Best Dust/Chip extractors for small workshop - Advice Please

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wizard9999":8wxl1s7t said:
Markvk":8wxl1s7t said:
i tried to find a 3hp version of this

https://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-366662/cla ... 0wodDlkErA

but have been unsuccessful so far, anyone seen one anywhere?

Mark

I'm currently butchering one of these...

http://www.kendaltools.co.uk/shop/produ ... motor-.htm

If not in a huge rush keep looking at CostCo, I got mine from them at a good price. I believe the Fox 3hp model is a similar price, I.e around £300.

Terry.

Thanks terry, thats a great price. Depending on the info from axi, may go down that route myself. It seems really strange that here we all are concocting our own systems and theres no one in the uk selling all the bits we need!!
 
Hi All, just thought Id let you know were I am at- So went to Axminster today ( I love that shop - spend too many hours wishing I had lots more money - and a bigger workshop!) Anyhow all the staff very helpful and freindly. Well today I bought 3 saw blades - Ripping, Fine - for particle boards with melamine face, and general purpose. Also picked up a heavy duty wheel base to move around Panel Saw. I got the Jet one as Mikefab has- guys at Axminster recommended this one over the Axminster make- also it is rated at 540kg. OK - so now the dust extractor I was recommended the Axminster Trade - CT 90H together with the JET AFS-1000B. I know this may not be the perfect solution - but like someone said earlier I don't think there is the perfect soloution using - especially given the criteria it has to fit here. Anyone have any experience with the Extractor/ Air filter mentioned?
 
It does not seem a bad option, I believe it is one AJB mentioned at the top of this thread. Do I remember rightly that you will be moving the DX to the machine,rather than building the system in? If so I would suggest using 175mm hose to get the best possible airflow, keep it as short as you can (the ribbing on the inside will disrupt airflow) and reduce down to 100mm at the dust making machine (my guess is that like mine your machines will have 100mm ports). If my memory is faulty I would cost out what ducting will cost, the airflow at 100mm quoted seems a bit low but putting 175mm ducting in a workshop won't be cheap - I have just spent nearly £300 on ducting for my DX and that was only 125mm (though about £80 of that was 10m of flexible hose). One other thought, AJB described this unit as having a HEPA filter, it is quoted to retain 80% of 1 - 2 micron particles which is definitely not HEPA but that is still a heck of a lot better that a bag topped machine will give you.

Terry.
 
Hi Terry,

The quote for the spares arrived to make my own fan at a whopping £350!! so it will be cheaper to buy the SIP....

Hows the SIP that your butchering at handling chips? I have a small SIP (750w) and it keeps clogging up when I use my planer/thicknesser I think its due to the grill on the bottom of the fan box. My workshop is 4.5m x 3.3 m and the plan is to put the DX outside in its own shed.
ill duct through the wall and then have a central 150mm duct along the ridge with outlets every meter or so with gates on. ill use flexi to each machine when I use it, ill only run 1 machine at a time, maybe 2 ....

will the 3hp sip be up to this do you think? hows it working for you

chip size
DSC_0001.jpg


fan grill

DSC_0002.jpg


Cheers

Mark
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0001.jpg
    DSC_0001.jpg
    138.8 KB · Views: 1,477
  • DSC_0002.jpg
    DSC_0002.jpg
    136.1 KB · Views: 1,477
I actually started the butchering process before my PT arrived, so crazy as it seems I can't really help with that question. I am still in the process of installing my ducting, which is 125mm, like you getting as close as possible to the machines before switching to flexible which is stepped down to 100mm at the machine. Based on the airflow the SIP had when running 100mm flexible hose all the way I see no issue with 'grunt' as long as there are no serious leaks in the system. I am making my own blast gates and I hope I manage to get those air tight. I'll post some pictures of where I am over Easter.

Terry.
 
Bloke at Kendal tools told me that the SIP 3hp and Charnwood 2hp were very very similar in terms of output and maybe the fox wasn't quite so good.

I bought a charnwood and extract everything to blow out of the shed into the woodland next to the workshop. As i live on a farm I'm lucky enough to be able to do this but I think I will put some sort of thien bin lid between that and the p/t soon as it looks too scruffy.
 
Hi, well for my two pence worth I would say forget perfect dust extraction within a workshop unless you are prepared to spend many thousands of pounds. Far better to just accept that there is only so much that a direct dust extraction system can do and that there will inevitably be a lot of dangerous dust particles still left floating in the atmosphere after any direct dust extraction system has done its best. I personally have invested in workshop 'air change' vented to atmosphere as opposed to air filtering withing a workshop environment.
It's much cheaper and more effective to vent the fine (shop Vac typ setup) air borne dust out to atmosphere than it ever is to filter it and re-introduce the same warm air back into the shop.

