Big log cross-cut saw question.

[digitalbot]

I'm thinking about obtaining, when one surfaces on one of the second hand sites, one of those heavy logging crosscut saws to cut logs for our new wood burning fire. A single man version about 36" or thereabouts. Has anybody returned anything similar to use?
Having looked in an old tyzack catalogue , something like the No.13 or 13B would be about right, as an example. Obvious it doesn't have to be a tyzack, anything decent will do.
I don't know if the english or american tooth version would be better.
Would it need a special file for the teeth.? And maybe an oversize saw set?

Any information appreciated.

 

[wizard]

this is what you want

 

[bugbear]

Better:

Nice Tyzack patent handled types

patent GB532965, 1941, full patent here

BugBear

 

[Mike.S]

Have a couple of those for fettling and, by coincidence, about to pick up three acquired on fleabay. Hopefully, one or two will be quality and rest can be recycled. All have the 'Great American Tooth, pattern, like the top one in your picture.

New versions are available from Thomas Flinn and Dieter Schmid.

I have a bow saw, like the one wizard posted, but find the blade twists in use and has limited depth of cut, hence my quest for a 'proper' crosscut saw to cut tree branches/trunks. From my research so far, the GAT is suited to greenwood, ideally hardwood but will do softwood also. The best teeth for softwood is the perforated lance type which consist of cutting teeth alternating with 'raker' teeth. Former slice the wood at the side of the kerf, then the raker teeth come along like a rip tooth to remove the 'woodchips'. Rare to find the lance toothed saws in UK and from what I've gleaned can be a pain to sharpen and maintain, hence I've settled for the GAT.

Sharpening is just with the large saw file, available from the two retailers (and no doubt others) mentioned earlier. The trick is the sharpening geometry - there's lots of opinions out there. I have my own plan (subject to change ) which I'm happy to share but don't wish to be premature as I haven't yet tried it (another project takes priority and SWMBO's given a deadline ) and tested my theory.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I would stick to the original plan. I'm prepared to accept that there are useable bow saws, but I have yet to find one.

You can buy a new one man or two man crosscut saw from Thomas Flinn, if you don't have the patience to wait for a second hand one to come up. See them made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_qf9QGHfBg

You'll need more cash though. And a saw file. They don't hand sharpen them when the TV camera is not watching, by the look of mine - the teeth were just punched. Works well when fettled though.

I see Mike.S has beat me to it.

 

[Mike.S]

I would stick to the original plan. I'm prepared to accept that there are useable bow saws, but I have yet to find one.

You'll need more cash though. And a saw file. They don't hand sharpen them when the TV camera is not watching, by the look of mine - the teeth were just punched. Works well when fettled though.

+1 for sticking to the original plan.

I paid under a tenner each for the fleabay saws and they crop up regularly - P&P or collection being the catch. It's apparent from the saws I have that buyers don't realise they need to be sharpened i.e. they're sold with punched teeth but need some sharpening (especially fleam) befor use. This isn't made clear by Flinn but is implied by Schmid's site where saws are offered either as 'Standard Finish' or 'Hand-Sharpened Finish'.

To whet your appetite read this.

 

[John15]

My father worked many years for The Forestry Commission and I can remember him felling trees up to about 10" dia. using an axe to cut a bird-mouth (not the correct name) on one side and then cutting from the opposite side with a bow saw. He also brought logs home for the fire which again were cut with a bow saw.

John

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If it's too big for a log saw, do yourself a favour - get a chainsaw.

 

[wizard]

Don’t get a chain saw there will be arguments on here on how to sharpen it

 

[dickm]

Get an old, two-handed saw and find a suitable partner to use with it. Spent many happy hours as a lad on one end of such a saw with my Grandfather. With the right balance and rhythm, the speed of cut was really satisfying. The saw is still in my shed 60 years later, but never really trained SWMBO in its use

 

[Bod]

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/rec ... 22/toc.cfm

The site that will tell you all you need to know.
These one/two man crosscut saws sell well at car-boots, £5-25 range.

Bod

Ps read "Transportation by packstock"

 

[xy mosian]

I was given this saw many years ago. It is used rarely, sometimes filed rip cut, sometimes cross cut - as here. The blade is 36 1/2" long at the tooth tip. I like the weight, it helps the cut, and I like the rigidity of the blade compared with a bow saw.

No prizes for working out/guessing the wood. I haven't seen it at this sort of size very often.

xy

 

[pedder]

I've got one of this:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/BW-Bugelsage-Sag ... 27d16e96ca

They are long and sharp and don't bind even in wet wood.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[aesmith]

Something like this ... http://youtu.be/9AMRSNZffe0

By the way, those "Bow Saws" shown above (we know them as bushman saws), can be made to cut straight if you adjust the set. Also I've had some success by sharpening only the teeth on the side it doesn't want to go.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Bow saws/log saws call them what you will (although to me bow saws are wooden "H" shaped things) are designed to cut easily and quickly - it doesn't matter a jot if your logs have a bit of a curved end.

 

[aesmith]

Bow saws/log saws call them what you will (although to me bow saws are wooden "H" shaped things) are designed to cut easily and quickly - it doesn't matter a jot if your logs have a bit of a curved end.

When you're up a tree or in some other awkward position it's a pain if the saw won't cut straight because it takes more time and effort to complete the cut.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

It also helps if your logs stand up nicely while you split them.

 

[Bod]

Have a couple of those for fettling and, by coincidence, about to pick up three acquired on fleabay. Hopefully, one or two will be quality and rest can be recycled. All have the 'Great American Tooth, pattern, like the top one in your picture.

New versions are available from Thomas Flinn and Dieter Schmid.

I have a bow saw, like the one wizard posted, but find the blade twists in use and has limited depth of cut, hence my quest for a 'proper' crosscut saw to cut tree branches/trunks. From my research so far, the GAT is suited to greenwood, ideally hardwood but will do softwood also. The best teeth for softwood is the perforated lance type which consist of cutting teeth alternating with 'raker' teeth. Former slice the wood at the side of the kerf, then the raker teeth come along like a rip tooth to remove the 'woodchips'. Rare to find the lance toothed saws in UK and from what I've gleaned can be a pain to sharpen and maintain, hence I've settled for the GAT.

Sharpening is just with the large saw file, available from the two retailers (and no doubt others) mentioned earlier. The trick is the sharpening geometry - there's lots of opinions out there. I have my own plan (subject to change ) which I'm happy to share but don't wish to be premature as I haven't yet tried it (another project takes priority and SWMBO's given a deadline ) and tested my theory.

Having had the experience of using a cheap poor quality blade, I can say using a Bacho blade transformed the saw, out of all recognition!
As with all saws, its the quality of the blade, not the handle.

Bod

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It also helps if your logs stand up nicely while you split them.

If they are large enough to merit splitting, I use a chainsaw in first place.

 

[bugbear]

Having had the experience of using a cheap poor quality blade, I can say using a Bacho blade transformed the saw, out of all recognition!
As with all saws, its the quality of the blade, not the handle.

Bod

It important (in a bow saw) that the frame can apply enough tension; a slack blade is a recipe for misery,
even if the blade is of good quality.

BugBear