Bark removal

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tim

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The ash from this thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5291&highlight=waney

is now dry enough to be turned into the worktops. There is some bark on the waney edges that is very loose (which I have removed) and some which doesn't look like its ever coming off(which intend to leave). However, there is also a fair amount of friable bark that is pretty well adhered but I am sure is going to come over in strips and threads over time. I want to remove this but I don't know the best way to do it without using too aggressive a technique (and damaging the timber beneath) or taking forever over it (the budget doesn't allow).

There are probably 3 m of this stuff, the timber is c40mm thick and the bark varies in thickness from almost nothing to 15mm.

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Cheers

Tim
 
Have you got a Multimaster? Not sure quite how or if it would work, but the scraping action I thought of when reading your post made me think of the Multimaster, having used one quite a lot for a very different scraping task recently.

Jake
 
Thanks Jake. I haven't got one,
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think it would help since the finished surface is not flat but curves in a variety of directions.

Cheers

Tim
 
Depends whether you could chase the loose edge along with the corner of a blade, as it were. If so, the curve wouldn't hinder too much. They are too expensive to buy to experiment with though. You're welcome to borrow mine, but I'm miles away in SE London.
 
What would happen if you soaked the wood in water for a time (boat builders left timber in water for ages,(before building the boat :lol: ) that would soften the bark.
Don't know if this creates moisture problems though? Perhaps timber experts might comment .
 
Anything sharp is going to end up cutting into the waney edge, though, as it is curved in all directions. That's why a scraping/levering action seemed to be the most appropriate, with a dull edged tool.

Tim, can you borrow a Fein from anyone you know? The more I think about it the more I think it would work The oscillations really do make for a very effective scraping action. If you use the corner of one of their scraping tools, you could easily follow curves in more than one dimension, as it were.
 
Blunt(ish) drawknife for me too - I use one for de-barking turning blanks and it works a treat!

If it is too sharp, it cuts into the wood, but if it is on the blunt side, it runs along the interface between the wood and the bark (cambium layer if I remember my O level Biology, which I probably don't!!), and strips the bark without cutting into the wood. Works best used bevel down, as bevel up is a bit too aggressive, and again tends to cut into the wood.
 
Thanks guys. My drawknife skills aren't fab (blunt or not) but I shall have a go and let you know how I get on.

Jake - sadly there's no one near here I know who has got one. Thanks for the offer though.

Cheers

Tim
 
I've done it on oak before using a chisel with the bevel against the wood to get the thick stuff off then fine tuned the edge with spoke shave & cabinet scraper.

Jason
 
JasonB":2uof6tja said:
I've done it on oak before using a chisel with the bevel against the wood to get the thick stuff off then fine tuned the edge with spoke shave & cabinet scraper.

How bizarre is that! Thats exactly what I ended up doing this afternoon - works really well. Had one minor 'dig in' but I think I've managed to make it look like a natural defect! :whistle:

Cheers

Tim
 

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