How to make a log last?

[bugbear]

After a generous gift by a neighbour, and some sweaty sawing, I have
an absolutely splendid chopping block for firewood.

(that's a thirty inch bow saw, for scale)

It's currently quite green. How do I make it last as long as possible?

My main concerns are
* short term - cracking/shaking/splitting if it dries too fast,
* long term - insects and rot.

Any advice on getting 20 years or more use out of this wondrous lump gratefully received.

BugBear

 

[bourbon]

Don't take it inside! leave it in garage or shed. Don't cover it with polythene as you will trap the moisture. The carpenter in our medieval group has such a log, we refer to it as his medieval 'workmate' the top has been hammered and that seems to have sealed the end grain, It lives in a trailer when we aren't on a show, but when we are, It's left outside and It does get wet sometimes. I think it's elm or oak. I'll find a picture and post it

 

[bourbon]

https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/ ... e=59A80AB5 Our Captain like an axe or two

The log I was on about is by his right elbow, The long thing further to the left of picture is a 'chevaux' Not sure if I have spelt that right, It's an early clamp.

 

[bugbear]

https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/527721_252936674806824_943923703_n.jpg?oh=5a231ea12e5543f64c13aded804a3e52&oe=59A80AB5 Our Captain like an axe or two

The log I was on about is by his right elbow, The long thing further to the left of picture is a 'chevaux' Not sure if I have spelt that right, It's an early clamp.

19th century looking axes, but then getting proper early repro ones is expensive!

BugBear

 

[Bm101]

Why bother BB? I know we're all different but to me it's a log to chop other logs on. When it's wrecked in a few years, get another one. There's about 30 in the wood behind my house at the moment from some council felling. I can post them if you want.

 

[bourbon]

We admit, most are, but there are a couple of fire welded ones, A purpose made side axe to a medieval illustration, and the coopers adze is a 'bitted' piece which we use to demonstrate to the public how steel was used for the cutting edge and Iron was used for the body.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Slightly more seriously...you need to seal the end grain (from which it will lose moisture very quickly, the uneven stresses of which cause the cracking). Old pva will do or even emulsion paint. Wax is the Rolls Royce but entirely unnecessary. keep it in a shaded spot, preferably North facing...basically any/all measures to slow down the loss of moisture via the cut end grain surfaces. You wont stop it cracking entirely but you might save it such that it doesn't split really badly. You do realise you've picked EXACTLY the wrong time of year to do this. Should be mid winter ideally.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I have an absolutely splendid chopping block for firewood.
It's currently quite green. How do I make it last as long as possible?
My main concerns are
* short term - cracking/shaking/splitting if it dries too fast ...
* long term - insects and rot.
Any advice. BugBear

Pentacryl. Personally I think at the prices outlined at the link Pentacryl is something of a ring puckering waste of money just for a workaday chopping block, but it should do what you're looking for. I'd just chop away on what you've got without bothering too much about splitting until it's no good any more, and then find another log.

I suppose, whilst the piece is still green and freshly cut you could force your log to split in just one place of your choosing by making a lengthways saw kerf from the bark down to the pith (chainsaw maybe?), or at least as near as you can judge the position of the pith. That way the inevitable shrinkage (whatever you do to try and prevent or minimise it) assuming the Pentacryl treatment is rejected, will cause the saw kerf to open leaving the rest of the log whole ... hopefully, ha, ha. Slainte.

 

[bugbear]

I want this log to last, because it's massive (12" diameter at the top), and I don't have a supply of it/them.

BugBear

 

[dickm]

Don't want to be a wet blanket, but if you want a chopping block to last, then you really need something with much wilder grain than that beast. Ideally elm, but even softwood trunks with lots of side branches (i.e., knots) will last a while. One overenthusiastic chop with a good axe and that lovely piece will be split very neatly.
If you use a lot of firewood (we have a woodburning stove as the main heat source) one season of regular use is a realistic target for a block.

 

[No skills]

Any metal workers close to you that can make a couple of adjustable steel straps? Could treat the stump like the end of a Japanese chisel with recessed hoops.

 

[Chrispy]

Knock loads of 6" nails into it, it probably won't stop it splitting but will make you careful with your axe.

 

[bugbear]

Don't want to be a wet blanket, but if you want a chopping block to last, then you really need something with much wilder grain than that beast. Ideally elm, but even softwood trunks with lots of side branches (i.e., knots) will last a while. One overenthusiastic chop with a good axe and that lovely piece will be split very neatly.
If you use a lot of firewood (we have a woodburning stove as the main heat source) one season of regular use is a realistic target for a block.

Agreed - I buy my firewood hydraulically split, and kiln dried, ready to burn. I used to buy it "whole"
but my lower back objected.

The block is just for kindling and Underhill style woodwork.

BugBear

 

[AJB Temple]

I have about 40 of these lying about behind one of my sheds. Very few have split. They are from trees felled a few years ago and they are extremely resistant to axe attack! I wouldn't worry about it much. Let the wood harden off.