sean_in_limerick
Established Member
Hi all, - is it safe to make crown moulding on a router-table equipped with a 3HP router? Thought i would ask opinions before investing in a router bit.
Rgds,
Sean
Rgds,
Sean
can crown mouldings be done on the router-table?
- Thread starter sean_in_limerick
- Start date
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SketchUp Guru
Established Member
It can be done safely on the router table. Even with a 3HP router you'll likely need to make several passes. Don't try hogging out all the wood at once. A solidly mounted fence and featherboards to keep the work down on the table are important.
If you have a planer (or what is it you Brits call what we call a planer?
), consider removing most of the waste with it and a sled that will hold the wood at the desired angle. You could do that for the back as well.
If you have a planer (or what is it you Brits call what we call a planer?
), consider removing most of the waste with it and a sled that will hold the wood at the desired angle. You could do that for the back as well.sean_in_limerick
Established Member
Thanks Dave - what can you do with a planer/jointer? Not sure i follow this - unless by planer you mean something more exotic than what i have at home?
My concerns are safety-related - i have read that some people don't consider it safe because of vibrations? I have never noticed any vibration in my setup and i have used a pretty hefty raised-panel cutter.
My concerns are safety-related - i have read that some people don't consider it safe because of vibrations? I have never noticed any vibration in my setup and i have used a pretty hefty raised-panel cutter.
PowerTool
Established Member
Sean - planer (American) = thicknesser (UK)
As Dave said,if you can make a jig to hold the timber safely,you can reduce the amount of work the router needs to do (e.g. making square section into triangular section)
Andrew
As Dave said,if you can make a jig to hold the timber safely,you can reduce the amount of work the router needs to do (e.g. making square section into triangular section)
Andrew
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
Sean, there shouldn't be any vibration if the cutter is balanced and the bearings in your router are good. As to using the planer, I'll make a picture to show you what I mean.
Andrew has the right idea. Thanks for the proper term, too, Andrew.
Andrew has the right idea. Thanks for the proper term, too, Andrew.
sean_in_limerick
Established Member
i'm intrigued - but i just can't visualise how a thicknesser can help!
Sean the amateur
Established Member
Dear Powertool,
No. No. No.
Planer = a machine that makes one flat surface. This machine can correct wind, cup, twist etc.
Thicknesser = a machine that thicknesses a piece of wood. It will spit out a piece which has a uniform thickness, but does not correct wind, cupping etc.
Jointer = a machine that will produce a straight and flat face on a pioece of wood when a flat edge is held against its fence.
These are the same on both sides of the pond.
Sean
No. No. No.
Planer = a machine that makes one flat surface. This machine can correct wind, cup, twist etc.
Thicknesser = a machine that thicknesses a piece of wood. It will spit out a piece which has a uniform thickness, but does not correct wind, cupping etc.
Jointer = a machine that will produce a straight and flat face on a pioece of wood when a flat edge is held against its fence.
These are the same on both sides of the pond.
Sean
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
Sean in Limerick, here's a quick sketch to illustrate my suggestion. Reading left to right, the profile of the molding on the end of the stock. The yellow area shows what would be wasted way with the planer, thicknesser or whatever. The second image shows the wedge-shaped sled. The angle of the wedge matches the angle of the wedge shaped waste to be removed. the third image shows the waste removed.
I've done this for a number of things where I needed a taper or wedge. I usually don't make an entire wedge. I make a sled out of 3/4" MDF and put a strip of wood down to lift one side of the work. I put another one down parallel to it to act as a stop to prevent the work from moving laterally. I make the strip that lifts the work a little on the thick side. Then I stick it to the MDF with carpet tape and run it through the thicknesser until I have it the right height to get the angle. If I want to keep the sled for future work of the same type, I glue the strips in place. Maybe another drawing is in order?
You could do a similar sort of thing for the two back faces that meet the wall and ceiling, too. You would just make a taller "wedge". That wedge could be rotated to give the opposite side. If you are going to make those faces with the planer/thicknesser, I'd do them before taking that narrow wedge off the front.
