Ash for outdoors?

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GrahamIreland

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Hello all, I am doing a custom bench for a cafe close to be.

The base is of metal frames, powder coated.

Im thinking ash in battons possibly 3" x 2" for the seating.

Does anyone know how well ash holds up to the elements?

Graham
 
It's in durability category 5 (least durable), whereas oak is in category 2. Be careful with this chart, as it doesn't run around the "tree" in order. In other words, ash isn't a good idea.
 
It is rated as poor but then it was used on Morris travellers for all the exposed coach work. I guess if its well protected it will be fine like any wood but left untreated will have a shortish life.
 
I always understood that Ash was not durable exposed to the elements, could never reconcile the whys and wherefores of how it came to be used so much for coachwork framing.

I guess MikeG's comment hits the nail, I found this:-
It’s only drawback is Ash doesn’t have a natural durability for use outside unless it has been modified (heat treated or chemically treated). This process is available so if you feel drawn to Ash for exterior joinery work just say the word and we’ll try to find you a suitable solution!
on this English Woodlands Timber site
 
Ash is strong and light and has a flex as well as steam bendable making it ideal for coachwork and frames. E.g Morgan’s. It’s only problem is that it needs protection from the elements as it’s not durable.
 
It'll decay around any screws, bolts or rivets and anywhere that holds water - think where garden tools break when they've been left outdoors for a long time. The end grain that matters far more so than the long grain. There's a very good reason why you've never seen an outdoor bench with ash slats. :D
 
Unless you have an abundance of Ash, oak is a far better solution. If you want something that doesn’t need any treatment green oak would work perfectly. I’ve made garden stuff out of new railway sleepers which per m3 is the cheesiest way of buying it I’ve found. I select out the best sleepers for the project.
 
I wouldn't use ash outdoors - even if kept off the ground on a metal framework. As Phil says, anywhere water can get trapped against the wood for any appreciable time and decay will get established, regardless of coatings.

Besides oak, I'd consider sweet chestnut - every bit as durable as oak and grown (sustainably, as it's usually coppiced - "cut and come again") locally in SE England.

You could also try Accoya, but you may feel its looks (if unpainted) let it down a bit!

Cheers, W2S

PS There are increasing numbers of ash trees round Surrey/Sussex/Kent looking pretty sick these days with Chalara - this may ultimately make ash considerably less plentiful (although a glut of less than perfect timber in the shorter term maybe?). https://www.forestry.gov.uk/ashdieback
 
About 20 years ago I made 2 outdoor benches for a friend. one in ash and one in iroko
The Iroko one is still standing ( or seating) the ash one died within about 5 or 6 years

Ian
 
One critical point that seems to have been omitted in all the responses so far relates to the definition of durability. Specifically, a wood species' durability classification is derived from degradation of the wood over time in ground contact. So, a non-durable classification means a lifespan of less than five years when the wood is, for example, buried in soil as a post. The post will rot at the base and in the ground long before the part only exposed to the weather, which would last probably two or three times longer.

Having highlighted that point (I'm nothing if not a bit of a pedant sometimes, I'm afraid), ash still wouldn't be high on my list as a candidate for bench seat and back slats, although it does traditionally have uses for external artefacts, e.g., spades and forks, sledgehammers and, as already mentioned, Morris woodies, etc. Ash simply doesn't age well when exposed to weather, and it wouldn't last anywhere near as long as a more durable material such as European oak, especially if, like me, when I make wooden structures for outdoors I prefer to apply either no finish at all, or quickly apply a coat or two of linseed oil just to provide a nice colour when the item is new. The linseed oil gives little or no protection really, but it does prettify the item for maybe a year, after which the bacteria, fungi, bugs, etc, just get on and do their thing.

The primary reason for this little or no finish preference of mine is simply down to the fact that 99% of clients will never keep up a regular maintenance routine on something like a varnish finish, even if they swear blind they will, and peeling and flaking varnish is a cause of accelerated wood degradation as compared to never varnished. All of which, incidentally, can lead to customers complaining a couple of years down the line about the quality of the finish, the black marks in and on the wood and its general shabbiness, having completely forgotten their need to maintain the finish on a regular basis, ha, ha. Slainte.
 
Ash is about the least suitable wood you could use. I have seen where in boats it has been in contact with some of the worlds most durable hardwoods and it’s caused them to rot too. As others have said, the cheapest, highly durable option will be Iroko. Opepe and Balau are other possibilities for you. Hope that helps
 
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