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Bark removal

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tim

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The ash from this thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5291&highlight=waney

is now dry enough to be turned into the worktops. There is some bark on the waney edges that is very loose (which I have removed) and some which doesn't look like its ever coming off(which intend to leave). However, there is also a fair amount of friable bark that is pretty well adhered but I am sure is going to come over in strips and threads over time. I want to remove this but I don't know the best way to do it without using too aggressive a technique (and damaging the timber beneath) or taking forever over it (the budget doesn't allow).

There are probably 3 m of this stuff, the timber is c40mm thick and the bark varies in thickness from almost nothing to 15mm.

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Cheers

Tim
 

Jake

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Have you got a Multimaster? Not sure quite how or if it would work, but the scraping action I thought of when reading your post made me think of the Multimaster, having used one quite a lot for a very different scraping task recently.

Jake
 

tim

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Thanks Jake. I haven't got one,
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think it would help since the finished surface is not flat but curves in a variety of directions.

Cheers

Tim
 

Jake

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Depends whether you could chase the loose edge along with the corner of a blade, as it were. If so, the curve wouldn't hinder too much. They are too expensive to buy to experiment with though. You're welcome to borrow mine, but I'm miles away in SE London.
 

devonwoody

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What would happen if you soaked the wood in water for a time (boat builders left timber in water for ages,(before building the boat :lol: ) that would soften the bark.
Don't know if this creates moisture problems though? Perhaps timber experts might comment .
 

Jake

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Anything sharp is going to end up cutting into the waney edge, though, as it is curved in all directions. That's why a scraping/levering action seemed to be the most appropriate, with a dull edged tool.

Tim, can you borrow a Fein from anyone you know? The more I think about it the more I think it would work The oscillations really do make for a very effective scraping action. If you use the corner of one of their scraping tools, you could easily follow curves in more than one dimension, as it were.
 

Taffy Turner

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Blunt(ish) drawknife for me too - I use one for de-barking turning blanks and it works a treat!

If it is too sharp, it cuts into the wood, but if it is on the blunt side, it runs along the interface between the wood and the bark (cambium layer if I remember my O level Biology, which I probably don't!!), and strips the bark without cutting into the wood. Works best used bevel down, as bevel up is a bit too aggressive, and again tends to cut into the wood.
 

tim

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Thanks guys. My drawknife skills aren't fab (blunt or not) but I shall have a go and let you know how I get on.

Jake - sadly there's no one near here I know who has got one. Thanks for the offer though.

Cheers

Tim
 

jasonB

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I've done it on oak before using a chisel with the bevel against the wood to get the thick stuff off then fine tuned the edge with spoke shave & cabinet scraper.

Jason
 

tim

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JasonB":2uof6tja said:
I've done it on oak before using a chisel with the bevel against the wood to get the thick stuff off then fine tuned the edge with spoke shave & cabinet scraper.
How bizarre is that! Thats exactly what I ended up doing this afternoon - works really well. Had one minor 'dig in' but I think I've managed to make it look like a natural defect! :whistle:

Cheers

Tim
 

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