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thecoder

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Does anyone know where I can find plans for making jewellery boxes in particular I'm interested in how to assemble the inner compartments and how to felt or line etc. Cheers Dave
 

Mike Wingate

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+ info and suppliers of hinges and fittings at decent prices. I use flocking from Turners Retreat and may use their Inlace product for decoration.
 

brianhabby

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Thanks Jen,

Actually I do recall that thread, you made a very handsome box.

I was interested to note that you mentioned Andrew normally uses either a lap or rabbet joint for beginners but you wanted mitres to hide the end grain.

My grandson has just made a box for his mum's Christmas present (still in the throws of finishing) and we had the same dilemma, mitre joints are notoriously difficult to get perfect but lap joints show end grain. In the end we came up with something that I think solves the problem - a lap joint with no end grain showing. It is covered by a small piece of wood.

I'll post a pic later to show what I mean.

regards

Brian
 

Mike Wingate

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Or lap joints with a separate side piece that allows the top to hinge, or rebated sections to act a legs that cover the joints.
 

brianhabby

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Mike, that's exactly what we did, see the pic below.

joint.jpg


Just a quick question about the shooting board. I know one of the secrets of perfect mitres is that opposite sides must be exactly equal, but how do you achieve that when using the shooting board? You can't use a stop.

regards

Brian
 

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thecoder

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brianhabby":1p5ovtec said:
Mike, that's exactly what we did, see the pic below.



Just a quick question about the shooting board. I know one of the secrets of perfect mitres is that opposite sides must be exactly equal, but how do you achieve that when using the shooting board? You can't use a stop.

regards

Brian
Hi Brian

I like the look of that joint. Am I right in thinking you cut the end piece then glued it on ?

Dave
 

brianhabby

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That's correct Dave. The end piece (walnut) extents a little at the bottom to make feet for the box. They were a bit spindly to start with so were thickened up by adding a piece on the foot end.

regards

Brian
 

thecoder

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brianhabby":3a7kpamt said:
That's correct Dave. The end piece (walnut) extents a little at the bottom to make feet for the box. They were a bit spindly to start with so were thickened up by adding a piece on the foot end.

regards

Brian
Thanks for sharing that info Brian,I like the look of it. would be nice to see it when its finished.

regards

Dave
 

Digit

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I've used the same technique for the top of boxes, it permits a of a fairly thick lid that can be recessed into the sides to hold everything square and the trims then hide the edges of the lid.

Roy.
 

Mike Wingate

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When shooting mitres, mark the inside length, cut mitres with method of choice, Nobex at school, Eumenia RAS at home. Plane mitres on shooting board. Only a few passes with the plane are needed. I have a new handle awaiting polishing for the No.5 1/2.
 

thecoder

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Digit":1b2urh9b said:
I've used the same technique for the top of boxes, it permits a of a fairly thick lid that can be recessed into the sides to hold everything square and the trims then hide the edges of the lid.

Roy.

Sorry to sound thick Roy but do you have any pics by any chance.

Regards

Dave
 
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