bandsaw dangers.

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sunnybob

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Not sure if this link will work.

Its a very good scary movie about how NOT to use a bandsaw.
Theres no blood, but you might want to know where your clean underwear is kept.

You have been warned.

https://youtu.be/48NvcoqSbRQ
 
Always be aware the direction of a woodworking blade. The force on a bandsaw blade is directly vertically downwards towards the table and is actually the reason why it is one of the safest machines.....unless what you are cutting is not in full contact with the table!
 
... and that blade seemed to take an awfully long time tostop after he switched off.

Jim
 
That's a good reminder. Ok the first time, Ok the second time. Easy to see how he just repeated what felt like the same cut.

So what would have worked best? A V-shaped cradle? Accepting that you can't get to the last little bit when there's not enough to hold?
 
I'm glad I watched this - I think I would have attempted the same thing.

I've said this before, but I think we should have a thread dedicated to videos like these.
 
No, it would have to have a triple x rating and would attract the wrong sort of clientel.

When I do a bandsaw box thats oval (or anything not square) when I slice the end off I always use the offcut curve from the original blank to support the underneath. Apart from the safety aspect, it stops the blade tearing out on the undercut.
 
I often slice uneven chunks of wood on my bandsaw. I had a similar (though no-where near as bad) incident when the blade grabbed and kinked itself ruining the blade and the piece of wood.
After that I decided to try and create a safer method for doing this kind of work. I made myself a bandsaw sled, very similar to a table saw sled with a fence at the back. Not only does this make feeding the wood into the blade much easier, it is also safer since my hands are much further from the blade should something go wrong. The biggest improvement though is that because the wood is "stationary" on the sled, rather than moving on the table, you can use shims to level and support odd shapes, this stops the blade from grabbing. When I am working I have a box next to containing all sorts of offcuts, shims and wedges, after making each cut I move the wood, see where the high and low spots are and then wedge it as required. It only takes me a few minutes to set up the sled, get out the shims and get working, however since that day I have never had a blade grab or get damaged.
 
Rorschach":37iyzu89 said:
I often slice uneven chunks of wood on my bandsaw. I had a similar (though no-where near as bad) incident when the blade grabbed and kinked itself ruining the blade and the piece of wood.
After that I decided to try and create a safer method for doing this kind of work. I made myself a bandsaw sled, very similar to a table saw sled with a fence at the back. Not only does this make feeding the wood into the blade much easier, it is also safer since my hands are much further from the blade should something go wrong. The biggest improvement though is that because the wood is "stationary" on the sled, rather than moving on the table, you can use shims to level and support odd shapes, this stops the blade from grabbing. When I am working I have a box next to containing all sorts of offcuts, shims and wedges, after making each cut I move the wood, see where the high and low spots are and then wedge it as required. It only takes me a few minutes to set up the sled, get out the shims and get working, however since that day I have never had a blade grab or get damaged.


Do you have a photograph of the sled?
 
MrTeroo":1py5ygnq said:
Rorschach":1py5ygnq said:
I often slice uneven chunks of wood on my bandsaw. I had a similar (though no-where near as bad) incident when the blade grabbed and kinked itself ruining the blade and the piece of wood.
After that I decided to try and create a safer method for doing this kind of work. I made myself a bandsaw sled, very similar to a table saw sled with a fence at the back. Not only does this make feeding the wood into the blade much easier, it is also safer since my hands are much further from the blade should something go wrong. The biggest improvement though is that because the wood is "stationary" on the sled, rather than moving on the table, you can use shims to level and support odd shapes, this stops the blade from grabbing. When I am working I have a box next to containing all sorts of offcuts, shims and wedges, after making each cut I move the wood, see where the high and low spots are and then wedge it as required. It only takes me a few minutes to set up the sled, get out the shims and get working, however since that day I have never had a blade grab or get damaged.


Do you have a photograph of the sled?

I don't think so, and it's stored away at the moment. I tend to do a lot of cutting in one go as I put in a coarse blade, set up dust extraction etc and then have a an afternoon of stock prep before a good clean and tidy.
Next time I get a chance I'll take a picture. It is almost identical however to a table saw sled that you see on the youtube these days. It has a runner that rides in the mitre slot, a flat bed and a fence at the back. The "fence" at the front is very small and removable so you can slide the blade in, then screw the fence down which acts as a stiffener either side of the cut in the base. It's very simple, I built it in less than a hour from workshop scraps and has worked great for almost 10 years now.
 
For a bandsaw newbie like myself, videos like this are excellent. I definitely agree that we should have a thread on safety filled with videos like this!
 
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