Unfortunately the web page comes up as a jumble of HTML and CSS, as they haven't loaded it properly into eBay.
Never mind anything else, I wouldn't be keen on 2.2kw going through that four-pin connector on the back - nasty idea, They were designed in the 1950s and first showed up here on cheap Japanese microphones in the days when Japanese engineering did NOT have a reputation for quality - low voltage and current (and chrome-plated pins, also not good).
There is no provision on either half of the connector for proper isolation at voltages above about 50V. You need to be extremely careful when making off cables that the pins particularly are properly soldered and insulated both from each other and from the case. For the chassis connector I'd want to see: (1) a solid earth of all metalwork (including the body of the motor AND the connector body) with continuity through the cable back to the controller; (2) Hellermann sleeves or heatshrink over every solder bucket at the back.
I have one seven-or-eight-pin version of that connector in a mission-critical application (at microphone level), in a box I made up years ago. One pin is intermittent, and I have never yet been able to track down the problem properly (it never does it with a meter across the pins!). The clamping ring also doesn't make a good connection.
Frankly that one connector choice tells me all I need to know...
. . .
What on earth is wrong with using one of the cylindrical routers? They're a lot cheaper, they are designed for the job, and standard cutters will fit.
As I said, can't read the seller's eBay page so not sure what the collet size is. You really need one or more of the following:
4mm (unusual but used for inlay work, etc.)
6mm (very unusual)
6.35mm (1/4": very common)
8mm (fairly common, good robust size)
12.7 (1/2" standard big cutter shank)
I'm sure the Chinese thing should work, but it looks like an expensive and risky way to do it. If the motor or controller fails, you have no comeback (for practical purposes), yet your design will depend on a like-for-like replacement.
Regards,
E.
(sorry probably in a bad mood this morning - should be digging holes in the side of the house - a job I hate!).
PS: just seen the note about water cooling - terrifying! If it needs that, how inefficient is the motor, how will it survive if the coolant fails, and how much power is going through that silly connector???
once you take off the cost of the vfd its actually a very competitively priced item, which supplier did you use?
