Axminster ts250 minimum height cut at 45deg?

[PhilC]

Hi, does anyone know what the minimum height cut I can do at 45degress should be?

I have a new (well not new but not set up yet TS 250) table saw and I want to try and do something like this

But when I try and tilt the blade over at low heights it touches the table top slot side.
Am I trying to do something that can't be done on the ts250?

 

[pcb1962]

Hi, does anyone know what the minimum height cut I can do at 45degress should be?

I have a new (well not new but not set up yet TS 250) table saw and I want to try and do something like this But when I try and tilt the blade over at low heights it touches the table top slot side.
Am I trying to do something that can't be done on the ts250?

If the lowest is not low enough for you could you place a piece of ply of an appropriate thickness under the workpiece?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Take the insert out?

 

[blackrodd]

Hi, does anyone know what the minimum height cut I can do at 45degress should be?

I have a new (well not new but not set up yet TS 250) table saw and I want to try and do something like this But when I try and tilt the blade over at low heights it touches the table top slot side.
Am I trying to do something that can't be done on the ts250?

If the lowest is not low enough for you could you place a piece of ply of an appropriate thickness under the workpiece?

+1 for the above, If you don't have enough adjustment on the rise and fall.
Do make sure the ply is as long as the saw bed for full support.
You may need to shorten the fence, if it cuts at the back of the blade.
Regards Rodders

 

[dejaa]

Hi

I've never used a TS250, but have much experience of table saw set ups. Assuming the saw blade doesn't actually foul the cast iron bed at 45deg. you're in business. If it hits then, well, that's your max tilt!

1) Remove the plastic guide and replace it with a shop made insert probably from plywood. (don't use MDF)

2) Tilt blade to 45deg and slowly raise it from its lowest position so that it cuts a groove through the newly installed insert until you reach the upper limit.

You will now have a guide at your 45 deg,

You can also make other guides using this method to create ones with a very narrow gap (obviously saw blade width) to prevent small "cut of" pieces dropping down and wedging against the blade.

Hope this helps

david

 

[PhilC]

Many thanks for all the advice, yes the blade does foul the cast base at 45deg but I have managed to adjust the blade to be as close as possible to the other side of the opening at 90 deg so it will let me lower it more and tilt over to 45 deg but not all the way down. So by the looks of it my only option is to raise the work piece with some ply or mdf. Not ideal but.............

 

[Phil Pascoe]

" I have managed to adjust the blade to be as close as possible to the other side of the opening at 90 deg so it will let me lower it more and tilt over to 45 deg but not all the way down."
I assume you've adjusted it over when the blade was already tilted?

 

[dejaa]

HI

Pity about the blade catching the cast bed. There is another option, if you were to make a "sled" angled at 44deg. then simply lay your workpieces in this and you will have an automatic 45 deg cut with the blade vertical. make it adjustable i.e. hinged and you will be able to cut at any angle up to 45 with a vertical blade.

David

 

[wcndave]

It seems that the point around which your saw rotates is not correct. the blade should be in same place at 45 deg for any height.

If you put max height at 45, then lower blade, you should see the blade moving straight "down" at 45, ie in line with itself. If it's also moving vertically, like a plane landing in a straight line, whilst coming in sideways... then the machining is not perfect, and you'll have to put something underneath.

For me the absolute easiest thing to do is create a sled from a piece of ply / mdf and run it through against the fence, that then gives you a zero clearance jig. You can put workpieces up against the line, or glue/brad down a guide for repeatable cuts.

 

[PhilC]

" I have managed to adjust the blade to be as close as possible to the other side of the opening at 90 deg so it will let me lower it more and tilt over to 45 deg but not all the way down."
I assume you've adjusted it over when the blade was already tilted?

