Bandsaw woes and Tuffcut blades mini-review

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Steve Maskery

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26 Apr 2004
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Kirkby-in-Ashfield
Yesterday I was in the workshop. First time for ages, and I wanted to make a prototype for a jig modification. So I was ripping some beech for runners and MDF for jiggy bits.

The first thing I noticed was that my rip blade was drifting. I couldn't understand why, as it was a new blade just a few weeks ago, I've not been inthe 'shop much and it can only have been used for a few minutes and cut a few metres of anything. But it was definitely drifting.

So I tweaked the tracking but it had no effect. How very strange! Annoying too. Then there was an almighty Bang, the tracking knob flew across the workshop and everything stopped dead.

My brand new Starrett blade was wrapped round the inside of the machine like one of those children's puzzles where you have to find which child is holding which kite string (despite the fact that a kite string needs to be under tension for the kite to fly, a Physics Phact that puzzle-book compilers fail to instill in their young readers - but I digress).

The 1/2" blade has knackered the pulley belt and I had to cut the blade away. No damage to the body of the saw, though, thankfully. But one brand new blade wasted. I also had to rebuild the tracking knob, which has stripped its thread - goodness knows how, but that was why it was not tracking the wheel.

However, every cloud has a silver lining, and this was a good opportunity to try out one of Ian John's new TuffCut blades. Now there is a problem in reviewing something one has been asked to review, in that some people think that one can't be objective and unbiased. But apart from the fact that I very rarely get given anything to review, even when I do I make it clear that if I like it I will tell others and if I don't I won't. I'm not going to risk my own reputation to save someone else's. So you'll have to make up your own mind on that score.

The blade itself looks very nice. 3TPI, skip tooth, ground body, thin kerf. The last point is very helpful, as it is 5/8" wide. Thin kerf means less steel to stretch, so I can tension it without pushing my saw to its limits. It was properly welded with the teeth running nicely through the weld and cleaned up properly both on the sides and back.

I set it up, tracked it properly and started ripping. It cut straight as a die, with a good surface finish, too. One thing I found was that I could take off just 0.5mm without the blade being deflected off the cut, which is always a good test - cutting only on one side of the blade is something that bandsaws are generally not good at.

I have another two blades to try at some point, a 3/4 thin kerf resaw blade (2 flame-hardened TPI with a smaller raker tooth in between for swarf removal), and a standard 6TPI 1/4 for curved work. Watch this space.

I can say, hand on heart, that I have never used such a good blade, and I'm delighted to be able to tell the world about it.

Ian's a good bloke and deserves support. With so much mediocrity in the world, quality from a small supplier is to be celebrated. He's also a very generous chap, having donated a couple of blades to the Training College in Zambia where I helped out a bit last year. They currently have just one 30mm blade, so they can't cut curves. Ian's blades will give them a lot of extra functionality. Thank you Ian.
 
Wot, no video, Steve? :shock: :D

I was using one of the Fastcut ripping blades on Monday. Ian accidentally sent me a 3/4" blade, which should be too wide for my saw... Yet, with a bit of care to get it running equally on both tyres (the blade and tyres are equal width - also, some thanks due in part for the relevant information on your DVDs! :wink:), because it is only a thin-kerf blade, I could still get it running beautifully. My saw didn't have much trouble tensioning it (it was no worse than a standard 1/2" blade) and the cutting performance was very good and consistent.
 
OPJ":4l9rh2s9 said:
Wot, no video, Steve?

My camcorder is poorly. The Doc says it may not recover :(
I didn't have my camera in the workshop and I was more interested in sorting out the problem than recording it for posterity.

S
 
Steve Maskery":38tgskqw said:
I can say, hand on heart, that I have never used such a good blade, and I'm delighted to be able to tell the world about it.

Ian's a good bloke and deserves support. With so much mediocrity in the world, quality from a small supplier is to be celebrated. He's also a very generous chap, having donated a couple of blades to the Training College in Zambia where I helped out a bit last year. They currently have just one 30mm blade, so they can't cut curves. Ian's blades will give them a lot of extra functionality. Thank you Ian.


I'd just like to second that; I'm delighted Ian is back in business and look forward to buying blades from him in the future - the blades he supplied me with in the past were superior to the (very good) Hakansson silco blades I'd been using for years, and the service I received was second to none...
 
Thanks for reminding me that I need to order some blades - do I need to go out there with some string to measure the lenght or do I traditionally just state the make and model and I'm away?

