Big log cross-cut saw question.

[ATsawyer]

Saw your post and thought I'd contribute, not wanting to just lurk here. I recently filed up my first GA saw and found it to cut rather well once sharp. Though not as fast as my peg and raker saws, it starts easily, runs smoothly, and doesn't hang up. I posted a summary of my filing steps on a US website, but it appears that I don't have permission to provide a link that page. Perhaps that comes with time?

Anyway, keeping all edges perfectly square or proportional and filing in line with the gullets seemed to give the best results. Setting was done with a coned hammer and the anvil was canted on the outside teeth to align with the tooth's axis.

 

[heimlaga]

There are too many bad bow saws and bad bow saw blades on the market.
The pipe frame has to be rigid enough to give the blade a proper tension unlike the Chineese bow saws sold today. Elderly Swedish bow saws are much better. For vertical cutting the Finnish made Purmo bow saws are considered to be the best as the frame is very heavy so it pushes itself down into the wood. They aren't made any more.
When it comes to blades I prefere Sandvik/Bahco blades and do not use anything else. The cheap blades just don't do the job.

I have two or three of those old one man felling saws but I never use them. Mostly I use my Husqvarna 353 chain saw.

 

[digitalbot]

Thanks for all the info people.
I have two bow saws and have tried them on firewood size logs -9" plus- but I also find that they wander in the cut and blunt really quickly too. I don't think the sandvik stuff is of the same quality as it used to be. They are ok for branches up to about 4" wide, a bit of apple tree pruning but anything more than that and something more robust is warranted I feel.
Hopefully something will present itself on the bay and i'll be the only one who wants it ( ha!..fat chance ).
I'll probably go for a long-ish one man job. As long as the one I pick up only needs a good clean, a fettle and a sharpen i'll be ok but I had a look one of those american sites from the links provided and there is a lot of other work needed to keep the big ones with the longer tooth pattens in check...hammering over the crown like raker teeth, setting by hand with a saw hammer and iron anvil, etc. Probably a lot more than my old B+D workmate can handle.

I'll be interested to hear the outcome of mike.s' sharpening experiment as and when.

 

[wizard]

For cutting logs i use a bosch electric chainsaw, cut down a two foot thick tree with it last year.

 

[ATsawyer]

Thanks to Mike S. for explaining the three-post rule for initiates. Pic of outside edge of GA saw tooth being trued up with crosscut saw file. This will guarantee me clean steel to the tip when pointing up.

 

[ATsawyer]

GA saw in test log. Cuts smoothly in dry oak.

 

[bugbear]

I'll probably go for a long-ish one man job.

These often go for more money than you'd like, 'cos they make quite a visual statement on pub walls...

On the bright side, I think it takes a LOT of corrosion to damage them, they're pretty sturdy.

BugBear

 

[digitalbot]

I've seen them painted!!! as signs and going for £60. What a waste.