Can oil paint be used over a water-based primer?

[DuncanA]

I'm currently getting ready to paint a tool chest and I've got a tin of red oil paint for the final colour coat. I chose an oil paint as a the traditional option suitable for a chest of traditional hand tools.

For a primer I ordered some oil-based primer online which arrived today but unfortunately I've been sent a water-based primer (Rustins 'Problem Solving White Primer'). I'll be letting the seller know, but I was wondering if I could get away with using the water-based primer with an oil paint top coat (and avoid the complications and delays of getting it replaced)? I've read that water-based paints don't work well over oil-based primers, are there similar problems or incompatibilities for the reverse - will it allow decent coverage and lifespan?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Many primers for general use are now water based. You shouldn't have any problems - I had some melamine primer that was water based, and it was so good and so quick drying that I ended up using it exclusively. The problem is the other way around - an oil based primer stops the water based final coats drying out properly.

 

[Cottonwood]

I usually use zinsser 1-2-3 bullseye white acryliic primer, normally under farrow & Ball oil based paint, never had any problems!

 

[Jacob]

Can be a disaster on external joinery. Been there , dunnit.

 

[Cottonwood]

I dont think a tool chest will be living outdoors..
I use that combo on painted furniture for indoors, for exterior thingss (eg windows, doors) I use oil based primer and undercoat

 

[DuncanA]

The chest will indeed be indoors! However, it is going to be in room that can often be damp (and cold), in heavy rain the floor has been known to flood (not to any extreme level but enough to dampen the wood shavings). I'll be keeping the chest off of the floor but it can be a very moist environment - is that a factor that may influence things in the oil- vs water-based decision?

 

[Leif]

I did my skirting, architraves and window boards in acrylic primer followed by 2 coats of Sikkens oil based paint. I've also used Zinsser 123 which feels very like acrylic primer. For a toolbox it'll be fine.

Given a choice I'd use oil based primer as it goes on smoother and thinner, acrylic primer shows brush marks, maybe if thinned lots and applied in 2 coats it'd be better. Also check out the brushmate.

 

[blackrodd]

Many primers for general use are now water based. You shouldn't have any problems - I had some melamine primer that was water based, and it was so good and so quick drying that I ended up using it exclusively. The problem is the other way around - an oil based primer stops the water based final coats drying out properly.

Acrylic primer/ undercoat is o.k. with oil based top coat(s) but not a good idea for exterior work! I get on really well with Dulux paints, mini roller for an even quick coat and then flatten off with the (Hamilton) brush. I try not to use anything else. Rodders

 

[Flynnwood]

The chest will indeed be indoors! However, it is going to be in room that can often be damp (and cold), in heavy rain the floor has been known to flood (not to any extreme level but enough to dampen the wood shavings). I'll be keeping the chest off of the floor but it can be a very moist environment - is that a factor that may influence things in the oil- vs water-based decision?

You say it will be a 'very moist environment' so I would not use a water based undercoat.

You will probably end up with the oil based top coat splitting over time - similar to using this method externally. Which means doing it again/repairing at some point in the future. Not worth it when you can just use oil based undercoat to start with.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I must admit to never having used water based primer on exterior work - primarily because I've not done any outside work since I used it.

 

[RogerS]

You don't mention what type of wood you used. Some more resinous woods don't take kindly to water-based primer.

Re the comment about oil-based primer stopping water based top coats from drying out. I don't follow the 'science' behind that comment. If you have water based primer then you let it dry before you apply the next coats. That forms a pretty effective seal and so you're not going to get much drying out that way back into the underlying wood, surely? I do know that many water-based paints need to be applied in thin layers..ie not a thick layer..because the outer molecules form a 'dried' skin and that then stops the paint underneath from drying out properly/quickly.

Since moving over to Zinsser's primer products I have been a very happy bunny. I used some Farrow and Ball water-based primer on douglas fir (why does anyone use that wood? it's ghastly....best burned) and that stayed sticky. To be fair to F&B they recommend using their stain block primer on resinous woods but TBH that was pretty duff as well. Zinsser for me.

 

[DuncanA]

The wood used is Pine. I'm now thinking I'll try and get the primer replaced with the correct oil-based primer. While the chest won't necessarily be undergoing extreme conditions I'd rather be over-protected than find out that the water-based primer isn't good enough for the moist conditions of my workshop.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[Cottonwood]

I do know that many water-based paints need to be applied in thin layers..ie not a thick layer..because the outer molecules form a 'dried' skin and that then stops the paint underneath from drying out properly/quickly.

I use 2 thin coats of the zinsser primer, with a light sand after the first coat, works fine.
Craig and rose acrylic eggshell is a nice paint to use as well