vertical parts of the door frame as I want to neaten that up and they actually aren't deep enough anyway as its only 1x6 and needs to be nearer 1x7.



Then it was time to cut out the part over the door. Fortunately the wife helped me lift that up otherwise it was going to split. I used an offcut to make a template to test one end and when happy just marked a board appropriately.



The fun of measuring the gable end. I ended up cutting 2 offcuts to the right angle, securing them in place with a screw and then measuring between the tips. Worked great and it turned out that each row was simply 500mm shorter than the one below. That made life a bit easier.



Where we stand for the moment. I'm happier now that it is much better protected than it was at the start of the week. It'll probably be 2 weeks now before I can do much more and of course I need more featheredge and some other bits to finish it all off anyway.
 

DBT85

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Any particular suggestions on locks for the doors? A couple of long throw (do they exist) mortise locks between the doors and a bolt top and bottom of the secondary door?

I'll bend the hinges as Mike suggests which will offer a little more security and I know that if someone wants to get in they will, but if I can make it a noisy affair to do so it would be nice.
 

Yojevol

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I have double doors on my workshop one of which is very seldom used and is bolted top and bottom with old fashioned bolts. The other door is fitted with a lockable push bar. This type of thing So both doors are bolted top and bottom.
On my first workshop I had some hinges fabricated such that the pivot points were well out in front of the doors thus allowing them to be fully folded back against the walls. I don't know whether these are available commercially these days.
Brian
 

AJB Temple

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A very fastidious job. Lovely.

I like to clad the pentice board in lead. I just think it looks nicer.

The twerps who converted the old tithe barn where we currently live had not done this over any of the doors or windows. They presumably thought there was no need to bother as the roof overhang is quite large. But years of rain created leaks and this was why (along with the fact that they fitted terrible, far too narrow plastic guttering with about half the number of brackets needed and dodgy falls).

You have done a lovely job of the cladding. Personally I would have sprayed it, as I am getting lazier as I get older.
 

AJB Temple

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PS, what do you think of the clad fix gadget? I have never used one and never seen one until a thread here last year. I just use a level line (if needed) and knock a couple of nails in a bit as a ledge to prop the boards prior to screwing or nailing.
 

DBT85

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@AJB Temple the cladding tool was invaluable for me. I'm sure others have done good work without one using methods you describe.

I bought it used for £100 and will probably get near the same for it when sold so that's good enough for me.

I'd have sprayed the boards but coverage is less and frankly I've nearly exhausted a 20l tin already and it's only had one coat. The second coat might well be sprayed on as I think rolling it might kill me.

More FE was ordered for delivery on Wednesday so I'll be able to finish the cladding. Doors could be here this coming week (naturally I'm at work for most of it) so by the end of September I'll be covered and secure and able to move on to the inside a bit more.

Priority on Wednesday is some electrical bits in the mild hope my electrician actually turns up. Next week. If not I'm in the joyous position of "my electrician told me to do this and never came back" which I know other electricians hear all the time.
 

DBT85

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Well, the electrician is indeed coming on Monday to do the bulk of the work. While he's there we can discuss 16a socket options. I'd like one in the floor in the hopes of one day putting a saw there but I'm not 100% sure on where it would go, nor if I can even get a 16a socket into a floor box. Failing that I'll see if we can be sure to have room to fit some later if I want to. I have desires to build an extension to house a DX at some point but we'll have to see about that. Still got to pay for all this!

The doors arrived today also. I've only seen a photo as I'm away but they look nice and I'm looking forward to getting them up. Hinges and some bolts are coming Monday along with some more 25x100 and 25x200 I need and the chipboard flooring.

Still not decide on actual locks yet, or door handles 🤣
 

flying haggis

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what size is your floor box/ you might need to use a panel mounted socket on a blank plate if you have a small floor box
 

DBT85

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what size is your floor box/ you might need to use a panel mounted socket on a blank plate if you have a small floor box
I've not bought one yet. It would at most be able to be 80mm deep once insulation and chipboard are down.

I'm sure most don't have them in the floor and cope just fine.
 

MikeG.

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Surely you just unscrew a lightbulb and screw an extension into the bulb holder to run your machines and power tools?

Well, if it was good enough for my dad.......... :)
 

flying haggis

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I've not bought one yet. It would at most be able to be 80mm deep once insulation and chipboard are down.

I'm sure most don't have them in the floor and cope just fine.
i dont think most floor boxes will allow a ceeform 16a plug to be plugged in and then the lid shut. normal 13a plugs should be fine but perhaps now is the time to think about an alternative
 
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