Belt sander cable repair help.
- Thread starter roadrunner45
- Start date
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Put a flat connector where the damage is?
If you dont feel able to open up the machine to replace the whole cable then strip the black insulation around the wires and wind electrical tape round the damaged wires....then cut the plug off and slide some heat shrink sleeving over and cover the damaged area with that...heat to shrink...then put a new rewireable plug on
MorrisWoodman12
Established Member
Alternatively (in respect of @flh801978 suggestion) use self amalgamation rubber tape. Wrap around the damaged section, stretching as you do it (the tape not you 
) and the layers of tape blend into one another.
) and the layers of tape blend into one another.
If you don't feel qualified to fit a replacement cable, then one of these will suffice - much better than winding tape around the damage. If that one seems too bulky, there's lots of different designs available if you look on electrical equipment suppliers' websites.
The only correct solution is fit a new cable, that gland is aimed at portable items and for a stationary machine you just need a decent domed gland. Not good to repair a cable in the middle.
If there is enough cable and the power socket is near enough you could just cut and refit the plug.
If there is enough cable and the power socket is near enough you could just cut and refit the plug.
Just for completeness, could we say 'cut and refit a new plug' (because the one in the picture is moulded on and not re-usable)?
Better by far to replace the cable. If you don't feel confident to open up the machine then I would take it to an electrician, can't see them charging much to do that. Or cut the damaged section off, fit a new plug and use an extension lead.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/main...1lhXz5xoQuuG5CFfB2BoCsJoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsIf you do use one of these make sure it is rated high enough for the load and wired with the socket on the live end!
An in-line plug at the break and an extension cable with the female partner would easy to do. Use a flat type e.g. something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/S-M-J-Amp-...n+electrical+connector&qid=1688461339&sr=8-29
There is (was ?) a two pin version as well, but that saw is earthed so get the three pin. They also come in black (or used to).
Using an in-line plug/socket (the sockets being on an extension cord) means easier to move saw around, as no trailing cables. And ensure you use cable of correct amperage (i.e. spec’d to carry the current required by the saw with a little capacity to spare).
Also never wise to buy the cheapest connectors… Masterplug are generally ok, but not easy to find. The above seems to get mixed reviews, but they all do these days, as the more robust versions seem hard to find? But likely it will be ok, unless you really abuse it physically.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/S-M-J-Amp-...n+electrical+connector&qid=1688461339&sr=8-29
There is (was ?) a two pin version as well, but that saw is earthed so get the three pin. They also come in black (or used to).
Using an in-line plug/socket (the sockets being on an extension cord) means easier to move saw around, as no trailing cables. And ensure you use cable of correct amperage (i.e. spec’d to carry the current required by the saw with a little capacity to spare).
Also never wise to buy the cheapest connectors… Masterplug are generally ok, but not easy to find. The above seems to get mixed reviews, but they all do these days, as the more robust versions seem hard to find? But likely it will be ok, unless you really abuse it physically.
Last edited:
John on the Wirral
Established Member
When anyone throws out an appliance out I take it apart and remove the plug and lead - moulded plugs nowadays so very safe. If I damage a lead I replace it with a suitably-rated lead from my stock. Leads from vcuum cleaners are very useful as they are normally long and heavy electric-wise. Any fix on a lead "in the field" is always only temporary. I can't imagine why people call me Skippy!
Glad to know I'm not the only one that does this
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