Chainsaw mill??

[George_N]

Alaskan chainsaw mills are designed for planking tree trunks and large logs that have a substantial mass and won't move on you as you make a cut. The "mill" is just a jig that keeps the chainsaw parallel to the top of the log. In that respect they are no more dangerous than any other chainsaw (says he, who has never used one). I believe that they will convert large amounts of timber into sawdust but they can be a cost effective way of planking logs compared with hiring a bandsaw mill. I got a Lee Valley catalogue recently and they have a couple of different sized Alaskan mills, prices starting under $200(US). I reckon if you have access to free logs it could pay for itself very quickly. Of course you do then have to store the planks for drying..a year for each inch of thickness, so you do need the space and the patience.

 

[neilyweely]

this is what I am thinking, George. I have access to a LOT of wood (trees) on my mothers land. So I could get my hands on some oak, ash, beech and all sorts of other lovely wood!!! All free!!!

And Mike, tractors and I do not mix too well, long story involving a log splitter and 2 slipped discs. I do not like the things at all, bad juju!!

Mike, I think I am going to try one of these things, the 'timber-jig' by these people. (forgotten their names, but have their card inside). I shall probly end up with it sitting in the back of my dads garage, with all sorts of other bright ideas! If it goes wrong I will be standing WELL back, and all I shall lose is a hundred quid (said very flippantly bearing in mind i do not have a pot to pish in!). It is either that, or I shall try to cut length ways free-hand. I have been told these rip chains are a bit of a gimmick, so am not sure quite what to do yet.

Thanks mate, for all your good advice.


Neil

 

[inandout]

I rigged up a chainsaw mill to cut some planks of oak. I laid an aluminium ladder next to the tree trunk and made a height adjustable sled to run up and down the ladder, attached chainsaw to ladder and then cut. It worked fine but don't suppose the health and safety police would approve. It was a slow process and as others have said you will get a lot of waste.

 

[ciscoeuk]

you could strip out an old band saw parts and get hold of a 3 hp motor make a frame and replace the saw with purposes built jig and frame

and engineering bandsaw would be ideal for parts and you could stick a petrol driven lawn mower engine as a pwer unit,

 

[ciscoeuk]

just to let you all know i have manage to obtain plans for a homebuilt saw mill

that use parst of a car and old boat trailer

anyone interested??

 

[Benchwayze]

I would have a good look at these 'lumps' Neil. I would check if I can get some nice quarter-sawn flecking. If they are 60mm thick, most bandsaws worthy of the name should handle this depth of cut. Having decided how I'd want to cut it, I'd get a pal to help manhandle the planks over my bandsaw. This would get them to manageable sizes, that could be put in stick if they are 'green'. Then I'd have a rest, safe in the knowledge I have all my digits, crack open a can ccasion5: and think about how I can make best use of the figure in the timber.

Best of Luck Neil.

PS.. If you have that much timber at your disposal, could you flog a couple of trees to some of the pro's, and buy a nice big bandsaw mate?

My 351 will cut 8" deep and the last time I used it to convert logs, I salvaged a lovely pile of laburnum. Just by cleaving the logs into radials and planking them on the 351. (All gone now... and the laburnum oysters too!)


:ho2

 

[big soft moose]

Alaskan chainsaw mills are designed for planking tree trunks and large logs that have a substantial mass and won't move on you as you make a cut. The "mill" is just a jig that keeps the chainsaw parallel to the top of the log. In that respect they are no more dangerous than any other chainsaw (says he, who has never used one). I believe that they will convert large amounts of timber into sawdust but they can be a cost effective way of planking logs compared with hiring a bandsaw mill. I got a Lee Valley catalogue recently and they have a couple of different sized Alaskan mills, prices starting under $200(US). I reckon if you have access to free logs it could pay for itself very quickly. Of course you do then have to store the planks for drying..a year for each inch of thickness, so you do need the space and the patience.

thers nothing inherently unsafe about chainsaw use so long as you

a) treat them with respect
b)know what you are doing
c) wear all the appropriate protective equipment
d) maintain them well
and
e) dont try to use them in ways for which they are not intended.

with this in mind assuming you are a qualified and experienced user with a decent chainsaw and a sharp chain it should be relatively safe (Ie no less so than any other wood work opperation) to use an alaskan mill

Its something i'm going to look into because it would be a lot easier to plank on site and transport planks than to cut the tree into lumps then take home and mill freehand, however that said i'm a countryside proffesional with years of experience and a range of saws - I routinely use a stihl 361 with 18" bar for storm clearance.

If on the other hand you have never been trained in safe use and your saw is a mculloch bought in B&Q for £50, your chain is blunt because no one has ever taught you to sharpen it, and you didnt buy any protective equipment because , well, it wont happen to you and its expensive, and you are planning to use a home made jig and an aluminium ladder instead of investing in a mill. My advice in this situation would be simple - if you like your fingers and limbs being attached to you then dont !

