advice needed please from hegner owners

[jpw123]

Hi all,

i recently acquired a second hand multicut 1 . Runs well, but even with reverse blades was leaving fuzzies on bottom of piece. I know, i thought, someone as altered stroke length to short for cutting metal. I take the side panel off & yes , link arm is indeed placed/connected nearest to centre to allow shorter stroke. Easy i think, put bolt into other hole.
Thats when problem starts, turned flywheel by hand & bottom arm is hitting flywheel . Is their some adjustment somewhere ? Have checked manual but it just says remove bolt, replace in other hole & away you go. Any advice greatly appreciated,

John

 

[martinka]

John, there should be a small spacer between the arm and the flywheel. Is it still there?

 

[jpw123]

John, there should be a small spacer between the arm and the flywheel. Is it still there?

hi martin, thanks for reply. I checked exploded view on hegner site & not sure if its exactly the same washer, its quoted i think as been 2mm ? Its almost as if the link arm is a couple of milimetres too short & just catching bottom arm on flywheel. i'm wondering if the arm bushes/bolts are a bit worn & allowing too much movement. If no one can help me i will ring hegner & see what they say.

Thanks again for your input,


John

 

[martinka]

I'm not sure what you mean now. Can you get a photo of where it's catching? Mind you, I'm absolutely kn@ckered so I might have a better idea in the morning when i can have a look at my own saw.

 

[martinka]

John, is the bottom arm hitting the main large diameter of the flywheel, or the central boss where the link arm attaches? Either way I am not sure what could be wrong. Does it look as though the motor has been moved at all? Only other thing I can think of at the moment is that the link arm has been changed for a shorter one, but that seems unlikely.

 

[jpw123]

John, is the bottom arm hitting the main large diameter of the flywheel, or the central boss where the link arm attaches? Either way I am not sure what could be wrong. Does it look as though the motor has been moved at all? Only other thing I can think of at the moment is that the link arm has been changed for a shorter one, but that seems unlikely.

hi martin, the arm itself just rubs, taps on the the central boss where bolt goes. i"m going to have another look today & then ring hegner with serial number see if the arm as been replaced incorrectly for my machine before i do anything too drastic. :?

John.

 

[jpw123]

Hi all,

i recently acquired a second hand multicut 1 . Runs well, but even with reverse blades was leaving fuzzies on bottom of piece. I know, i thought, someone as altered stroke length to short for cutting metal. I take the side panel off & yes , link arm is indeed placed/connected nearest to centre to allow shorter stroke. Easy i think, put bolt into other hole.
Thats when problem starts, turned flywheel by hand & bottom arm is hitting flywheel . Is their some adjustment somewhere ? Have checked manual but it just says remove bolt, replace in other hole & away you go. Any advice greatly appreciated,

John

update of photo's to make more clear. its possible to see that the flat of lower arm is touching just enough to remove the blue paint. Not sure how much clearance their should be, i suppose a mil is all it needs. Spoke to a tech guy at hegner today , couldn't tell me how much gap their is suppose to be :?

 

[jpw123]

Hi all,

i recently acquired a second hand multicut 1 . Runs well, but even with reverse blades was leaving fuzzies on bottom of piece. I know, i thought, someone as altered stroke length to short for cutting metal. I take the side panel off & yes , link arm is indeed placed/connected nearest to centre to allow shorter stroke. Easy i think, put bolt into other hole.
Thats when problem starts, turned flywheel by hand & bottom arm is hitting flywheel . Is their some adjustment somewhere ? Have checked manual but it just says remove bolt, replace in other hole & away you go. Any advice greatly appreciated,

John

update of photo's to make more clear. its possible to see that the flat of lower arm is touching just enough to remove the blue paint. Not sure how much clearance their should be, i suppose a mil is all it needs. Spoke to a tech guy at hegner today , couldn't tell me how much gap their is suppose to be :?

 

[martinka]

Looking at the spares section of Hegner's site, it seems they changed the flywheel and the link arm at some point, probably for that reason.