I would rather heat fresh air than filter warm dust laden air, so for me, sucking out fine dust and replacing with cool fresh air, beats filtering out harmfull particles and retaining a bit of residual heated recycled air any day.

Obviously this is based upon trying to stay healthy as a Diy, shed or garaged based carpenter using the machines

I think that dust extraction is now a goldmine for BS and scary marketing. Common sense is your best friend if you are just a bloke with some tools in a shed.

Steve.
 
Wizard9999":16bkd61x said:
It does not seem a bad option, I believe it is one AJB mentioned at the top of this thread. Do I remember rightly that you will be moving the DX to the machine,rather than building the system in? If so I would suggest using 175mm hose to get the best possible airflow, keep it as short as you can (the ribbing on the inside will disrupt airflow) and reduce down to 100mm at the dust making machine (my guess is that like mine your machines will have 100mm ports). If my memory is faulty I would cost out what ducting will cost, the airflow at 100mm quoted seems a bit low but putting 175mm ducting in a workshop won't be cheap - I have just spent nearly £300 on ducting for my DX and that was only 125mm (though about £80 of that was 10m of flexible hose). One other thought, AJB described this unit as having a HEPA filter, it is quoted to retain 80% of 1 - 2 micron particles which is definitely not HEPA but that is still a heck of a lot better that a bag topped machine will give you.

Terry.

Hi Terry - yes I will be moving the DX to the machines when in use - I can make my wadkin Panel saw at any size port- as it dosent have any at present see mikefabs post. Also Ill take on board what yu have said and others have said
about the size of the hoses involved. I think as screw painting has said - to get it any where near perfect Id have to spend a considerable amount of money - and yes I understand that you can't put a value on your health
but I do think you have to be practicable too. Now- the question is - do I wait until Axminster have a sale- or just bite the bullet- and cry later when i see it reduced LOL..
 
That's exactly what happened to me, I bought the FM300BC at £399.00 and ten days later its down to £348.95 I complained to Axminster about the reduction and they sent me a £30.00 Gift card, not full recompense, but better than nothing.

Mike
 
MikeJhn":2vjahsg6 said:
That's exactly what happened to me, I bought the FM300BC at £399.00 and ten days later its down to £348.95 I complained to Axminster about the reduction and they sent me a £30.00 Gift card, not full recompense, but better than nothing.

Mike

The chaps in my local Axy told me a couple of months back that the company was trying to bring prices down to compete with some online retailers. I do see they seem to be highlighting lower prices on their website. If that is what they are doing it wuld be a bit cheeky to expect as much sale activity as maybe there was in the past.

Terry.
 
hello,
I have bought a super dust deputy metal version and the drum kit, wich has a 5 inch inlet and 6 inch outlet, and now I´m looking like some of you for a 6 inch blower for it (following Bill Pentz theory of optimum cfm efficiency), but there isn´t much, I have found this

shopware.maschinenhandel-gronau.de/1914/holzmann-absauggeblaese-fan2900

or the bernardo series

bernardo.at/shop/en/wood/wood-working/dust-collectors/radial-collectors.html

but with the bernardo all 6 inch fans are 400V, the 230 V are 4 inches; and the holzmann although it seems nice all metal, 6 inch inlet and outlet and a powerfull motor, I don´t see any information about the impeller size or reviews about it, and its quite expensive to buy it with no opinions.

The other option, following this topic, is getting something like the Jet dc1100A only for the 6 inch blower, as I plan to vent outside.


Very nice forum.
 
An important concept to consider is that motors push air out thru the filter rather than pull air thru the ducting - the resulting vacuum takes care of this. This is important as, because of this, a finer filter will reduce airflow - it takes more pushing to get air thru the finer filter. Added to this, a finer filter gets clogged exponentially faster than a coarser filter - thus the considerable value of the cyclone.

Personally I look at importance as follows - motor horse power first, followed by a good cyclone and then a construction that allows me vent the outlet thru the wall. I agree with other posters' here regarding the outlet - removing the filter from the equation eliminates a lot of problems, especially airborn dust in the workshop.

I bet manufacturers then use poor filters to record their advertised air flow. Airflow is probably a better marketing stat than filtration.
 
eoinsgaff":21byj7w5 said:
An important concept to consider is that motors push air out thru the filter rather than pull air thru the ducting - the resulting vacuum takes care of this. This is important as, because of this, a finer filter will reduce airflow - it takes more pushing to get air thru the finer filter. Added to this, a finer filter gets clogged exponentially faster than a coarser filter - thus the considerable value of the cyclone.

