kentish steve
Member
has anyone got or ever owned a startrite super 260 combination machine
combination machines
- Thread starter kentish steve
- Start date
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Wildman
Established Member
yes, someone has, hee hee
kentish steve
Member
any good ?
Sadly, not quite got room even for the smaller Startrite, so have to make do with an older Lurem. As a generalisation, I reckon universals are the way to go for most amateurs, but others seem wildly agin them.
blackrodd
Established Member
Until someone comes along,knowing more than me, I don't know anything about these, but Being a Startrite would be a plus for me,
I read that they were sold as Robland x 260 previously.
Here's a link to the manual for a robland x 260, and it all seems to read very well.
The startrite manual is available, will have to be paid for.
Regards Rodders
startrite-super-260-t70422.html
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/X31/Manuals/x31.pdf
I read that they were sold as Robland x 260 previously.
Here's a link to the manual for a robland x 260, and it all seems to read very well.
The startrite manual is available, will have to be paid for.
Regards Rodders
startrite-super-260-t70422.html
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/X31/Manuals/x31.pdf
beech1948
Established Member
The main issue with combo machines is that people expect a reduction in size of area used by the machine. The machine footprint is smaller but the envelope it needs to work in is not.
If you need to plane/saw/mould an 8ft/2.4m long piece then you still need 8ft before and after the end of the blades. Similsrly you may save a bit of space in width but if you plane an 8ftx8 in plank then you will need a 9ft space to turn it round and over.
So for 8 footers you need 16ft 6 inches by 10ft ish.
My felder uses up 5x4meters of space.
If you need to plane/saw/mould an 8ft/2.4m long piece then you still need 8ft before and after the end of the blades. Similsrly you may save a bit of space in width but if you plane an 8ftx8 in plank then you will need a 9ft space to turn it round and over.
So for 8 footers you need 16ft 6 inches by 10ft ish.
My felder uses up 5x4meters of space.
blackrodd
Established Member
beech1948":3rp4a7lg said:
But surely uses less space than 4 separate machines, each needing 8 feet before the machine , and 8 feet after?
Rodders
The 'fore and aft' problem can be lessened if you put the machine near a door.
Most times you won't be ripping and planing long stock, so this isn't a deal-breaker.
But if it comes with a slot mortiser, you won't be able to put it against a wall and it will require
a lot of lateral space.
Most times you won't be ripping and planing long stock, so this isn't a deal-breaker.
But if it comes with a slot mortiser, you won't be able to put it against a wall and it will require
a lot of lateral space.
beech1948
Established Member
First my examples were just that examples. IF you want to cut 8ft long bits you need at least 16ft 6in.
Yes you could open a door and have the combo near the door....except when its raining, snowing, blowing etc.
I tried to say a combo will take up less physicaL space than separates. I agree. BUT the work envelope will still be there.
If you will never cut a piece over say 5ft then a 10ft space will suffice. For longer pieces you will need to move the combo so a wheel kit might be in order.
First decide what the largest type of job you will need to provide for is and then measure up.
I have a Felder combo and rejected separates some 17 years ago and have not been disappointed but I have provided a 5x4 m space for it.
Once or twice a year I need to cut a piece over 14ft long so I move my bandsaw on its wheel kit out of the way, open the workshop door and get it done.
If you are setting up a workshop from scratch then maybe think a bit. If the space is smallish as many are then maybe a bandsaw +planer thicknesser + a bench will suffice for a while until you settle into a pattern of work. Bandsaws are really good ( If tuned up) for ripping boards and small cross cuts.
Yes you could open a door and have the combo near the door....except when its raining, snowing, blowing etc.
I tried to say a combo will take up less physicaL space than separates. I agree. BUT the work envelope will still be there.
If you will never cut a piece over say 5ft then a 10ft space will suffice. For longer pieces you will need to move the combo so a wheel kit might be in order.
First decide what the largest type of job you will need to provide for is and then measure up.
I have a Felder combo and rejected separates some 17 years ago and have not been disappointed but I have provided a 5x4 m space for it.
Once or twice a year I need to cut a piece over 14ft long so I move my bandsaw on its wheel kit out of the way, open the workshop door and get it done.
If you are setting up a workshop from scratch then maybe think a bit. If the space is smallish as many are then maybe a bandsaw +planer thicknesser + a bench will suffice for a while until you settle into a pattern of work. Bandsaws are really good ( If tuned up) for ripping boards and small cross cuts.
custard
Established Member
beech1948":3dymjgt8 said:
I use a Felder CF741 combination machine as even in an 80 square metre workshop separates wouldn't quite fit in without compromising the space available for timber storage, glue ups, and other machinery.
It works out okay, but in a bigger workshop I'd certainly have separates. The main compromises are,
-spindle moulder set ups are often fairly elaborate affairs, especially as I use a power feed whenever possible. It'll often take 45 minutes or longer to set up for a spindle moulder operation that'll only take 2 minutes to complete. The set up time would be just as long on a separate machine but it would be possible to then leave it set up in case you subsequently need another component, however on a combination machine using the spindle moulder takes the panel saw out of commission, so you tend to break down a spindle set up immediately after using it and run more spare components than you actually need, if you're working in highly figured or exotic timbers that's wasteful and expensive.
