Chainsaw advice

[PaulH]

I have been given some logs that I want to convert into turning blanks and was therefore considering purchasing a chainsaw. I am aware that these are dangerous tools and have already done some background reading on the dangers and the "safe" use of the saw (but will also do much more reading before purchase/use!).

I was considering one of these from Axminster on the grounds that I will only be dealing with very small quantities of logs (say approximately one 2ft length every 3 months) and hence am guessing that I don't need a petrol version. I also believe that the electric models are slightly safer given they are less powerful (but I'm not lulled into a false sense of security by that!).

My major concern with this particular chainsaw is the length of the bar (16"). I currently have one log that is slightly wider than 16".

Given this "context" I have two specific queries:

1) Can a chainsaw be used to cut through the pith from both sides (i.e. will the axminster deal with cutting a 32" diameter log through the pith) or would this lead to kickback? From what I've read regarding kickback, I think it would be OK provided the handle of the chainsaw was kept lower than the end of the bar so that the top quarter of the chain on the circular end didn't contact the wood. Am I right?

2) Has anyone any experience of the Axminster chainsaw or are there others that I should consider? (e.g. would anyone say that going down the electric route is a waste of money even for small quantities?)

Thanks,
Paul.

 

[Gaz_XB9R]

Paul,
Just had a look at electric v's petrol and the power differences.

1900 watts = 2.5 HP

See http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/vt40-chainsaw/path/chainsaws-log-splitters for petrol

See http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/vt2000e-chainsaw/path/chainsaws-log-splitters for electric

Both approx the same power and 16" guide bars.

See http://www.onlineconversion.com/ for online conversion tool.

 

[tigerturnings]

1) Can a chainsaw be used to cut through the pith from both sides (i.e. will the axminster deal with cutting a 32" diameter log through the pith) or would this lead to kickback? From what I've read regarding kickback, I think it would be OK provided the handle of the chainsaw was kept lower than the end of the bar so that the top quarter of the chain on the circular end didn't contact the wood. Am I right?

I'm not a trained pro, so I can't give any proper advice, but I have been able to cut logs with diameter larger then my bar length without any adverse effects from kickback and the like.

I think going to twice the bar length in diameter would require very careful alignment of the matching cuts, which is not easy especially if the chain ends up slightly unevenly ground (in which case it will pull to once side). Having said that, I wouldn't let it stop me trying, were I to be offered a log twice my bar length across!

Edit: as a matter of course I always wear padded, chain-stopping trousers along with steel toecaps, gloves, face shield, and ear defenders when sawing. I think mine were from Oregon, about £100 and highly recommended for the extra safety they offer.

HTH

TT

 

[Mark Hancock]

Paul

Yes with a chainsaw you can cut logs with diameters of twice the bar length. Just ensure the grippers (can't remember the technical term) are pushed upto and engage with the surface of the log when cutting from both sides. And you have the right idea regarding kickback.

I've had an electric Stihl for many years in addition to the petrol one and it's one of the best purchases I've made. But I would say electrics aren't as safe as petrol ones. With an electric there is no indication that the power is switch on until you pull the trigger; with petrol you definitely know when it's live. Apart from that they have all the same safety features.

The main thing to remember is to keep the chain sharp otherwise you'll strain the motor. If you are unsure how to do this by hand there are jigs available. I think dremel do one.

Lidls had a similar looking saw a couple of weeks ago for £45 with a 3 year guarantee.

Edit. Treat it with respect. Over 90% of accidents are from amateur users with the injuries being to the forehead and legs. I saw the videos when I did the forestry basic course. So do get the protective legging and the peaked safety helmet.

TT the idea of the peaked safety helmet is that the saw engages with the peak first that is why it's more advisable than just a face shield.

 

[Paul.J]

Hello Paul.
here is some info and some more
here
Hth.

 

[lurker]

Generally speaking you need a blade that allows a good couple of inches sticking out beyond the far side.
Otherwise kick back is close to a near certainty. There are techniques to minimise this, personally I use wooden wedges to open the kerf as I go through the log.

A helmet with full face visor is a must - plus all the other kit where possible.

I never start my saw (s) - I use mainly for hedge laying. Unless there is someone with me.

 

[Scrums]

For some reason I thought that an electric saw would be safer too, just a feeling !
Anyway I bought a Husqvarna 137e and I'm really pleased with it.

Another reason for electric is that I read somewhere that I'd need to keep emptying the 2 stroke on a petrol one, given that I can go weeks without using it - the fuel separates or something. The guy in the shop was dubious to say the least about whether it would 'rip' logs, but I regularly do, with a standard chain - no probs'.

Chris.

 

[lurker]

Scrums, you just give the saw a shake :lol: and it remixes
I leave mine chucking about for months and have no trouble starting them.

