Blade for very thin spruce ?

[BenCviolin]

Hello,
Considering using a Hegner Multicut SE later in the year for cutting f holes on violins, and Cellos.
Not particularly challenging to do by hand but perhaps better by Hegner.
I'm new to scroll sawing, don't know what speeds best suit the various materials.

So what sort of blade is best for thin (3mm) materials ?
Many thanks.

 

[scrimper]

I know nowt about cut outs in violins but as far as blades go I can help a little, even the thickest Scroll saw blades are not very coarse and most can be used, generally speaking the reason for using the very fine blades is for very detailed work rather than being based on the thickness of materials, so for example for general cutting I might be using a No5 or No7 blade then switch to a No3 for more detailed internal cutouts, for really fine detailed work I might use a No 00 blade but these are very fine and do break very easily. As far as finish is concerned even a No 7 blade will give a smooth finish requiring no sanding especially if you use reverse tooth blades which minimise splinter cut out at the back of the cut.

I keep the whole range of blades from the very fine piercing variety through No's 00 right up to size No11 although the ones I use most are reverse tooth No's 3, 5 and 7. I usually buy the Niqua brand blades from Hobbies. (been using Hobbies blades for over 40 years)

 

[JohnPW]

Aren't f-holes always finished off with a knife and the saw is used only for removing most of the waste, ie the saw doesn't cut to the line but close to it?

 

[scrimper]

Aren't f-holes always finished off with a knife and the saw is used only for removing most of the waste, ie the saw doesn't cut to the line but close to it?

Not quite sure what you mean to be honest, in the piece shown below all of the cutting was done with a fretsaw and just a little sanding at the back to remove any kerf or cutout, no knife was involved.

 

[BenCviolin]

Aren't f-holes always finished off with a knife and the saw is used only for removing most of the waste, ie the saw doesn't cut to the line but close to it?

Yes that's right and the knife work is the critical bit.
Usually for f holes I use a fret saw and very fine jeweller's blade (you can't see the teeth...) so perhaps the Hegner will be best suited to just getting outlines and scrolls done.

Thanks.