base for wooden shed

[MikeG.]

Mike Garnham wrote:

I wonder if I should write "Mike's Definitive Guide to Shed Building" and post it somewhere obvious before I get accused of being too repetitive?

Mike



Maybe a stickey at the top of this topic would be a good idea Mike?

I think that is a great idea. A guide to the different type of shed and workshop buildings, design, construction, materials, damp proofing, insulation etc.

A nice project for the christmas holidays, Mike.

Tony.

Sorry Tony.........it isn't going to happen....!!

 

[MikeG.]

Paving slabs laid on sharp sand is adequate for a lightweight timber shed quicker and cheaper to.

the 150mm concrete slab on a hardcore base is complete overkill

The 150mm depends on the area of the shed, but the principal is certainly not overkill if you are looking for a decent long-lasting building. If you are just sticking something up to store the garden tools and some bikes, then it would be unnecessary. If you are building a workshop...........do it once, and do it properly.

Mike

 

[Benchwayze]

Feather edged cladding (Clapboard) is not so 'pretty' as T/G or Shiplap, but it's designed for the job, usually of treated timber and it won't open up due to prolonged exposure to sunlight. (Due south aspects esp.).
Also, whenever a strip needs replacing it isn't so big a problem as with 'mating' boards.
HTH

 

[gedereco]

We have always done bases of 150 mm thick as that is the minimum i recommend to all our clients , in the end of the day you want to put it down once and forget about it for life as it takes about 25 years to get concrete to full strength. it should out last your shed. a bit of outlay and work at the begining is worth it or if you don't want the hassle get a firm like mine to come and do it for you, for a reasonable price that is.

 

[CWatters]

Would be interesting to know typical costs for a professionally laid base.

I decided to do my own. The slab was 5m x 4m x 150mm and I wanted it almost flush with the ground so I could drive a mower in. Site had a 6" slope from one side to the other. It took...

Digger hire (weekend)
Dumper hire (3 days)
Wacker plate hire (1 day)
7T Skip hire
3 bulk bags MOT
1 bulk bag sand
2 bulk bags gravel (drainage around edge)
Stainless steel studding
Membrane
6 x 2 formwork
3 cubic meters ready mix
Two brick courses and DPC

Total cost was >£1,000 but I daren't add it up.

The dumper was used to transport dirt to the skip and concrete back the other way due to site layout. I'd definitly go for ready mixed concrete again. I was concerned about having the hired kit waiting around for days but the concrete co said they could deliver at 24 hours notice and they did. The delivery driver even helped get it placed. I think it would have been impossible mixing that lot on my own even with a mixer. It was hard work just tamping it down and levelling off. The studding was used to make long bolts embedded head first in the wet concrete and will be used to fix shed down later (windy location).

 

[filsgreen]

Have you posted pics of the finished product Colin?

 

[CWatters]

Not yet. Got lots of other stuff to do so may not get the actual shed built until warmer weather.

Some drawings and a photo here ..
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=24724

Discovered I probably should have extended the hardcore over a larger area than the area of the slab.

 

[gedereco]

Hi colin a rough cost would be about £1200 in and out finished in a day the only thing different we would of done would raise slab out of ground and put a ramp upto the doors on shed so any ground water always hits slab and not mortar joints

 

[MikeG.]

the only thing different we would of done would raise slab out of ground and put a ramp upto the doors on shed so any ground water always hits slab and not mortar joints

I presuming that this shed is going to be built on a low brick plinth.....overcoming the point raised by gedereco. Two courses are all that are needed to turn this into a first-rate job.

Mike