bandsaw problem

[paneen]

hi all. im new to this forum so hello

iv recently purchased a used bandsaw (Axminster Trade Series SBW3501B) its in really good condition, in fact it almost looks new. iv set it up correctly, all guides in correct places, blade aligned on wheel in center and blade tension is good the problem i have is that the blade sits a lot further forward on the bottom wheel than it does on the top wheel. this sets the blade tracking so far off straight that the fence adjustment isn't adequate to compensate. could it be a naff blade (it does look pretty old), worn tyres or could it be that the wheels arnt aligned properly. any help would be brilliant.

 

[beech1948]

paneen,

Pictures might help.

I would first check to see if the wheels are aligned vertically. That is open the covers, put a straight edge ( piece of ply factory edge) across the two wheels and see if they are co-planar...if not then adjust using the top wheel adjustment.

Second get a new blade from Tuffsaws.

Then check all other alignments

Tension blade to one size further than you are using or even slightly higher.

Retry and let us know.

Al

 

[Eric The Viking]

Ooh, me ME!: get Steve Maskery's excellent "complete bandsaw" series of DVDs for a no-nonsense and correct how-to on alignment. There is a huge amount of complete twaddle out there (especially YouTube), but Steve's stuff certainly isn't.

Broadly you need to do a series of alignments carefully and in order, then all should be well. Step one is getting the wheels coplanar, that is in line with each other completely. That involves what's usually a one-off setting up of the bottom wheel's axle.

After that, everything you've already done applies. You won't get it tracking nicely until the main geometry is sorted out, but once that's right it should run sweetly.

The joke is that Steve's DVDs have become a standard reply on this one. Also get a decent blade from Ian at Tuffsaws. His blades are superb in my experience, not expensive and will transform the saw's performance.

It's unlikely to be worn tyres unless it's been abused in some way. The tyres should be nicely "crowned" (rounded over) reasonably symmetrically. If they're not that will be a problem. I had a quick look at the pics on Axminster's site - there doesn't look to be much of a crown to them, but it's small-size images.

Steve's DVDs; Blades from Ian at Tuffsaws.

E.

 

[Giff]

+1 for Steve M's videos and Ian's Tuff Saws.......his blades transformed my Axminster saw.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well obviously I endorse the above remarks, but then I would, wouldn't I?
You have the basis of a very decent saw there, but it does need a good blade as well as being set up properly. Setup is not difficult, but it is very easy to get it wrong, and it doesn't sound to me as if everything is right.
Get a good blade from Ian and go from there.
S

 

[AES]

Another +1 for Steve Maskery's Bandsaw DVDs.

AES

 

[paneen]

ok thanks everyone for the replys.

im buying blades and dvds rite now. does anyone know how to adjust the bottom wheel on this bandsaw, it doesnt look like u can adjust it and i dont want to go taking things apart that i shouldnt. im going to make a jig up tomorow to check if the wheels are co planar. il let u no the results.

 

[beech1948]

paneen,

Post removed as I got it completely wrong.....I hope it was only a senile moment.

Apologies to paneen for duff information

Al

 

[Steve Maskery]

Paneen
Don't fiddle with the bottom wheel unless you know what you are doing! Watch the DVD first, eh? As to checking the wheels for co-planarity, you just need a straight edge. Again, sit back and relax with a cold beer and watch the box in the corner!


Steve

 

[Steve Maskery]

I would first check to see if the wheels are aligned vertically. That is open the covers, put a straight edge ( piece of ply factory edge) across the two wheels and see if they are co-planar...if not then adjust using the top wheel adjustment.

It isn't often I find myself in disagreement with my friend Al, but on this occasion...

The wheels are probably adequately co-planar. They usually come from the factory OK and don't need to be altered. Of course, if someone else has been playing about, not knowing what they are doing, that's another matter.

But if they DO need adjustment, it is usually the BOTTOM wheel that has to be moved in or out. The tilt of the top wheel does affect the tracking in general, that's what it's there for, but the overall alignment is set by the axle of the bottom wheel. I don't think I've ever seen a bandsaw where you can move the top wheel in or out.
But again, don't fiddle with the bottom wheel unless you know what you are doing.
S

 

[beech1948]

I bow to your superior knowledge.

My large bandsaw is a Stenner from the late 30's and can be adjusted both top and bottom although after initial set up I hav'nt had to touch it for over 11 yrs.

I'll go look at my small Startrite 352 tomorrow and see.

Al

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well at least we agree on the fact that you rarely have to alter it!
S

 

[dickm]

I'll go look at my small Startrite 352 tomorrow and see.

Show-off!