Constructing an Engineers toolbox

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I sometimes make boxes / drawers for a busy joinery shop. One on the simplest ways is to use 6mm ply for 2 sides and 12/15/18mm for the other 2. That way you still have a reasonably light construction but a thicker glueline and a thicker section to pin or screw into.

No rebating works fine but it is worth making a jig to clamp securely or you will struggle with getting good joints. Its best to make the ends a tad proud and sand flush, better than being underflush and then sanding through the veneer face.

If you decide to rebate, it is easiest to do the machining with larger panels of multiple drawer components then strip up to single parts.

The drawers arent very big, even 6mm ply will be very strong. Maybe glue in some little fillets to increase gluing area if you want to increase strength arounf the bottom.

Have you looked at layered foam inserts for the tools?

http://www.lifehacker.co.uk/2015/02/19/ ... tool-chest
 
Hi Robin ,thank you for responding its much appreciated. You clearly have practical experience of box making so your advice is especially welcome.

i like your suggestion of using 6mm sides and 12mm+ for the front and back to increase the rebate glue area ....makes perfect sense.
It had not escaped my notice that many chest of drawers are built this way and I have been searching all day for a suitable pine chest to buy and break up but they all seem to be 12-18mm construction.

I have found someone selling hardwood strips 8mm thick which would be fine for the sides of the drawers . Being hardwood they might also be ok for the drawer backs also. The strips are planed 4x sides and are the correct width so I can use them as is which will save a lot of work hopefully

A jig sounds like a very good idea as the drawers will all be the same size . it will save me struggling and getting glue all over the place . This is all new to me so I'll do some searching on youtube for some tutorials.
I am sure I'll make plenty of mistakes but thats ok.... its how we learn . :wink: I'll probably make a trial drawer to practice on so.

Thanks for the link for the layered inserts they look like just the job. I'll order up a sample to try out .

If you get a moment i'd love to see some pics of some of your boxes.
Johnny
 
A most basic jig starts with a board of 18mm sheet material about 2'0 square.

Mark the outline of your drawer on it.

Screw on some 2x2 or similar around 3 sides of the drawer outline.

Put in your drawer sides and front n back. Cut a pair of spacers (drawer side section or similar) and use to wedge the drawer tight. Screw or pin together. If when you screw your battens on so that there is a gap at the corners uou can assemble all 4 votnrr of the drawer.
 
thanks I'll construct one. What happens to any excess glue that is squeezed out of the joints ? how do you remove the glue when you release the drawer frame from the jig ? oh presumably you can wipe it off if the corners of the jig are left open yes?

Found some good ideas for building a mini lifting trimmer router tables on youtube which I'll also try constructing.

This layered foam looks like the stuff in the video ...I'll order some up and try it out. Thanks for the tip ..excellent idea
http://www.toolovation.co.uk/category_s/99.htm
 
RobinBHM":1z0365hn said:
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If you decide to rebate, it is easiest to do the machining with larger panels of multiple drawer components then strip up to single parts.

The drawers arent very big, even 6mm ply will be very strong. Maybe glue in some little fillets to increase gluing area if you want to increase strength arounf the bottom.
I missed this bit previously. I was hoping to be able to clamp the 4 or 5 fronts /sides/backs together and rout them all at once if I use hardwood strips bt if I end up using pluywood would you recommend I rout the rebates first then cut the sheet into strips or the other way round . good idea about a fillet of glue in the corners. I've seen many old drawers with glue fillets over the years
 
Appreciate that the timber yard maybe a trip away but it looks like you are planning some more projects in the future, it would probably pay dividends to get friendly with them.
Many will offer a cutting service so you can load it in the car, ask for a discount or a cash account as you will be purchasing in the future. Most places are friendly and helpful these days to non trade customers.
Good luck with the box and drawers, let us have some pics.

As you said I would start with one drawer as a trial, if it turns out well use it, if not take it as part of the learning process because the next one will be better. Once you have the drawer making process sorted make the cabinet and size the drawers to it. What are you planning for runners?


P.S. Try not to take offence at peoples posts, this forum is great, you will get the help you need, just some people have different sense of humour or a different way of helping.
 
thanks for your advice. i guess i started off on the wrong foot by making a silly joke which backfired on me. i'm very practical really.

I am still looking at the possibility of buying some offcut 8mm hardwood strips for the drawers which are already cut to the depth I need but I've not heard back from the seller yet. if not.... I have decided to buy a full sheet of Birch ply in 12mm and make all the drawers ,trays and main box out of that. 12mm will be nice and strong and will give me plenty of leeway for my less than perfect rebateing :lol: I'll use 5.5mm ply for the drawer and tray bases and possibly the back of the cabinet .

I'm still drawing lots of doodles agonising over how many drawers to have and how many lift out trays etc and making sure everything will fit and work as I want.
When I get started I intend to do a vlog and I will probably start a project thread on here if that doesn't attract too much negativity . :wink:
Thanks for the support its much appreciated
 
johnny":6bhvoz0f said:
OK guys I can see where this is going .
You are now being insulting about me and my chosen lifelong profession

I'm not going to rise to the bait I'm afraid. You'll have to go and troll somewhere else. :lol:


The question that I put at the start of this thread has now been answered fully to my satisifaction and I am not going to allow one or two idiots to spoil my anticipation, and excitement about this project . I've looked forward to it for a long time now and its important to me .

I'm sorry but what was said about your "real world miscalculation" for want of a better word regarding the bench was accurate as you stated "bench" and "one 18 stone person". If you had left it at "chair" the second statement would have been fine but benches are designed for two or more people so a weight limit of just 18 stone just won't be adequate; and THAT is what was being pointed out. Also at NO POINT was there any disparaging remarks regarding the profession in question, just your use of it in one particular hypothetical scenario, which is entirely different.

Ok the wording wasn't as good as it might have been, but you've already been snippy yourself from the first page saying that "people can't answer a simple question" when the picture you provided was different from what is displayed now and we have NO WAY of knowing if that isn't THE EXACT design you intend to follow, and this is on top of saying "this is MY FIRST ATTEMPT" at carpentry.

So forgive us for first stating we think it's too much for you as a FIRST PROJECT, then as a passing comment correcting you on your "bench" weight limit error - but in both cases the advice was CORRECT.

Don't expect people to read your mind and understand the difference between what you state and what you actually mean, and and as with all advice expect some of it to be tangenital, but dont ever call any of it trolling, as that is a DELIBERATE attempt to get a rise from a person, and 99% of the time it's given honestly; however you take it your end.
 
Here's a picture of some two pound coins Johnny. Take from it what you will. Good luck with the chest, hope it goes well.
VYxrbOd.jpg
 
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