I've done this for a number of things where I needed a taper or wedge. I usually don't make an entire wedge. I make a sled out of 3/4" MDF and put a strip of wood down to lift one side of the work. I put another one down parallel to it to act as a stop to prevent the work from moving laterally. I make the strip that lifts the work a little on the thick side. Then I stick it to the MDF with carpet tape and run it through the thicknesser until I have it the right height to get the angle. If I want to keep the sled for future work of the same type, I glue the strips in place. Maybe another drawing is in order?
You could do a similar sort of thing for the two back faces that meet the wall and ceiling, too. You would just make a taller "wedge". That wedge could be rotated to give the opposite side. If you are going to make those faces with the planer/thicknesser, I'd do them before taking that narrow wedge off the front.
sean_in_limerick
Established Member
i don't see any sketch Dave :?
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
Oops, I don't either.
Here we go.
While you were wondering where the picture was, I was making another showing the idea for the sled to cut the back corners. On the left, the red areas are removed. The sled and work is then rotated 90° and the green areas are removed.
Edited to add: sorry about the picture size.
Sleds like this are handy for making these sorts of cuts. They can be kept for future use so you don't have to worry about setting up the tablesaw to make a bevel cut that matches the angle from the last time. The surfaces are generally nicer than that left by a tablesaw, too.
You could use similar sleds with the tablesaw as well and leave the blade at 90°. Just make sure the waste falls off to the outside away from the fence.
Here we go.
While you were wondering where the picture was, I was making another showing the idea for the sled to cut the back corners. On the left, the red areas are removed. The sled and work is then rotated 90° and the green areas are removed.
Edited to add: sorry about the picture size.
Sleds like this are handy for making these sorts of cuts. They can be kept for future use so you don't have to worry about setting up the tablesaw to make a bevel cut that matches the angle from the last time. The surfaces are generally nicer than that left by a tablesaw, too.
You could use similar sleds with the tablesaw as well and leave the blade at 90°. Just make sure the waste falls off to the outside away from the fence.
sean_in_limerick
Established Member
thanks Dave, amazing what a picture does - nice software as well!
I do quite a bit of cornice/crown moulding on my router table, trend craftsman with Elu MOF177E and mostly the Trend No 92/14 cutter. One pass will do in MDF and Hardwoods though I tend to take two passes in beech & maple.
No pre shaping just cut the two back corners off on the table saw once the moulding is run.
Jason
No pre shaping just cut the two back corners off on the table saw once the moulding is run.
Jason
sean_in_limerick
Established Member
hi jason, what angle to you cut the back corners off - and do you find it critical to use featherboards if the cornice is long?
I usually cut the back at 45 degrees but have done 40/50 and 60/30 depending on the look I'm after.
It is important to keep the timber against the fence & table especially when the moulding gets long, I usually don't need any longer than 8ft. I clamp a scrap of wood along the whole lenght of the fence with just enough room for the timber to pass under it. And either a couple of feather boards or another scrap the whole length of the table to keep the work against the fence. An outfeed roller is also handy.
The bit may sem a little pricy but mine has paid for itself several times over as I have rum a few hundred meters of cornice through it.
Jason
It is important to keep the timber against the fence & table especially when the moulding gets long, I usually don't need any longer than 8ft. I clamp a scrap of wood along the whole lenght of the fence with just enough room for the timber to pass under it. And either a couple of feather boards or another scrap the whole length of the table to keep the work against the fence. An outfeed roller is also handy.
The bit may sem a little pricy but mine has paid for itself several times over as I have rum a few hundred meters of cornice through it.
Jason
sean_in_limerick
Established Member
thanks again Jason - seems like the way to go - what height/thickness wood do you typically use for cornice moulding?
The Trend cutter needs the timber to be 48-52 mm otherwise it is wider than the cutter. I either cut from 18 or 25mm thick timber.
You can build up larger cornices by placing extra mouldings top & bottom.
Jason
You can build up larger cornices by placing extra mouldings top & bottom.
Jason
wrightclan
Established Member
jasonB":15dddn90 said:
jasonB":15dddn90 said:
Jason's advice is good. I use a similar setup, with one difference you might consider. I rout the cornice detail into a wider board, then rip the cornice from that wider board. Reason--it's easier to keep the board flat against a tall fence that way. It gives a cleaner cut and is probably safer as well--especially when doing longer boards. If your fence is not very tall, mount a sacrificial fence to your existing fence.
Brad
