Cast Iron Care

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ByronBlack

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Ok, so i've decided to keep 'el-rusto' and now have to give it a good clean up before I do my proper setup of it.

Other than some wet-n-dry and elbow grease, what are the standard measures for removing rust (especially in hard to reach area's) and how should I then move onto prevention and care in terms of waxing/oiling etc..

Basically, with the partial refund i've received I would like to spend that on goods/jigs/cloths etc suitable for the general maintenance and use of a planer thicknesser, any idea's welcome, i'm a complete newb to large machinery so I need a few pointers here.. i'm slightly dreading the setup!
 
Byron


Hope you have many years of good use from it mate!

I tried using a wax polish on the tablesaw but that failed miserably on the rust prevention front. next day, there was surface rust :cry:

I used camelia oil and no rust since I got the saw - only applied camelia once so far
 
Do a serch with rust + prevention in the GW forum and you'll get all the information you need.
 
I would second the use of Liberon Lubricating Wax, I use it on all of the machines I have, cast iron and aluminum. The other thing that helps is trying to keep the humidity down, I bought a dehumidifier from Wickes, makes a big difference in the shop.
 
I'll third the use of Liberon Lubricating Wax. Really makes things glide across the tables.

Adam
 
Hi Byron

This will sound brutal, but it works for me. Cast iron is just about harder than aluminium oxide which in turn is harder than red iron oxide, so basically if a table has a bloom of rust it can be removed pronto by a random orbit sander, a bit of 3-in-1 and a 180 grit alox disc on a random orbit or orbital sander. Just keep everything moving. When finished wipe off a couple of times using a cottom rag damped with something like white spirits, apply Liberon Lubo wax and finally buff off. Then cover with something which will not allow damp micro-climate to develop beneath it as condensation is your greatest enemy.

For gears wipe off the grease and replace with a dry graphite compound as it doesn't attract dust

Scrit
 
BB - haven't any experience of Liberon wax but would second the notion of a dehumidifier, one of these really does keep down the level of moisture in the shop. I treat all steel and iron surfaces of hand tools with camellia oil, but I don't really need to as I have never seen any rust developing on anything - Rob
 
Byron I also use Liberon Lubricating wax, and have never had a spot of rust on any of my machines since I started using it. It not only keeps the wax at bay but it also leaves a perfect surface to slide your timber across.

I have also got dehumidifier, there are cheaper ones on the market and most of them will do a 2 or 3 bedroom house, so a workshop is no problem.
http://www.dehumidifiers-shop.co.uk/?gc ... lAodHXACEw

Cheers

Mike
 
andycktm":2xsj6k9g said:
Am i missing something here? :?
Rain? You must be on the dry side of the hill, whereas I'm near the top - and it allus rains round here!

Scrit
 
I would also like to add a thumbs up for that Liberon Lubricating Wax.

I have removed modest surface rust with a sort of fibrous brillo type scotch thing pad. (can't remember the name of the thing.) It was quite effective.

Hope you can soon tidy-up that machine BB, I'm sure you will have it purring before long and looking shiny and new.

Esc.
 
Looks like the liberon stuff is the way to go then :) Cheers for all the responses.

What about general usage, are there any particular things I should do during/after use - can dust/resin or sap cause a problem or am I just over-thinking here?

Hopefully i'll get some time tomorrow evening or the weekend to get el-rusto up and running, i'll post some photo's and a mini-review of how I get on, I've got a lovely twisted bit of maranti which will be the ideal test piece.

Here's a stupid question: Dehumidifier, do they require to be plugged in all night, or can you get non-powered ones? The reason I ask is because the power to my workshop is not on unless i'm in there - all the electric is brought into the workshop via an extension lead into the house, which means I have to unplug/plug in as and when I use the shop until I can get the workshop ring wired up to the house..
 

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