Chinese spindle motor

[Markvk]

Thinking of getting one of these for my proposed router table:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261234453289? ... fresh=true

Has anyone used one? im concerned with dust entering the holes on top of the spindle.

Mark

 

[flh801978]

I have 2 of those but the water cooled versions...lot quieter and no holes it's simple to connect a small pump to circulate 5 litres of water

 

[Eric The Viking]

Unfortunately the web page comes up as a jumble of HTML and CSS, as they haven't loaded it properly into eBay.

Never mind anything else, I wouldn't be keen on 2.2kw going through that four-pin connector on the back - nasty idea, They were designed in the 1950s and first showed up here on cheap Japanese microphones in the days when Japanese engineering did NOT have a reputation for quality - low voltage and current (and chrome-plated pins, also not good).

There is no provision on either half of the connector for proper isolation at voltages above about 50V. You need to be extremely careful when making off cables that the pins particularly are properly soldered and insulated both from each other and from the case. For the chassis connector I'd want to see: (1) a solid earth of all metalwork (including the body of the motor AND the connector body) with continuity through the cable back to the controller; (2) Hellermann sleeves or heatshrink over every solder bucket at the back.

I have one seven-or-eight-pin version of that connector in a mission-critical application (at microphone level), in a box I made up years ago. One pin is intermittent, and I have never yet been able to track down the problem properly (it never does it with a meter across the pins!). The clamping ring also doesn't make a good connection.

Frankly that one connector choice tells me all I need to know...
. . .
What on earth is wrong with using one of the cylindrical routers? They're a lot cheaper, they are designed for the job, and standard cutters will fit.

As I said, can't read the seller's eBay page so not sure what the collet size is. You really need one or more of the following:

4mm (unusual but used for inlay work, etc.)
6mm (very unusual)
6.35mm (1/4": very common)
8mm (fairly common, good robust size)
12.7 (1/2" standard big cutter shank)

I'm sure the Chinese thing should work, but it looks like an expensive and risky way to do it. If the motor or controller fails, you have no comeback (for practical purposes), yet your design will depend on a like-for-like replacement.

Regards,

E.

(sorry probably in a bad mood this morning - should be digging holes in the side of the house - a job I hate!).

PS: just seen the note about water cooling - terrifying! If it needs that, how inefficient is the motor, how will it survive if the coolant fails, and how much power is going through that silly connector???

 

[Markvk]

Thanks guys.

What on earth is wrong with using one of the cylindrical routers? They're a lot cheaper, they are designed for the job, and standard cutters will fit.

Eric.

the only one i can find at a reasonable price is from rutlands and its out of stock until the end of april, the dewalt is only 1/4 collet and all of my cutters are 1/2inch. im more than happy to use a standard cylindrical router motor but ive not manged to find one.

These spindles are very common in the CNC world and have a track history. the collet is R20 and excepts holders up to 12.7mm 13 different sizes are available.

Its looking like water cooled is the way to go though, so if you cant point me in the direction of a standard router body thats the way ill go.
maybe im not using the correct search terms?

Mark

 

[Markvk]

I have 2 of those but the water cooled versions...lot quieter and no holes it's simple to connect a small pump to circulate 5 litres of water

Any chance of some photos of your setup?

 

[flh801978]

Well mine are used in a cnc router one in and one as a spare
Its easier to hold as spares as if anything goes wrong i can just slip on the spare ( not needed yet)
The only point of erics post i agree with is the plug and socket
Many people use them as intended but i prefer to remove the socket install a gland and hard wire in a cable with proper earthing
I've been using mine for 3 years must have run for 100's of hours
Dont worry about the watercooling it can be a sealed system and it allows you to run for 24hours continuosly
If i run mine for 60 mins or so i dont bother turning it on
Theres 1000's of these in use in a variety of machines up and down the country
to sum up
they are quiet,reliable,powerfull ,accurate and take all cutters up to 1/2" with cheap <£5 collets
you wont regret buying one

Ian

 

[Markvk]

Well mine are used in a cnc router one in and one as a spare
Its easier to hold as spares as if anything goes wrong i can just slip on the spare ( not needed yet)
The only point of erics post i agree with is the plug and socket
Many people use them as intended but i prefer to remove the socket install a gland and hard wire in a cable with proper earthing
I've been using mine for 3 years must have run for 100's of hours
Dont worry about the watercooling it can be a sealed system and it allows you to run for 24hours continuosly
If i run mine for 60 mins or so i dont bother turning it on
Theres 1000's of these in use in a variety of machines up and down the country
to sum up
they are quiet,reliable,powerfull ,accurate and take all cutters up to 1/2" with cheap <£5 collets
you wont regret buying one

Ian

Thanks Ian, its next on my purchase list, I'm an electrician, I wouldn't have left the connector on anyway. I can mount the vfd remotely and use it to control the speed of all sorts of things once you take off the cost of the vfd its actually a very competitively priced item, which supplier did you use?

 

[flh801978]

I think both were from solar jean some years ago

 

[Eric The Viking]

i prefer to remove the socket install a gland and hard wire in a cable with proper earthing

That sounds very sensible.

I can think of few connectors that will take the current (assume it's 24V or similar), but nothing springs to mind that would be suitable for a high vibration environment. A cable gland would be cheap and reliable.

 

[flh801978]

Eric its 240v at 9 amps so totally unsuited to that connector
Having said that many people run them on the plug and socket and have no problems

Ian

 

[Markvk]

Have ordered it from solar jean having negotiated a discount, thanks for the advice.