Personally I look at importance as follows - motor horse power first, followed by a good cyclone and then a construction that allows me vent the outlet thru the wall. I agree with other posters' here regarding the outlet - removing the filter from the equation eliminates a lot of problems, especially airborn dust in the workshop.

I bet manufacturers then use poor filters to record their advertised air flow. Airflow is probably a better marketing stat than filtration.

Absolutely convinced many manufacturers will quote the best possible figure for airflow, i.e. biggest possible ducting to the machine with a 30 micron bag filter. Then they will quote a separate figure for air cleaning using an optional better filter. The hope being that most people won't realise they can't have both these things. What I am aiming for is a system that let's me filter when it is colder (mainly winter) and switch to exterior venting when it is warmer (mainly summer).

Terry.
 
I bought one of these: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/record-power-cx3000-heavy-duty-dust-and-chip-e/


All I need to do now it do a duct run to my Mitre Saw, a slit intake for my workbench, a run to my bandsaw, table saw and lathe. Maybe a floor intake to sweep into a well. But that'll have to wait until I finish renovating and decorating my dining rook which will be a 'Steampunk lite' theme. (But I don't do WiP photos because I feel that they are a jinx.)

What's the best way to make 'gates' in the ducting. I plan on using a combination of drain-type pipe and flexible pipe.
 
Penny":1gfpthv3 said:
What's the best way to make 'gates' in the ducting. I plan on using a combination of drain-type pipe and flexible pipe.

Search for 'dust extraction blast gate' on Youtube, lots of tutorials posted.

Terry.
 
I have a single garage with similar machines. I have a Karcher wet and dry vac connected to a dust deputy and drop bin. Works really well. I built a dust collection centre which is basically a series of blast gates you open the one you want and off you go. I now have the vac on a remote after my master / slave socket started playing up.

b7ed384293053bc1bc8e8ae6287ae656.jpg


6ac45e51fa65d8fc7ff9aea4d62bca78.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi All Well, just a update.. and more questions.
Ok so I went from The Axminster CT 90 H - actually had to take the one off the floor. They were getting more in- but not sure when the filters would in- Anyhow also got the Jet AfS 500…so now the ducting - now I will be taking the Extractor to the machine- But taking on board what Wizzard9999 said- to get larger ducting ( Supposed to be 100 mm - but at present going for 150 mm. Plan is to Have about 2.5 meters of the 150mm ducting secured and in situ - one lot by the Lather/Planer Thicknesser, and the other by the saw. Reduce this down to 100mm at the port on machine and extractor ( just the length of what it takes to secure the 150 to the 100 and the Ports. - so no more than 300mm each end using flexi . So..do I use PVC- Plastic ducting or metal? I here plastic can give off a charge.

At the moment I have found this Metal ducting very cheap - what do you folks think

http://www.i-sells.co.uk/galvanised-spi ... t-3m-150mm

Thanks again in advance.
 
mr.alan.":2dayx2uc said:
Hi All Well, just a update.. and more questions.
Ok so I went from The Axminster CT 90 H - actually had to take the one off the floor. They were getting more in- but not sure when the filters would in- Anyhow also got the Jet AfS 500…so now the ducting - now I will be taking the Extractor to the machine- But taking on board what Wizzard9999 said- to get larger ducting ( Supposed to be 100 mm - but at present going for 150 mm. Plan is to Have about 2.5 meters of the 150mm ducting secured and in situ - one lot by the Lather/Planer Thicknesser, and the other by the saw. Reduce this down to 100mm at the port on machine and extractor ( just the length of what it takes to secure the 150 to the 100 and the Ports. - so no more than 300mm each end using flexi . So..do I use PVC- Plastic ducting or metal? I here plastic can give off a charge.

At the moment I have found this Metal ducting very cheap - what do you folks think

http://www.i-sells.co.uk/galvanised-spi ... t-3m-150mm

Thanks again in advance.

I costed up metal versus plastic, the straights were more in metal but the bends, 'Y's, etc. we're less, for me the total cost was very similar. I went for metal in the end and used these guys

http://www.ductstore.co.uk/acatalog/Spi ... ngths.html

The service was excellent, but it was a shade more than the place you have found.

I have finished my ducting installation now, here are a few pictures (note the bespoke adapter on top of the cyclone made for me by none other than our own Random Orbital Bob)






Still things to do. I have just walked in after retiring the extractor to include a relay so I can run it off a remote with no risk of the remote's socket getting fried on start-up. I need to build the filter box, but as it is warming up venting outside will do for a bit and I need to sort out extraction from above the blade on the table saw.

Like you I used the shortest possible piece of 100mm hose to connect to machine ports (cost a fortune in jubilee clips though :lol: )


Feel free to shout if you think there are any questions I can help with.

Terry.
 
Back
Top