Problems with lecy ones:
Easy to strip the cogs & drive
Easy to cut its tail and electrocute yerself
Can't use in the wet
Not very robust

Only benefit I can see is you can use indoors which is not a great idea with a petrol one.

The problem (safety & use) that i observe with people using these things ( either power version) is they do not seem to recognise when the blade is blunting and force the saw. Then they are very dangerous.

 

[PaulH]

Firstly, thanks to one and all for the replies.

In regard to whether or not you can cut a log whose diameter is twice the length of the bar:

Yes with a chainsaw you can cut logs with diameters of twice the bar length.

and

Generally speaking you need a blade that allows a good couple of inches sticking out beyond the far side. Otherwise kick back is close to a near certainty.

Are these contradictory or am I missing something?

Thanks again,
Paul.

 

[lurker]

Paul,

If you go on a training course they will tell you that using a too short chain bar is one of the ten deadly sins.

I never said it could not be done ( I do it all the time) but you need to be well aware of the hazards. If that end disappears from sight, sooner or later you will get kick back unless you take precautions.

Mark talks about the grippers ( saw spikes) I've been using saws for 15 years and I've never relied on these.

Cutting across a log, it will close the kerf once you are beyond half way, even if you try cutting from the other side depending on how the log is supported it can close up.

I use my saws occasionally for ripping though a trunk (woodturning materials!) and you can get jams as the cut relieves stress in the wood.

By all means buy a saw - I'd go for petrol. Make sure you factor into your spend a decent forestry helmet and some leather gloves and use a saw horse - a wooden one is easy to knock up ( those metal ones you see advertised make me cringe).

Learn how to sharpen the chain.

 

[Mark Hancock]

Paul

You may find this useful: http://www.stihl.co.uk/pdf/chainsaw.pdf

It explains all the cuts a chainsaw is capable of, use of the Bumper Spike (correct term ) including to prevent pull in, compression and tension cuts and many safety considerations etc.

It doesn't refer to ripping down the length of a log but I was taught, as with any woodworking tool, you work with the grain ie not on the end grain getting dusty shavings but along the side of a log getting long shaving flying out.

 

[Inspector]

Unless your logs are full of knots why don't you make a big box of wedges and split the log before sawing? Not many turners have lathes big enough to take a 32" dia blank anyway.
I have a Husky like these but in the 110 volt version (half the power) and like it a lot.

http://www.husqvarna.co.uk/node1555.aspx?cid=109

 

[pren]

Hey.

Just to ad my 2p:

I've been using a 40cm JCB petrol saw for 5yrs. Mainly used for firewood logging over the winters for family and friends. Never had any probs with it. Would definitely recommend the make. Cost me £60.

Having used both electric and petrol, I'd go for petrol every time. Electrics are underpowered, regardless of motor size, IMHO.

As regards kickback, from my experience, if you're cutting logs thicker than your bar length then the pressure exerted by the run of the chain will overcome the 'lifting' force of the nose.

If you're planning on using the saw for mainly ripping logs that are thicker than your bar length: beware of some saws that come with an anti-kickback guard on the nose. It will prevent you from passing the bar down the middle of a thicker log.

8)

 

[Richardhw]

Go for a petrol one with a decent sized bar and power, it makes light work with the right tools 8) like this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwyMX7PLlcQ&NR=1

 

[Chainsaw Nut]

Paul

Common misconception, electric chainsaws are just as likely to bite you as petrol.

When I learnt to use chainsaws PPE was a bottle of Sun tan oil. I say that as it is a must to spend decent money on PPE but it must not be forgotton that this is only in case of everything going wrong not as an alternastive for good practice.

For the work you are describing I would use a 14" bar, given practice there is no reason not to cut from both sides, I frequently cut 5' ish trees and my biggest saw is 36".

The main reason for kickback in my experience is tiredness, if you have both hands in the correct position and are holding firmly and standing with the correct alignment then you will not get hurt. When starting out you will not realise how tired you will get and also your mucles need to get into condition mainly your forearms.

I find Stihl saws easiest to use being lighter and delivering reliable power.

 

[RogerS]

Paul

If you're only going to cut blanks very intermittently then go electric. If you go down the petrol route then there is a high probability that it will be all gummed up and won't start the next time you come to use it.

Invest in a chain sharpening file - that's half the battle.

Regarding kickback - funnily enough - I was talking about this with a tree-surgeon in the village store Saturday morning as we cringed while watching the 'Saturday Girl' slicing ham on the machine using her fingers to hold the very thin remaining offcut down - despite our entreaties not to - he reckoned that you didn't get kickback with an electric chainsaw. I do not know if that is correct or not.

Roger