Hi, no I adjusted it when the blade was straight up at 90 deg as far towards the fence as I could so it gives me a little more room when the blade tilts over towards the left.

wcndave yes I think your right the geometry isn't quite right as when the blade lowers tilted at 45deg it doesn't lower at 45 deg.

dejaaa I could do a sled but the main reason for the saw in the first place was for making 45 degree bevelled (boxing in) sections which will be approx 2 meters long so a sled wouldn't work as far as I could see?

Looks like my only option will be to raise the work piece up all the way along both on the bed and the feed in and out tables. Not ideal.

 

[wcndave]

If you did a zero clearance cut, by putting fence further away, and cutting on the other side, then tack a strip to that at the distance required, then clamp the "immovable sled" to the real fence... you'd want the sled / support piece to be longer than cut so it goes from front to back of saw probably, however that should do it.

Your photo shows the workpiece to the left of the blade, however then you want the fence on the left too no?

 

[PhilC]

If you did a zero clearance cut, by putting fence further away, and cutting on the other side, then tack a strip to that at the distance required, then clamp the "immovable sled" to the real fence... you'd want the sled / support piece to be longer than cut so it goes from front to back of saw probably, however that should do it.

Your photo shows the workpiece to the left of the blade, however then you want the fence on the left too no?

Sorry wcndave you've lost me now, still very new to this. The photo I added originally isn't of my saw just a shot I found showing what I will be trying to achieve. Any links/diagram/photos of what you are describing? a picture is worth a thousand words especially to a newbie. That photo would be the equivalent to looking from the back to the front of my saw if that helps?

 

[wcndave]

your saw tilts to the right then?

 

[PhilC]

To the left looking from the front

 

[wcndave]

so do you want the piece looking like it does in the picture? with a 45deg cut, and then what looks like a spine slot at 90deg to that?

 

[wcndave]

Many thanks for all the advice, yes the blade does foul the cast base at 45deg but I have managed to adjust the blade to be as close as possible to the other side of the opening at 90 deg so it will let me lower it more and tilt over to 45 deg but not all the way down. So by the looks of it my only option is to raise the work piece with some ply or mdf. Not ideal but.............

BTW: how did you adjust the blade to the side? normally the arbor can't be adjusted, unless you shimmed with a washer or something?

 

[wcndave]

You'd make some jig like this:

The left side is so you can clamp it to your fence, as if you're working with long pieces hard to hold with just feed pressure.

then you cut it. If all your pieces are same size, you can work out how to make this cut exactly right

If you have different sizes to do, just make it bigger, then put a shim, or brad nail a strip down to the base for each width of piece you want to do

If you do your maths right, you can work out how far back from the line you'd need to be to cut in the middle. and how much shim / space you need for each width of piece

If you're doing long pieces, really 2m, then you'll get bending, so you probably want some featherboards which you can clamp / screw / bolt to the jig

use rollers or something behind and in front if you need more support.

 

[wcndave]

btw: for through cuts you'd want to do the same thing but with the fence on the other side, so your workpiece isn't trapped under blade. The above one is ok as it's not a through cut. btw: you'd definitely want a riving knife, good guarding and something perhaps to hold the piece against the fence with such long, and therefore flimsy pieces. it could easily skew into the back of the blade.

to be honest, if i was doing this cut i'd probably use a router or a circular saw and a jig.

 

[PhilC]

Hi Dave,
Many thanks for taking the time to help. Sorry my saw tilts the other way from your pics but I get the idea. I managed to adjust the blade by moving the entire motor assembly a little (the ts250 has about 5mm play either way) and then the table top a little towards the blade too, then lined everything back up. And yes I'm trying to replicate both the 45 deg bevel cut and then a 90 deg spline into the bevel. although my work pieces will be approx. 2 meters long 32mm thick and approx. 150mm wide. I did consider using a router at least to do the spline cut but I thought that the ts would be more accurate.

 

[wcndave]

To the left looking from the front

are you sure you've been standing at the right end of your saw ;-)

A 2m long spline? sounds interesting.