beading tool and parting tool.

[marcros]

I have bought a secondhand one of these (not cryo)

http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-cryo-b ... s-ax946542

how do I sharpen it? I have a pro edge, or a diamond stone. is it just the top edge that I need to touch up?

I also got one of these

http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-thin-p ... ool-900414

Is it used as per the picture- long point up?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

You just hone the top face. I do mine with a diamond credit card type sharpener, never touch the profiled face. Also when you use it, hold the handle quite high up so the tool is angled down into the spindle and move the wings from right to left to chase out the bead. You get lots of tear out if you just plunge right in.

With the thin parting tool, I also usually hone one facet but given they have no curved profile you can just kiss both surfaces with the diamond credit card hone and it gives a razor sharp point. Doesn't last long mind! Soon as any binding heat gets on it, the edge is long gone.

 

[marcros]

thanks. I will have a play with both.

 

[Dalboy]

When using the bead cutter don't try to go in to full depth leave a little flat on top of the bead

 

[marcros]

And finish with another tool

So that I understand, Derek, can I ask why?

 

[CHJ]

My thin parting tool is used in this orientation:-

I just touch up the lower bevel on the grinding wheel, to the wheel natural contour.
If the lower bevel starts to get over large I will do likewise with the Top Bevel for a few sharpenings to bring the profile back.

 

[marcros]

chas, i presume that that profile would work if the lower bevel was flat rather than the profile of the wheel?

 

[Dalboy]

And finish with another tool

So that I understand, Derek, can I ask why?

Sometimes what can happen if you go full depth is it can tear the grain at the very top of the bead. This can happen more or less depending on the wood in question

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My thin parting tool is used in this orientation:-

I just touch up the lower bevel on the grinding wheel, to the wheel natural contour.
If the lower bevel starts to get over large I will do likewise with the Top Bevel for a few sharpenings to bring the profile back.

If you use it the other way up the edge is effectively unsupported, being so far from the rest.

 

[CHJ]

chas, i presume that that profile would work if the lower bevel was flat rather than the profile of the wheel?

Don't think it makes any significant difference if you sharpened it flat on a ProEdge rest for instance, it's in the realms of curved as opposed to flat bevels discourse and I've yet to be able to tell the difference, so much variation in wood characteristics and tool approach angles I doubt anyone could determine any difference.


The bottom bevel does not need to be long, 3-4mm is enough I find (longer of no consequence) it's just enough to give a bit of bevel support and stop too aggressive a dive into the wood if its rather open grained.

 

[CHJ]

Sometimes what can happen if you go full depth is it can tear the grain at the very top of the bead. This can happen more or less depending on the wood in question

I prefer to use the Ashly Iles version which are sharpened on the front edge bevel because of their longer bevel profile and can be touched up on grinder or with a card and in effect are naturally presented in a negative bevel mode, the same caveat referred to by Derek applies though regarding caution with the very short grained areas at the top of the bead.

 

[Dalboy]

Sometimes what can happen if you go full depth is it can tear the grain at the very top of the bead. This can happen more or less depending on the wood in question

I prefer to use the Ashly Iles version which are sharpened on the front edge bevel because of their longer bevel profile and can be touched up on grinder or with a card and in effect are naturally presented in a negative bevel mode, the same caveat referred to by Derek applies though regarding caution with the very short grained areas at the top of the bead.

Mine is also an Ashley Iles beader and I prefer the way it is made easier to sharpen without any problems

 

[marcros]

mine was £6, i prefer the way that it was priced

 

[Dalboy]

mine was £6, i prefer the way that it was priced

Well you can't complain at. As long as it does what you want that is the main thing. Look forward to see what you produce.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

mine was £6, i prefer the way that it was priced