I see three solutions, without buying Hegner spares, but they involve lathe/drill work. First is to get a skim taken off the boss. Second is to drill and tap another hole a mil or two nearer the centre of the boss, assuming it isn't hardened steel. Third is to get another, slightly longer, link arm made. Or you could go back to using the original setting.

According to Hegner, the link arm bearing centres should be 28mm. If that's what yours measures, then the flywheel may have been changed, but this is just guesswork.

 

[martinka]

According to the manual I've got here, the blade stroke lengths are 12mm and 15mm. If you measure what they are on yours it might just throw a bit of light on the matter.

 

[jpw123]

Thanks again martin for taking the time to ponder my problem. I have put saw back to as it was so i can at least use it.
My wife always says i'm like a dog with a bone when i can't figure a problem out it drives me nuts. I've checked everything for wear/slop/movement & can find nothing . I have come to the conclusion that the flywheel as probably been replaced for some reason & i think the answer is to have a millimetre skimmed of it, not sure why it shouldn't be right but who knows, certainly not me The link is deff right, 28mm hole centres & no play in that. If or when i fix i will post my solution.
Thanks again , John

 

[jpw123]

Update to my hegner problem.

I emailed hegner & this is the email i received back. Sound like i may have to remove flywheel at some point & have a skim taken off boss. Or i could just use it on smaller stroke setting, mmmmmmmmm


Thank you for your query.

Unfortunately I am not too sure why this could be happening with your machine, although I do have some theories.

Some of the older machines did have the dog leg type flywheel instead of the current flywheel. This has been discontinued for some years but there is a chance that your machine may have started with it. The dog leg flywheel is no longer available so you may have a machine which has been retrofitted to accept the current flywheel. If this is the case then there is a chance the your current flywheel is not exactly perfect to where it needs to be aligned. This may mean that the flywheel is just slightly off which is rubbing when the machine is taken to the extremes (in this case when you change to the longer movement). Unfortunately the only real fix for this is a new motor as this is the item which will have been adapted (the spindle may have had to have been filed down).

There is always the chance that the lower arm is out of alignment with the rest of the machine.

To be perfectly honest the best way to find out would be for our engineer to have a look at the machine. I can raise a quote for an inspection if you would like. This HM-Inspection would cost £30 and would cover our collection of the machine, inspection by our engineer as well as the return of the machine to yourself. As part of this inspection our engineer will produce a report detailing any issues that he can find as well as an estimate for the parts and labour needed to resolve the issue. This could be considerably cheaper than a replacement motor.

If you would like me to quote for this please get back in touch and I can raise an official quote for you.

I look forward to hearing from you shortly.

Kind Regards

Chris

 

[martinka]

John, is there a label with the date of manufacture on your saw? It might give you an idea of whether your saw did originally have a balance arm rather than a flywheel, though I suppose it's academic really. If you ever float over to the Aire and Calder I live 5 minutes from Stanley Ferry and I can skim the flywheel.

 

[jpw123]

Thanks martin,

I have sent you an email

Many thanks

John.

 

[Cordy]

Interesting thread re various saw depth settings
Last week I bought a small Hegner multi-speed, made 2002

It goes very well but does not cut more than 1.5 inches thick; had to get the Sealey out, that cuts to nearly 2 inches
Is it likely that mine is set to the lesser cutting depth ?
Cordy

 

[Claymore]

...........

 

[martinka]

Interesting thread re various saw depth settings
Last week I bought a small Hegner multi-speed, made 2002

It goes very well but does not cut more than 1.5 inches thick; had to get the Sealey out, that cuts to nearly 2 inches
Is it likely that mine is set to the lesser cutting depth ?
Cordy

Cordy, you can easily check by measuring the stroke length. Stroke lengths on the Mulitcut 1 according to the manual I have are 12mm and 15mm. You could always check by removing the bottom bolt from the link arm and seeing which hole is being used, but don't lose the little spacer behind the link arm,