merlin
Established Member
Firstly I would like to thank Sheffield Tony for inspiring me to make this chair in the first place, I was asked to make a chair and after reading his post it made my mind up for me.
American Black Walnut was the colour that I wanted so I selected some sizes that suited, I had to join the seat as nothing was wide enough but the legs etc. were all ok.
I decided to machine and construct a trial chair first out of off cuts as the timber was quite expensive and I didn't want any mistakes plus I wanted to put in a few different features of my own.
Jack Hills design was the starting point and very useful but I soon realised as Tony did that some of the angles were a bit out.
I made up a seat out of joined 9x1 par and had my first attempt at hollowing the seat using a gouge, this proved hard work so I bought a Veritas Pull shave and a Windsor chairs Travisher, they were both fantastic tools to use and gave great results.
I joined the Walnut seat and hollowed it out using the new tools and it was much easier, I finished it off with a Random orbital sander being careful not to loose the sharp edges.
Next was cutting and finishing the arm bow, I dowelled the 2 halves together as I found it easier to drill the spindle holes without the back scroll fitted
With the holes drilled (using a pillar drill and hinged table) I fitted the back scroll and rounded off the edges etc.
Then for something I haven't attempted before.... carving. I followed the Chris Pye book and once it was marked out and a trial piece completed I didn't find it too difficult but I must get some proper carving chisels.
The turning was all straight forward once I had decided on the actual shapes.
Then to drill the seat, straight forward again but because I had made a trial chair it showed me that the angles in the book were a bit out so easily remedied.
The Portcullis was a bit more difficult but as it was not fixed to much, the wood part was ok but welding the chain and the rings was a bit more of a challenge. Once the main parts were completed it had to be fixed together and mounted to the back.
At last it was a case of putting it all together and finishing, the finish was Satin Osmo Polyx oil and I was pleased with the end result.
I sanded the chair down with 600 wet and dry before the first coat, the tin recommends to not go that fine but I didn't like the scratches with the 240/320.
After a day I again went with the 600 and gave it a tickle with some wire wool and then the top coat. After some advice and research from the other thread I decided 2 coats were enough particularly as it was a present for the next day!
Merlin
American Black Walnut was the colour that I wanted so I selected some sizes that suited, I had to join the seat as nothing was wide enough but the legs etc. were all ok.
I decided to machine and construct a trial chair first out of off cuts as the timber was quite expensive and I didn't want any mistakes plus I wanted to put in a few different features of my own.
Jack Hills design was the starting point and very useful but I soon realised as Tony did that some of the angles were a bit out.
I made up a seat out of joined 9x1 par and had my first attempt at hollowing the seat using a gouge, this proved hard work so I bought a Veritas Pull shave and a Windsor chairs Travisher, they were both fantastic tools to use and gave great results.
I joined the Walnut seat and hollowed it out using the new tools and it was much easier, I finished it off with a Random orbital sander being careful not to loose the sharp edges.
Next was cutting and finishing the arm bow, I dowelled the 2 halves together as I found it easier to drill the spindle holes without the back scroll fitted
With the holes drilled (using a pillar drill and hinged table) I fitted the back scroll and rounded off the edges etc.
Then for something I haven't attempted before.... carving. I followed the Chris Pye book and once it was marked out and a trial piece completed I didn't find it too difficult but I must get some proper carving chisels.
The turning was all straight forward once I had decided on the actual shapes.
Then to drill the seat, straight forward again but because I had made a trial chair it showed me that the angles in the book were a bit out so easily remedied.
The Portcullis was a bit more difficult but as it was not fixed to much, the wood part was ok but welding the chain and the rings was a bit more of a challenge. Once the main parts were completed it had to be fixed together and mounted to the back.
At last it was a case of putting it all together and finishing, the finish was Satin Osmo Polyx oil and I was pleased with the end result.
I sanded the chair down with 600 wet and dry before the first coat, the tin recommends to not go that fine but I didn't like the scratches with the 240/320.
After a day I again went with the 600 and gave it a tickle with some wire wool and then the top coat. After some advice and research from the other thread I decided 2 coats were enough particularly as it was a present for the next day!
Merlin