 

[neilyweely]

BSM

Good advice mate, and appreciated. I spent a year in a christian commune working in forestry, where I got my chainsaw licence and all my arb tickets. I also spent some time in guyana doing 'missionary' work with the natives, who thought nothing of climbing a 70ft tree with no rope and standing on the branch they were cutting!!!

I have a stihl and a husqy, as well as a couple of 'specialist' saws. And I have 9 1/2 fingers and thumbs, 2 arms and 2 legs. And God willing that is how it shall remain. However I do like the idea of using a frame to guide the Chainsaw as I cannot afford, or justify, a mill.

Thanks for your warning though.

Neil

PS - fwiw I do have a McCulloch too!! somewhere.....And kevlar DOES cost the earth!!!

 

[TEP]

Mornin' Neil.

I have a Logosol Timber Jig and it works great, and is pretty accurate for what I use it for. BUT IMO I wouldn't use it for re-sawing 60mm timber, you will lose more than you gain from it, and in all honesty chainsaw milling seasoned timber is really hard on you and on the saw.

I use mine for converting logs to turning blanks/planks. You can cut good 1" boards from a wet log with a reasonable finish, but again this is all starting from the log not re-sawing pre sized timber.

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Hi Tam,

I'd be interested to hear a bit more about how you get on with the Timberjig. I would imagine that getting the first flat edge on a log would be quite difficult, although presumably maouevering the log can also be quite difficult. What sort of size of pieces would you be cutting down, I've seen on their website that they say smaller logs are much easier.

Presumably one needs a fairly powerful saw?

Cheers,

Dod

 

[TEP]

Hi Dod.

Only used the Timberjig twice since purchase, and it worked fine. Had one log of Ash delivered to my house. Set the jig up and cut a couple of lengths. It wasn't a real test as the log was 4' x 14", but it let me have a go. It was a bit fiddly setting up on the small log.

Next was a Sycamore log on the side of a field, 9' x approx 18". Cut the length in half then set up to cut each half into 2" & 4" slabs. Was there for the best part of 5 hours, but if you have access to raw timber I think it is worth it.

My saw is a Stihl 044 70cc with a 25" bar, fitted with a ripping chain. I do have a standard chain but decided to go the route and bought the ripping chain, but I don't know if it makes a lot of difference. I haven't got the experience to tell but it is recommended for end grain cutting.

As to getting the first flat on the log, its quite easy as the timber guide rail is supporting the saw. There is a lot of waste when milling they way they show in the video, but their intentions are to mill planks.

I have been trying to figure out a metal frame which will support the guide rail. I can then roll the log onto the frame and just lower the guide rail and cut the log through and through.

It certainly beats converting timber by hand, I used to have quite a lot of waste when I did that. Now at least I can get measured planks.

 

[neilyweely]

be interested to hear a bit more about how you get on with the Timberjig. I would imagine that getting the first flat edge on a log would be quite difficult, although presumably maouevering the log can also be quite difficult. What sort of size of pieces would you be cutting down, I've seen on their website that they say smaller logs are much easier.

you use a ladder or other flat run to get your first straight cut, fixed firmly to the edge of the log. I haven't actually used one yet, but have now seen them in use and they are great. I wouldn't be able to re-saw 60mm timber, as pointed out, but the amount of times I drive past felled timber that is useable it grates with me, if you know what I mean. I love a freebie, me!!

Anyway, I have got in touch with a local fella who has one, and will be using it soon. I will take plenty of pix, maybe video it, for the forum.

Cheers all

Neil

 

[TEP]

Hi Neil.

The ladder idea is for most chainsaw mills fitted with a frame guide. The Timber jig doesn't work like that, it runs on its own guide rail. You construct this rail with 2 lengths of 5" x 1" plank and some brackets that come with the Timber jig. This rail is set then screwed to each end of the log the saw sits in the rail and you cut off the edge plank.

You then unscrew the rail, set it for height and screw it onto the flat face you have just cut. You then take the next cut, which leaves you with 2 flat sides at 90deg to each other.

You remove the guide rail, set the board height on the Timber jig which is then placed over the 90deg angle and you slice away. All I do is slice right through cause all I want is timber for turning blanks. If you want proper planks it is a little more involved, you cut to a 3 sided log so that when you mill you have sized boards coming off. It's not that hard really, just slow.

 

[neilyweely]

sounds great. am looking forward to it.

cheers

neil

 

[Digit]

PM on the way Neil but have you considered the more traditional method of cleaving the logs?

Roy.

 

[neilyweely]

Roy, have looked into it, but to confess I don't know a lot about it. OK, am a good student; lets learn something!! I mean, I have seem incredible architecture ( in Dubrovnik, pre war) with amazing use of timber in incredibly intricate and inventive ways. All this was done, presumably, without a mill? Or was it?

Neil, who is gonna now be up hours looking up old milling techniques!!