solid wood drawer bottom questions

[thetyreman]

I've been making a workbench drawer that fits into the apron,

I'm going to make a solid wood drawer bottom but have not made slips in this case because the sides are quite thick at 16mm, do I have the long grain running from side to side? how much should it stick out at the back? I was thinking of making a slot with a brass screw so it can move, one last question do I glue the bottom into the front or just leave it floating?

 

[AndyT]

Disclaimer - these answers are from books / old furniture - most of the drawers I have made have been described in great detail on here and there haven't been very many of them.

1 The norm is to have the grain running across the width, so any tendency to sag is resisted by the strength of the wood side to side. (Very old furniture had the grain front to back, but ignore this unless you are faking antiques.)
2 It doesn't need to stick out any more than it is likely to shrink, but it can do if there is room.
3 Opinions differ about the usefulness of a screw at the back. Some makers like it and are presumably careful to make sure that the screw is not so tight as to resist movement and defeat its purpose. Others say it makes splitting more likely. I say it depends on the type, thickness and quality of the timber and how heavy the contents are going to be.
4 Just glue it at the front.


And I am sure it will be neat and tidy like the rest of your work!

 

[Jacob]

For a work bench you can do it how you like. Simplest is to nail the bottom to the 4 sides. A false (or rebated) front could cover the join. Helps to have the drawer sitting on runners so the bottom can't drop out. I've got an ancient Welsh table done like that and it works perfectly - nails punched in a bit so they don't abrade the runners.
The screw in the slot is a dud idea. Never seen in old furniture, probably invented by R Wearing.