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nitram

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Hello new to the forum and scroll sawing and hope some experts can help me with a new project I am starting.
I need to cut out pierced steel pointer hands for an old barometer that I am restoring. The metal ideally would be gauge plate (like silver steel but ground flat) and about 1.5mm thick. (It's a bit tougher than ordinary mild steel and can be heat treated too).
Will I be able to cut quite tight profiles (and pierced ones too) using a suitable scroll saw and metal cutting blades?
Would I be able to do them on a 'budget' scroll saw (say £150 ish) or would I need a more professional model and what would I need to look for bearing in mind I would have to thread the blade through for the pierced internal profiles.?
I have used a scroll saw before but only for profiling wood shapes which didn't demand any tight dimensions and profiles.
Will the metal sheet need sandwiching between some wood to keep it flat whilst cutting or will it be sufficiently rigid to cut directly?
Thank you and hope you can help me and look forward to your advice.
 

Chippygeoff

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I have never cut metal on my scroll saws so I cannot comment on blade choice but if you look up Mikes workshop and look at the flying dutchman blades he has metal cutting blades. You can also send him an e-mail asking for his advice and there is no one better to answer your question than Mike. The advice I would offer though is that when cutting metal have a false tale on top of the scroll saw table, this can be a piece of formica or something like a piece of 18mm melamine board. You can clamp it to the scroll saw table or fit batten to the edges like a lip. Drill a fine hole a little bigger than the blade width for the blade and you will be fine.

Geoff
 

nitram

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Hi Geoff
Thanks for your response.
Have emailed Mike's Workshop and asked him for some advice.
 

scroller frank

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Like Geoff , i haven't cut steel , but i have cut a lot of aluminium,
and although , "they" sugest using a fine tooth blade , i find about a no9 with not too many teeth is much better , i find that the finer teeth blades clog up with the swarf, also i lubricate the blade with a waxy oily stick lube , can't think of the name right now !!!! , but i got it on ebay .even with the lube on the coarser blade ,you will have to stop and clean the swarf then re lube the blade ! :D

I am shure Mike will be able to 'sort you out '


all the best ------------Frank -------------
 

Woodchips2

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nitram":2iff0vu2 said:
Hello new to the forum and scroll sawing and hope some experts can help me with a new project I am starting.
I need to cut out pierced steel pointer hands for an old barometer that I am restoring. The metal ideally would be gauge plate (like silver steel but ground flat) and about 1.5mm thick. (It's a bit tougher than ordinary mild steel and can be heat treated too).
Will I be able to cut quite tight profiles (and pierced ones too) using a suitable scroll saw and metal cutting blades?
Would I be able to do them on a 'budget' scroll saw (say £150 ish) or would I need a more professional model and what would I need to look for bearing in mind I would have to thread the blade through for the pierced internal profiles.?
I have used a scroll saw before but only for profiling wood shapes which didn't demand any tight dimensions and profiles.
Will the metal sheet need sandwiching between some wood to keep it flat whilst cutting or will it be sufficiently rigid to cut directly?
Thank you and hope you can help me and look forward to your advice.
I saw a demonstrator at 'Art in Action' last year cutting clock hands using a piercing saw. Worth trying to save you a lot of money if you just need a scroll saw for this job.
Regards Keith
 

nitram

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Hi thanks for your replies.
Did the demonstrator that Keith mentions manage to cut the hands out ok and if by any chance he knows where I might contact him to ask him a few questions?
I contacted Mike's Workshop from my mobile phone and the predictive texting substituted 'front' instead of 'fast' reply and hence Mike giving up on me! Hope he doesn't just yet!
Will have a look around for a pinless scrollsaw and get some suitable blades from Mike.
Does the Axminster Hegner lookalike use pinless blades? Saw one on ebay for sale.
Thanks.
 

Mike M

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Dave,
Got your email. That was a misunderstaning on my part.
Hope someone can remove my post.
How do you remove a post?
FD Mike
 

hawkinob

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Hi,
"Does the Axminster Hegner lookalike use pinless blades? Saw one on ebay for sale."

If it, the Axminster, is a Hegner 'lookalike', I believe it is - from it's picture - then yes it takes pinless blades. I believe it's description, on the Axminster website, says it does too.
Bob H.
 

Harbo

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Hi Mike

I have some of your metal cutting blades:
ones for brass
ones for Aluminium
Jewellers piercing ones

I will also need to cut through some thin gauge plate to make some clock hands, will any of the above work OK?

I think only the Mods can remove posts but you can always edit/modify your own by clicking on it when logged in?

Rod
 

Mike M

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Hi Rod,
The jeweler blade is a very tinny one and does not work in brass.
It is more for thin very soft metal, like silver.
FD Mike
 

Woodchips2

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nitram":2ijmguaz said:
Hi thanks for your replies.
Did the demonstrator that Keith mentions manage to cut the hands out ok and if by any chance he knows where I might contact him to ask him a few questions?
I contacted Mike's Workshop from my mobile phone and the predictive texting substituted 'front' instead of 'fast' reply and hence Mike giving up on me! Hope he doesn't just yet!
Will have a look around for a pinless scrollsaw and get some suitable blades from Mike.
Does the Axminster Hegner lookalike use pinless blades? Saw one on ebay for sale.
Thanks.
Hi nitram
The guy made clocks and the hands he made were very good but I haven't got a name, sorry. Maybe borrow a book from the library on clock-making and see what they recommend. I once did a service on an antique regulator wall-clock from following instructions from a library book and wonder of wonders it went back together and kept very accurate time!

A neighbour of mine repaired clocks as a hobby and he bought a single speed Hegner but he found it wasn't suitable for his needs and sold it to me! Maybe a variable speed scroll saw is needed.

Alternatively have you got a model railway club in your area that could give you advice. These guys seem to make fantastic models out of bits of scrap metal so will be used to cutting intricate shapes.

Best of luck.

Regards Keith
 

Harbo

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I use a variable speed Hegner for cutting out my brass clock wheels - the spokes that is , not the gears:



Rod
 

nitram

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Thank you for all the advice. Have been in touch with Mike about FD blades and he is sending some suitable samples for me to have a go with. Will let you know how it goes!
 

boo

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Harbo":3g0igb85 said:
I use a variable speed Hegner for cutting out my brass clock wheels - the spokes that is , not the gears:

What are the "awls" for ?

Boo
 

Harbo

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Top one is a burniser.
Below it is a scraper.
Used for polishing the brass.

Rod
 
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