-The same fence is used for planing and ripping, so you have to dismantle it and carry it around the machine to go from one function to another. Consequently I tend to use the bandsaw for more rip cuts than I probably should!
-More seriously the planing fence has to be anchored in a sub optimal location, ideally the anchor point would be much closer to the axis of the planer block.
-You're limited on rip cut capacity, and even to achieve the theoretical capacity you have to adjust the planer in feed table and remove the planer guard.
Combination machines just about win out on balance for single person workshops that are making fewer, higher value items. In multi person workshops or with high volume production they're a non starter.
blackrodd
Established Member
I have a Felder combo and rejected separates some 17 years ago and have not been disappointed but I have provided a 5x4 m space for it. (Quote beech1948)
A combination machine will take up less space than 3 separate machines is the answer.
As Mr Custard says, set ups and shared components can be a pain, and a down side.
An added bonus would be a set of locking wheels, giving easy width or length access.
The space needed around it will be dependent on what you are making and the component sizes.
Allowing 5 mtrs free space around any machine just in case you need to make something door sized is not an option for some.
Regards Rodders
A combination machine will take up less space than 3 separate machines is the answer.
As Mr Custard says, set ups and shared components can be a pain, and a down side.
An added bonus would be a set of locking wheels, giving easy width or length access.
The space needed around it will be dependent on what you are making and the component sizes.
Allowing 5 mtrs free space around any machine just in case you need to make something door sized is not an option for some.
Regards Rodders
Wildman
Established Member
My coronet major is a fantastic multipurpose machine the footprint is small but facilities huge and the swivel head allows me to turn it to optimum position for whatever function I am using. Sheet material is handled with a circular saw or jigsaw until it's small enough for the width available. length is no problem and can pass a 4.2 through the saw or planer one space does all and many other machine work surfaces are at the same level so each adds extra support to each machine. Most space issues can be solved with hand tools or working outside. Mind you I do work in a very cluttered workshop so used to not having space.
Installing the Lurem in a 12ft by 8ft shed (really couldn't call it a workshop) worked by having it lined up with door in one long wall and window in opposite wall. Plus wheels on one end and lifting carriage sribbed from the Start time design.
kentish steve
Member
I have a workshop space of 12ftx36ft 3 stables with the dividing walls removed, so I think space will be fine but I wanted to know if the startrite super 260 was a decent machine I've been looking at fielders for around 2k but the startrite is 1k upwards are they much of an inferior machine to the fielders and also does anyone have any advice apart from space as to what to consider when purchasing a combination machine
blackrodd
Established Member
kentish steve":2oypru6v said:
Sorry you're first post hasn't actually been answered on the Startrite super 260,
I can't find any reviews on either version, as I mentioned in the 3rd post, personally, I would be pleased that
there were no shock or horror stories on them.
Regards Rodders
There were some reviews in Woodworker and other mags back in the 70s or 80s, but haven't seen anything recent. That said, have looked at and tried a couple of the smaller 210s and would buy one like a shot IF I had the extra bit of space. The 210 looks excellent value s/h - three motors, should run off a 13A supply and built like a battleship. Would expect the 260 to be similar, but not sure if the larger capacity comes with bigger motors and so may need 3-phase or 16A supply.
HTH
HTH
kentish steve
Member
Yeah I've seen one for sale that is 3 phase with 3 2.2kw motors
custard
Established Member
There'll be examples out there that have been mollycoddled and examples that have been hammered. Ideally you want to see it operating and check that it's working to the standards that you require for your work. The machine that can churn out basic joinery components might not be up to fine furniture with more exacting tolerances. I appreciate there's a view that says cast iron lumps run forever. I'm not totally convinced, in particular it's the ancillaries like sliding tables and fences that often suffer wear and abuse, and can land you in a world of frustrating inaccuracy if you're planning on precision projects.
Cut some MDF, or better still get a clock on it and check the fence/sliding table is running square to the axis of travel, check the run out on the spindle moulder and the saw, check how flat the tables are, check the thicknesser is producing an even thickness across it's full width. Check it's reasonably compatible with your extraction arrangements. Make sure the guarding and fences are what you personally need, for example you might do most of your copy shaping on a router table and have no need of the spindle moulder for this, but if you want the higher finish quality that spindle copying brings then you'll want a machine that comes with a ring fence. In the same vein check what spindle tooling comes with the machine, it's easy to spend serious money on spindle tooling, so it's a a big plus if you get a decent quality basic selection of spindle tooling like tenoning heads, rebate block, profile block, and a couple of groovers or a wobble saw.
Good luck.
Cut some MDF, or better still get a clock on it and check the fence/sliding table is running square to the axis of travel, check the run out on the spindle moulder and the saw, check how flat the tables are, check the thicknesser is producing an even thickness across it's full width. Check it's reasonably compatible with your extraction arrangements. Make sure the guarding and fences are what you personally need, for example you might do most of your copy shaping on a router table and have no need of the spindle moulder for this, but if you want the higher finish quality that spindle copying brings then you'll want a machine that comes with a ring fence. In the same vein check what spindle tooling comes with the machine, it's easy to spend serious money on spindle tooling, so it's a a big plus if you get a decent quality basic selection of spindle tooling like tenoning heads, rebate block, profile block, and a couple of groovers or a wobble saw.
Good luck.
