Bandsaw blade help!!

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undergroundhunter

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Evening all,

I'm after a bit of help with my record BS400. I noticed today that the blade was no longer square to the table so set about squaring it up, upon closer inspection it appears that one side of the blade is perfectly square to the table while the other side is quite a bit out???? I'm really not sure what is going on here and the only explanation I can think of is the table is the issue. Anyone got any Ideas as to how this has happened and how can I correct it?

Square side
33759697140_f150c50b1a_k.jpg


Non square side
33987233022_092aa79acc_k.jpg


Matt
 
The tilt can be corrected just by adjusting the tilting table. If you cant get it by just adjusting the mechanism, then fit thin shims under the bolts retaining the tilt mechanism.
 
Thanks for the reply. The problem is that one side is perfectly square and the other side of the blade is not, I can correct the side that is out but all that does is throw the square side out. Unless I'm missing something shiming the table will just compound the issue.

Matt
 
Had this on a bandsaw a few years back. I just set it up so it was square to left of the blade as this is where I usually would use a high fence.
 
Hum I did this today and its not cutting square either, I;m really confused. Maybe I need to remove the table and start again. The machine is still under warranty as a last resort.

matt
 
have you checked your square for true?

Hold it to a flat straight edge and draw a fine pencil line.
flip the square over and line it up with the line and draw another fine line. If that line is tapered or blurred then the square is not square and thats your problem.
 
Cant hurt removing the table and cleaning up all the fixing points but it would take a lot to pull a table that far out. Good it's still under warranty as I think you may need it.
 
sunnybob":10q8t8xy said:
have you checked your square for true?

Hold it to a flat straight edge and draw a fine pencil line.
flip the square over and line it up with the line and draw another fine line. If that line is tapered or blurred then the square is not square and thats your problem.

That is a very good point, I will try a different square tomorrow and report back.


Beau":10q8t8xy said:
Cant hurt removing the table and cleaning up all the fixing points but it would take a lot to pull a table that far out. Good it's still under warranty as I think you may need it.

I didnt want to contact reccord and look like an silly person because Ive missed something stupid.

Paddy Roxburgh":10q8t8xy said:
It certainly would appear that your table isn't flat. Do you have a reliable straight edge you can put across the table?

The closest thing I have is the blade of my combination square.


Matt
 
In a lot of bandsaws there is a pin, that you have to remove when changing blades... to make sure this does not happen
The table does not appear to be flat.
Guessing from the looks of things, your insert is flush with the table ..
I got a bandsaw for a good bit cheaper than the norm ..This was one of the flaws aswell as the tire was gone.
I am able to wedge a block of wood underneath to flatten the table.
I don't know if I'd do this with a new machine though
Tom
 
I dont believe the table is wonk.
Either the square is out, or the insert is a tad proud and pushing the square out, or the blade is not tight enough.
 
sunnybob":5tabi74k said:
I dont believe the table is wonk.
Either the square is out, or the insert is a tad proud and pushing the square out, or the blade is not tight enough.

The inset does appear to be flush/slightly below the table, I will remove it tomorrow and recheck.

Matt
 
I've found the most accurate way of checking if a bandsaw blade is square to the table is:

- take a 2x4 that is 12-18" long, place it across the table on the 2" side and cut partially into the 4" face
- rotate the 2x4 so that the upper 2" face is now in contact with the table and run the slot that was cut earlier into the blade.

If the slow is square regardless of which way the 2x4 is placed on the table then the blade is square. These youtube videos will give a much better explanation than I can put into words so give it a go to see if it helps.

https://youtu.be/UMimXwUdcd4

https://youtu.be/V5rwOWj2Szs
 
If the blade is at the right tension, the inset plate is just slightly below the table surface and your square is true (which I suspect it it) then the only other thing which it must be is that the table isn't flat. Placing a straight edge across it ought to show any unevenness - Rob
 
So Thanks for all the replies.

no idea":3vu6afnt said:
I've found the most accurate way of checking if a bandsaw blade is square to the table is:

- take a 2x4 that is 12-18" long, place it across the table on the 2" side and cut partially into the 4" face
- rotate the 2x4 so that the upper 2" face is now in contact with the table and run the slot that was cut earlier into the blade.

If the slow is square regardless of which way the 2x4 is placed on the table then the blade is square. These youtube videos will give a much better explanation than I can put into words so give it a go to see if it helps.

https://youtu.be/UMimXwUdcd4

https://youtu.be/V5rwOWj2Szs

Thanks for the links I had forgotten all about the video of Alex from Carter industries, I watched it in full this morning before work.

I have now set the table as per the instructions in the video above using a 12" long piece of 2x4, once I had the blade set I ran the 2x4 through on its edge here are the results.

One side

33321594664_8b029607ce_k.jpg


The other

34164061835_b6ef22e5aa_k.jpg


I think that will do :D

I did check the square and it is dead square when compared with my rabone combination square. I also tried the square again after the set up and it seems its out on both sides, strange.

Incidentally should the blade run perpendicular to the table (back of the blade)? I have seen in some videos that show cutting tenons on a bandsaw this would require the blade to be running perfectly vertical, would it not?
This is what mine looks like it means the bottom cuts deeper than the top.
33779618220_c3da0e4bc7_k.jpg


Would I be able to level the table by shimming to correct this?

Maybe I'm being a little pedantic (hammer)

Thanks, This is why I love this forum so many helpful people.

Matt
 
The front to back verticle is important if you want good cutting. It does not need to be 100percent, but it helps. If the blade does not move forwards or backwards under power, without guides or thrust bearing in position, then its as good as you will get, but tuning for this is important. AS it is in your last photo, the wood will be cut at the lower connection first.

Have you run the blade without the guides and bearings in place and have you measured with smaller blades?
Malcolm
 
Doesn't the squareness front to back not depend on where you have the blade tracking on the wheel as this will bring the top forward or back quite a bit.

Neil

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
My blade is set for the gullets to run on the crown of the wheel. I may have a ply about at the weekend and level the table.

Matt
 
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