A different way to assemble a frame?


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Established Member
25 May 2021
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I had to make up a frame with side pieces thinner than the top and bottom so mitres not at 45 degrees. I did my best with a hand mitre saw but wasn't too confident about how square everything would end up so it occurred to me that I could fix all the sides, face down to a cutting mat, using double sided tape. This way I could be sure it would all end up the right size (handy grid on the mat) and square when I glued up to the backboard. I used PVA with dots of CA to hold everything together. There may well be some happy joints but I can deal with those (it is all going to be painted) and hopefully it will end up flat, square and the right size!


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This seems very curious! I'm tempted to ask why the sides should be thinner? It's quite bamboozling.

I'm also curious about your cramp placement, because that's not where I'd have put them - cramping mitres is best done on the joint! And if the second picture is face down, what's on the front, and is it irretrievably trapped in the rebate? :-/
It is complicated! My daughter wanted me to convert a chest of drawers to make a bathroom vanity. It will have a round ceramic sink sunken into a stone or marble worktop. I moved the two middle drawers (of four to above the outer drawers, making the whole thing the right height and making space for the sink waste. This left a gap equivalent to two drawers by 2 and this will be filled with a panel which she wants to decorate with tiles. To make a recess that will fit a 2x4 array of 10.5cm tiles (and gaps for grout) I needed a frame which was wider top and bottom than at the sides.

The clamping is what I could manage without long enough clamps and I am really gluing the sides to a piece of ply rather than to each other. The sides are rebated to take the ply on the back (top in picture) and allow 1cm for the tiles and grout in the recess on the front.

I was not too worried about getting tight mitres because I knew I would be able to sort out any gaps with shims and filler and it will all be painted to match the rest of the vanity.

It has come out as I wanted, the right shape and size to fit its opening. I had to fill a couple of less than impressive mitres but I am OK with that.

Pictures show chest of drawers as it was and as it is now, showing where the panel will go (hinged at top for access to plumbing).


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