Chisel quality ?

[Trigs]

I'm getting fed up of having to regrind chisels because the cutting edges get chipped. I'm using some Axminster chisels just now which sharpen well enough but seem to loose there edge quickly, I'm not particularly careless but it's seems I spend more time sorting the edges than using them. So would a better quality chisel reduce the damage or is this the norm ?

 

[Jacob]

Too fine an angle? Should hone about 30º or a bit more for very narrow ones.
They shouldn't chip at all unless you are doing something very hard (or with nails in). In which case - if hard steel they tend to chip more than if soft. If soft they tend to get nicked - which will look much the same as a chip but is more of a dent than a break. Soft is easier to sharpen.
So it's a compromise - any chisel will do! No need to change them (probably).

PS I've got some Axminster cheapies too. They don't hold an edge for long but they are easy to sharpen - just a quicky, little and often on an oil stone non of this "new sharpening" effin about !

 

[Trigs]

Yeah I'm at 30degrees, now you say it I'm not sure if it's to a chip or a nick, probably the latter

 

[Jacob]

Yeah I'm at 30degrees, now you say it I'm not sure if it's to a chip or a nick, probably the latter

It will be with cheap chisels. Simplest is just to ignore the nicks and just sharpen little and often but without taking the nicks right out.
And think of the money you are saving!

 

[shed9]

Frequent re-grinding is not be typical, even for lower end chisels.

How are you re-grinding and how often? Is there the possible risk of your chisels losing their temper with your grinding method?

 

[Trigs]

Using Japanese water stones..... possible bad batch ? Ive been using them a while though not at regular intervals so hard to judge but it dos seem a lot

 

[undergroundhunter]

What Jacob said.

If you really want to replace them then feel free

 

[bugbear]

I'm getting fed up of having to regrind chisels because the cutting edges get chipped.

Are they getting chipped (pieces breaking out) or burred (region bent over, or dented).

One means too hard, the other means too soft.

BugBear

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Chipping or 'nicking' of chisel edges doesn't often happen during paring work - especially on the normal run of timber; if it happens it's usually during chopping duties. With that in mind, it might be worth increasing the honing angle to 32 or even 35 degrees, and seeing if that alleviates the problem. (If they chip frequently whilst paring with a 30 degree hone angle, there is something wrong; replacements might be a good idea.)

 

[ED65]

What sorts of jobs are you doing with the chisels, are you chopping a fair bit in hard wood? But if you get the same problem using them on pine I'd say it's definitely them and not you!

The steel used in the Axminster chisels is probably of acceptable quality, that's mostly the case these days, it tends to be the heat treating that's a little hit or miss. And too hard or too soft can both be remedied by the user if necessary if you're up for a challenge.

If you'll pardon the pun, to help your edges stay in good nick I would remember the sharpening mantra little and often. I find stropping the best way to do this but you'll probably want to use the finest of your waterstones.

Assuming this helps a bit, I'd soldier on with them for now and as the opportunity arises look to pick up some better ones from Gumtree or a car boot. Secondhand chisels are plentiful and you can sometimes pick up stonking bargains, quality vintage chisels for £1 each or less.

 

[bugbear]

One thing I've seen a couple of times on forums (it's quite rare) is that a wire
edge is being left on the chisel (i.e. the sharpening process isn't properly completed) This feels sharp,
but is very weak indeed, and (worse) when it breaks off it leaves ragged damage on the edge.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

I wouldn't bother with water stones. I know they are very fashionable but they are also very expensive and need flattening with an expensive diamond plate (apparently - I'm not sure why).
The best (I'm told) are shapstones but look at this ludicrously expensive set of kit here https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... tones.html
OK if you are a lab worker (microtome etc) or surgeon, but not needed by a woodworker!

Stick to oil stones - £50 worth will pay for a lifetime of sharpening. Save your dosh. They've worked well for millions of woodworkers over the years.

 

[Trigs]

I usually use them when hanging doors and the occasional mortise, I've just gave one of them a beast of a sharpen so I'll try it it some off cuts from around the shop making various chops and pairing.
I did think of increasing angle so it's good that someone else had the same idea. I have an oil stone that I take on jobs with me for a quick sharpen but in the shop I do prefer the waterstones along with a leather strop.

I'll post an update later tonight after some concious testing

 

[D_W]

If the edge rolls or chips, increase the final edge 2 degrees at a yime until it doesn't. If the result is something you can't live with, then look elsewhere.

Some chisels that require a little extra angle work fine if you sharpen them at a normal bevel but just follow that up wit the lightest rolling of the edge on a slow and fine stone.

If you strop with compound, you're already doing that to some extent.

90% of my chisels prefer about the same angle.

 

[Trigs]

Chopped a few Mortices in some scrap elm, sycamore and redwood. No nicks but they do need a regular sharpen though not sure if it's anymore than an expensive chisel. Think I'll hold off some fancy ones for a while longer

 

[D_W]

Agree with jacob's comments above (paraphrasing) that a chisel that loses its edge quickly but that sharpens quickly, too, isn't the worst thing in the world.

 

[Racers]

So a lead chisel would be good? or if you could get mercury to coalesce you would have a chisel that you could sharpen by pinching the edge 'twixt thumb and forefinger.

:wink: :shock:

Pete

 

[memzey]

In my albeit limited experience I find older, made in Sheffield, cast steel chisels to have the best balance between hard/soft and taking an edge/holding an edge. The newer chisels I have to compare them against are not at the top end of the price quality bracket but then again these old boot fair finds (which rarely cost more than 50p each) are so good I have no incentive to buy the expensive ones. So unless someone wants to lend me their Lie Nielsen's I may never find out!

 

[Racers]

In my albeit limited experience I find older, made in Sheffield, cast steel chisels to have the best balance between hard/soft and taking an edge/holding an edge. The newer chisels I have to compare them against are not at the top end of the price quality bracket but then again these old boot fair finds (which rarely cost more than 50p each) are so good I have no incentive to buy the expensive ones. So unless someone wants to lend me their Lie Nielsen's I may never find out!

+1

All car-boot/Ebay



Pete

 

[Jacob]

So a lead chisel would be good? or if you could get mercury to coalesce you would have a chisel that you could sharpen by pinching the edge 'twixt thumb and forefinger.

:wink: :shock:

Pete

If you think it's viable why don't you try it and let us know how you get on?
Whilst you are at it have a go with a glass chisel - they can be extremely sharp - don't cut yourself!