Choosing lathe advice, tail stock slop?

[Tetsuaiga]

I am looking at buying a lathe, its probably a choice between Jet and Axminster.

I went into a store and noticed when not tightened down the tailstock on different models would move side to side or off angle very slightly. I wound the tailstock barrel out to exaggerate the movement.

I generally found the Axminster had a little more slop.

Can anyone with experience tell me how important this is? I'm planning on doing some long boring so I would imagine the tailstock changing its orientation is bad news. Unless maybe when you tighten down it moves it back, playing with them it didn't see as though it did.



Thanks

 

[Sheptonphil]

I've had Axminster 1416vs and 1628vs lathes, and currently have a Jet 3520b lathe and have never had sideways slop on any of them. What lathes have you found to be wanting?

Phil

 

[woodpig]

Tail stock slop as you put it is not uncommon on some cheaper lathes. Ive got an Axminater 1416VS and its spot on with no slop. Have you had a look at any of the Record lathes?

 

[Tetsuaiga]

It was the all the jet mini one's up to the 1440, then the axminster trade AT1416VS and AT1628VS.

I would repeat if was only when the tail stock wasn't locked down and probably under a mm wiggle.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Not looked at the records yet, for some reason I felt they didn't look so great, might be worth another look.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Some of the records look interesting but I've heard the twin bar system may not be so good.

 

[CHJ]

Slop in tailstock when not locked down is of no consequence at all.

What is important is that the tailstock quill and the headstock spindle are in alignment when locked down in any position you are likely to want to drill or work with tailstock mounted tools.

If you are just into spindle turning without a need for tailstock mounted drilling then the alignment of both is not super critical because turning between centres naturally runs true.

For any work that involves tailstock mounted tools, drills etc. the tailstock alignment in all planes is critical to accurate sizing and alignment.

If the lathe has rotatable headstock it likewise needs to have a good prime axis indent built in to ensure return to bed alignment.

Slop in either moveable component when not locked down is not pretty but of no consequence as long as it's good in working mode.

If talking good alignment the mounting of the lathe on its stand or bench is just as critical as long lathe beds can twist, bar or tube types more prone than solid cast if not correctly supported.

My heavy Poolwood (long bar bed) has a relatively poor tailstock location in its design compounded by the fact the bed moves due to both the effects of moisture in the bench dependant on season and sunlight shining on it through the large south facing window. Neither did it have headstock indent capability as manufactured. Checking critical alignment when the need is paramount is just an additional chore that manifest itself occasionally.

 

[woodpig]

It was the all the jet mini one's up to the 1440, then the axminster trade AT1416VS and AT1628VS.

I would repeat if was only when the tail stock wasn't locked down and probably under a mm wiggle.

On a well made lathe there should be barely any wiggle with it unlocked. There should be just enough clearance between the bed and the tail stock for it to slide easily. Very noticeable slop means the tail stock can be locked in any number of different positions which isn't good. Being limited to what type of turning you do by having a poorly made lathe is unacceptable. I repeat, my AT1416VS is very good in this regard and was the first thing I checked when I bought it as the slop on my previous old Axminster lathe (budget model) was very poor. When I lock the tail stock it locks up in the same place every time with the centres aligned.

I expected the AT1416VS to be good in this respect as its a trade (more expensive!) model. I'm interested, do any of you other AT1416VS owners out there have problems with you tail stock?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My Poolewood (28 - 40) has an alignment pin ... which aligns it it about an 1/8th of an inch out of line.

Incidentally, I cut a small 1mm groove across the base and the headstock with 1mm disc in an angle grinder so I can line it up easily.

 

[CHJ]

Mine's one of the 'slightly' lighter weight 28-40's with three phase vari. speed. I fitted a couple of angle brackets suitably drilled in situ that I drop a tapered pin in when needed.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thanks for all your replies.

I'm very keen on buying the Axminster AT1628vs, if not the Jet 1221vs. My only reservation is the play I noticed when visiting the axminster store. I plan to do drilling using augur bits in the tailstock.

I suppose I could buy one and send it back if there's excessive play. It seems CHJ and woodpig have different opinions about whats acceptable in regard to the locked down state. There doesnt seem to be any guiding mechanism so where it is when loose it stays. Perhaps I am being over picky, the tiny movement I noticed was with the tailstock barrel out at full length.

I've also read on this forum that someone said the tailstock on the axminster is designed in such a way that if using a drilling tool you can only get 3/4 travel out of the barrel. Which is something thats thrown me over to looking at the Jets.

The axminster seems a little more versatile and powerful/quieter though.

 

[CHJ]

......I've also read on this forum that someone said the tailstock on the axminster is designed in such a way that if using a drilling tool you can only get 3/4 travel out of the barrel. Which is something thats thrown me over to looking at the Jets.
.....

That is strange, probably dependant upon whether you have a long tanged Morse Taper (pillar drill standard) fitted to your drill chuck, there are short Morse Taper fittings that don't have a tang that should not limit the travel.

On some lathes, mine included the short tapers produce another problem in themselves in that they are not long enough to engage with the ejection screw and I have to extend them by 5-6 mm.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You'll find that the draw on a normal auger is far too quick to use in a tailstock, you need a Forstner or something without a lead screw.

 

[paulm]

You'll find that the draw on a normal auger is far too quick to use in a tailstock, you need a Forstner or something without a lead screw.

Yep, or file off the thread or most of the lead screw so it feeds just with tailstock pressure rather than self feeding.

 

[woodpig]

You can also buy extra long spade bits. I bought a 6mm and 8mm for use on my lathe.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/e ... spade-bits

 

[Tetsuaiga]

It looks like the very best for long boring is gun drills, I may try shell augers, then possibly enlarge.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Have a look for the long hole borer by CHJ. I made a couple by just cutting a slot in the angle of a piece of angle iron so I could braze, heating from underneath. Mine were just butt joints and I've never had a problem with them. 5/16th or 3/8th? - make sure it's compatible with your centres.

 

[CHJ]

Spur Twist Drill long hole borer

This was made by turning a tenon on the drill bit and a socket on the shaft for easier alignment.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thanks for the help, will look into these some more.