cleaning gunge of oil stone any tips

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mac1012

Established Member
Joined
28 Oct 2011
Messages
670
Reaction score
0
Location
chesterfield
I have been using a large oil stone I found in my tool box with fairly good results for me anyway

the surface has got a bit gunged up has anyone any tips on how to get it off ?

I read somewhere that dry cleaning fluid works but I anticipate some of you seasoned woodworkers may have some usefull methods 8) 8)

I have been using some 3 in one oil as a lubricant when sharpening and wondered if that is ok to use or should I be using something else

mark
 
Put in the dishwasher (whilst better-half is not about) or boil in water with detergent and old rags.
 
mac1012":fe920j30 said:
I have been using a large oil stone I found in my tool box with fairly good results for me anyway

the surface has got a bit gunged up has anyone any tips on how to get it off ?

I read somewhere that dry cleaning fluid works but I anticipate some of you seasoned woodworkers may have some usefull methods 8) 8)

I have been using some 3 in one oil as a lubricant when sharpening and wondered if that is ok to use or should I be using something else

mark

Mix driveway degreaser to the recommended strength in a mop bucket. Dump the stone in the bucket. In two days it will be stripped, and I mean stripped, of all old oil. Rinse thoroughly and scrub lightly with a soft bristle brush.
 
When I needed to do this I looked on the net, what came up was to boil it in an old tin and add some baking powder (possibly from 'Norse Woodsmith'), it certainly works - had a stone that belonged to my grandad, couldn't tell that it was a combination until it had been cleaned!

Cheerio,

Carl
 
Depending on what it's 'gunged' with, any solvent for that gunge should clean it. An oilstone that has been used with oil should therefore clean up with nicely if left to soak for a day or two in white spirit, petrol or similar, then left for a day or two for the spirit that has soaked into the stone to dry out of it again. I'd be tempted to give the stone a good soak in thin oil afterwards, and it should then be fine.

Maybe once it's cleaned, it might be a good opportunity to true up it's working faces if they need it. The old way was a flat stone or glass plate and sharp sand, but I suspect a few sheets of coarse wet-and-dry on glass and lubricated with water would be quicker. That'll also take off any glazed abrasive partices, exposing fresh abrasive and making the stone faster-cutting. (If you do flatten it, do so before re-soaking it in oil, or things could get messy on the wet-and-dry!)

I've heard the 'boiling' method mentioned a few times, but one source I read years ago said this should be done with care. Place the stone on a bed of rags in a pot of COLD water, then bring to the boil and allow to simmer until the scum doesn't seem to be getting any thicker. Then remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature naturally. You don't want to 'thermally shock' the stone - that could well crack it.

We had a bit of a discussion about suitable oils for oilstones a few weeks ago. The conclusion was that any thin mineral oil will do; 3-in-1 is fine, but baby oil is just as good, and about half the price. Wiping off the blackened oil (the blackening is the metal particles ground off the tool being sharpened) at the end of each day helps to prolong life between cleans. Using the stone without oil tends to 'glaze' it with metal particles forced between the abrasive grains.

Natural oilstones (Arkansas, slates etc) tend to be non-porous, so a surface clean would be all the needed to restore them (plus any flattening that may be thought necessary - wet and dry again). They can also be used with a wider variety of oils, including vegetable oils, since these can be wiped off and don't impregnate the stone and go rancid, which they will do with the porous man-made stones. Olive oil used to be the recommended lubricant back in the days of Turkey, Charnley Forest and Welsh Slate stones.
 
G S Haydon":2262t2m2 said:
+1 on baby oil.

If I remember correctly, it is you that should have the credit for the suggestion, GS.

I tried baby oil on my old India combination stone the other day. Works a treat - though I'm not quite so sold on the pink-topped bottle Boots supplied it in!
 
No way CC, it has all been done before, I'm sure I noted it from somewhere else, no need for any credit. Yeah, you have to be comfortable in your own skin to work with a bottle of baby oil by your side :)
 
I'd just use it - with white spirit, paraffin etc. until it's clean enough for oil. Haven't tried baby oil - I'll have a go next time I come across a baby.
If necessary (quite often) I freshen the surface with a 3m Diapad. They are a bit bendy so you don't have to flatten the stone.
Rare-earth magnet good for removing swarf.
 
mod edit:
deleted posts for petty bickering and winding up. if you have nothing USEFUL to offer the OP then please move on.
If you have a useful alternative, then please contribute. Have a nice day :)

apologies to any useful replies that got caught in the net.
 
My dear old dad kept his oil stones in a tin, half full of parafin, wiv a decent dash of oil, I can always remember how his stones always seemed to "cut" really well when using them. Regards Rodders
 
I remember when I was an apprentice being told to boil it in the oven but cannot remember the additive to the water. That said we used to use diesel as a universal cleaning product for all things oily!

I am interested to know why baby oil works?
 
PAC1":22tmmomw said:
I am interested to know why baby oil works?

It's a light mineral oil. According to the blurb on my bottle, the ingredients are "Paraffinum Liquidum, Isopropyl Palminate and Parfum". The 'parfum' is pretty mild as parfums go, and I've no idea what the isopropyl palminate does. It's also 'hypoallergenic and dermatologically tested' apparently - so better for the old digits than a dose of diesel.

My bottle cost me £4-25 in Boots, and contains 500ml. A brief and unscientific search showed 3-in-1 oil at £3-95 for 100ml at Axi, and £2-25 for 100ml in Wilkinson's, so the baby oil works out significantly cheaper. I daresay a gallon of paraffin (or lamp oil) would be cheaper again.
 
Cheshirechappie":1900cuhw said:
PAC1":1900cuhw said:
I am interested to know why baby oil works?

It's a light mineral oil. According to the blurb on my bottle, the ingredients are "Paraffinum Liquidum, Isopropyl Palminate and Parfum". The 'parfum' is pretty mild as parfums go, and I've no idea what the isopropyl palminate does. It's also 'hypoallergenic and dermatologically tested' apparently - so better for the old digits than a dose of diesel.

My bottle cost me £4-25 in Boots, and contains 500ml. A brief and unscientific search showed 3-in-1 oil at £3-95 for 100ml at Axi, and £2-25 for 100ml in Wilkinson's, so the baby oil works out significantly cheaper. I daresay a gallon of paraffin (or lamp oil) would be cheaper again.
It's just a thickening agent

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_palmitate
 
Cheshirechappie":3m4qla7x said:
PAC1":3m4qla7x said:
I am interested to know why baby oil works?

It's a light mineral oil. According to the blurb on my bottle, the ingredients are "Paraffinum Liquidum, Isopropyl Palminate and Parfum". The 'parfum' is pretty mild as parfums go, and I've no idea what the isopropyl palminate does. It's also 'hypoallergenic and dermatologically tested' apparently - so better for the old digits than a dose of diesel.

My bottle cost me £4-25 in Boots, and contains 500ml. A brief and unscientific search showed 3-in-1 oil at £3-95 for 100ml at Axi, and £2-25 for 100ml in Wilkinson's, so the baby oil works out significantly cheaper. I daresay a gallon of paraffin (or lamp oil) would be cheaper again.


Mine costs 99p for 300ml in Aldi. Mind you, I go through about two bottles a week! :shock:

All the best.
Adam
 

Latest posts

Back
Top