Given that I will be using the saw to replicate some of the stuff in your video's Steve and I use it to cut bowl blanks (up to 4" thick and max diameter or 12") what blades would you receommend?

many thanks

miles
 
Miles
It should state on a plate somewhere on the machine what the blade length is, but yes, you can use a piece of string :)

Or you measure the Distance between centres of the wheels (D) and the Circumference of the wheels (C) and add them up.

Length = 2D + C

If it's for bowl blanks you don't want anything too wide. I'd have thought 1/4 would be suitable. Given that surface finish is not important go for something fast cutting like 3 TPI skip.

Better still, email Ian and ask his advice. He may have something particular in his range.

Cheers
Steve
 
TrimTheKing":z3j7rw5p said:
I wasn't aware Ian was trading again, must have missed that post, how do I find him?

Dragon were one of the best suppliers I hae had the please to order from so I will definitely use Ian again.

Cheers

God god, wake up man!
 
Thanks for the review Steve. I have emailed Ian for a price for my machine.

I purchased a new machine recently, together with a couple of the manufacturers 1/2" blades. On start up what a racket - crashing and banging through the guides, pulsing back and forth and drift which was difficult to adjust out. New machine, new blade - have I made a poor purchase? So I popped in a blade from Bedford Saw service - serenity, true running, no drift - magic. It just shows that in the end a decent blade made by someone who cares is essential.

Bob
 
I to have used one of Ians TuffCut blades 1/2" x 3tpi thin kerf I tried eight inch thick hardwood and was really impressed I hadn't used a thin kerf blade before and in my mind I thought on thick hardwood I would definitely have deflection from the blade, how wrong I was it cut dead straight and like I was cutting balsa...

Also like Steve I found I could take a slither off an edge which was a bit of a shock, the other thing you will notice is there's less saw dust due presumably to the thin kerf.

I have dealt with Ian a fair while now and like many here I was gutted when Dragon folded, it's great to know he's back trust me you wont be disappointed with these blades!

I have one of Ian's Flame hardened 5/8" blades and it's also cutting really well but I haven't given this such a hard workout so I'll get back when I have...


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Steve Maskery":2g45w69g said:
The first thing I noticed was that my rip blade was drifting. I couldn't understand why, as it was a new blade just a few weeks ago, I've not been inthe 'shop much and it can only have been used for a few minutes and cut a few metres of anything. But it was definitely drifting.

.

the normally advice in this situation is that theres this really good bandsaw dvd you can buy that shows you how to set the saw up and stop that happening.... now what was that guys name again :lol: :lol:
 
big soft moose":3s5f9f57 said:
Steve Maskery":3s5f9f57 said:
The first thing I noticed was that my rip blade was drifting. I couldn't understand why, as it was a new blade just a few weeks ago, I've not been inthe 'shop much and it can only have been used for a few minutes and cut a few metres of anything. But it was definitely drifting.

.

the normally advice in this situation is that theres this really good bandsaw dvd you can buy that shows you how to set the saw up and stop that happening.... now what was that guys name again :lol: :lol:

Steve somebody I think - maybe I'll have a look around to see if I can find something to jog my memory for you BSM :)

Miles
 
seaco":h64pcayx said:
...the other thing you will notice is there's less saw dust due presumably to the thin kerf.

I noticed the same thing with a 3/4in. Fastcut blade. Until you mentioned that, I was sure it was because of how I'd greatly improved dust extraction on my old saw... :oops: :)
 
seaco":3tn6mmi1 said:

Bit OT Lee, but do you happen to know the timber in the two pic's above ?

I have some a bit similar, not sure it's actually the same, and wondered what it was ? The stuff I have is very hard and very heavy, thought it might be hawthorn ?

Cheers, Paul :D
 
seaco":7lnccrmv said:
I hadn't used a thin kerf blade before and in my mind I thought on thick hardwood I would definitely have deflection from the blade, how wrong I was it cut dead straight and like I was cutting balsa...

Also like Steve I found I could take a slither off an edge which was a bit of a shock

The thickness of the blade doesn't do much to change deflection; that's much more a function of the tension on the blade. Width for width, that's easier to get up to proper level of tension with a thin bodied blade, so the improvements aren't surprising (especially if your saw isn't the most rigid).
 
I just received a consignment of new blades from Ian today - some of the thin kerf ones and one of the Tuffcut blades.

I'll post some thoughts once I've had a chance to use them.

Ed
 
paulm, I have a couple of totally different pieces that 'look' like seacos piece.

One is a soft and lightweight, Cedar of Lebanon.

The other which may well be what you have is Hard and Heavy, Sweet Chestnut.
 
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