Your favourite table saw jig?

[Monkey Mark]

After recently obtaining my first table saw I have been trawling the internet and youtube for ideas of jigs/s to make. Obviously there are hundreds out l there.

So, which are your favourites and why?

 

[JakeS]

So, which are your favourites and why?

The humble cross-cut sled, because it's almost certainly the most useful!

(And because the mitre gauge on my table saw is rubbish.)

 

[JanetsBears]

This mitre jig by Steve Ramsey is high on my list because of its simplicity, ease of construction and surprising accuracy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H00prACPflw

I like jigs that don't take an age to construct

Chris

 

[Ghengis]

cross cut sled, always in use

 

[Rhossydd]

This mitre jig by Steve Ramsey is high on my list because of its simplicity, ease of construction and surprising accuracy:

That jig might be fine for jointing frame components at 90deg, but a lot more care would be needed to make it a proper mitre jig that could cut a 45deg cut reliably.

 

[fluffflinger]

Cross cut sled in several sizes, they are an absolute must. I have three in various sizes.

 

[woodbrains]

This mitre jig by Steve Ramsey is high on my list because of its simplicity, ease of construction and surprising accuracy:

That jig might be fine for jointing frame components at 90deg, but a lot more care would be needed to make it a proper mitre jig that could cut a 45deg cut reliably.

Hello,

Yes, it is not necessarily an accurate 45deg the jig cuts, but a total of 90 deg divided by two. They could individually be 44 and 46, which is OK for some jobs, but and accurate 45 would be better. However, Ramsay missed a simple opportunity to ensure 45 degree accuracy. Instead of gluing the LHS fence as he did first, he should have glued the RHS one first, which could be set at an accurate 45 degrees by using his drafting triangle against the rip fence. The rip fence was, after all, his reference for cutting the baseboard square and setting the runners, in the first place. The rest of the assembly could have continued as he did.

Mike.

 

[Monkey Mark]

This mitre jig by Steve Ramsey is high on my list because of its simplicity, ease of construction and surprising accuracy:

That jig might be fine for jointing frame components at 90deg, but a lot more care would be needed to make it a proper mitre jig that could cut a 45deg cut reliably.

Hello,

Yes, it is not necessarily an accurate 45deg the jig cuts, but a total of 90 deg divided by two. They could individually be 44 and 46, which is OK for some jobs, but and accurate 45 would be better. However, Ramsay missed a simple opportunity to ensure 45 degree accuracy. Instead of gluing the LHS fence as he did first, he should have glued the RHS one first, which could be set at an accurate 45 degrees by using his drafting triangle against the rip fence. The rip fence was, after all, his reference for cutting the baseboard square and setting the runners, in the first place. The rest of the assembly could have continued as he did.

Mike.

You make a very good point, certainly worth keeping in mind.

 

[JanetsBears]

This mitre jig by Steve Ramsey is high on my list because of its simplicity, ease of construction and surprising accuracy:

That jig might be fine for jointing frame components at 90deg, but a lot more care would be needed to make it a proper mitre jig that could cut a 45deg cut reliably.

Hello,

Yes, it is not necessarily an accurate 45deg the jig cuts, but a total of 90 deg divided by two. They could individually be 44 and 46, which is OK for some jobs, but and accurate 45 would be better. However, Ramsay missed a simple opportunity to ensure 45 degree accuracy. Instead of gluing the LHS fence as he did first, he should have glued the RHS one first, which could be set at an accurate 45 degrees by using his drafting triangle against the rip fence. The rip fence was, after all, his reference for cutting the baseboard square and setting the runners, in the first place. The rest of the assembly could have continued as he did.

Mike.

To be honest, I didn't take that much notice of the video during construction, I'd watched it in comfort in the house then just went out to my workshop and made the jig from memory, roughly following the basic idea.

Cutting the baseboard square and setting the runners parallel to edge of the board isn't a requirement. The baseboard could be Peppa Pig shaped if you like - it makes no difference to the operation of the jig if the edges of the board are straight, scalloped or have Peppa's hand sticking out of them. In my opinion, the rip fence isn't as good a reference as the blade. Yes, it should be lined up perfectly to the blade but if it's not, any error will show in the mitre jig too. I used a triangle against my blade to set the 45 degrees, but I clamped a straight edge against the triangle, adjusting until it was as near perfect as my old eyes allow, then set the left hand fence against the straight edge.

Chris

 

[woodbrains]

To be honest, I didn't take that much notice of the video during construction, I'd watched it in comfort in the house then just went out to my workshop and made the jig from memory, roughly following the basic idea.

Cutting the baseboard square and setting the runners parallel to edge of the board isn't a requirement. The baseboard could be Peppa Pig shaped if you like - it makes no difference to the operation of the jig if the edges of the board are straight, scalloped or have Peppa's hand sticking out of them. In my opinion, the rip fence isn't as good a reference as the blade. Yes, it should be lined up perfectly to the blade but if it's not, any error will show in the mitre jig too. I used a triangle against my blade to set the 45 degrees, but I clamped a straight edge against the triangle, adjusting until it was as near perfect as my old eyes allow, then set the left hand fence against the straight edge.

Chris

Hello,

Indeed, but why make life difficult? in the ripfence, you have a longer and more convenient reference, parallel to the saw blade, to which the runners are set and the miter wings can be set. Using the blade, which is only about 4 inches of usable lenght is OK, but why ignore the longer, rigid, more convenient reference surface, to use a shorter one, which moves and has teeth in the way? Blades aren't always truly flat, either.

Mike.

 

[JanetsBears]

Indeed, but why make life difficult? in the ripfence, you have a longer and more convenient reference, parallel to the saw blade, to which the runners are set and the miter wings can be set. Using the blade, which is only about 4 inches of usable lenght is OK, but why ignore the longer, rigid, more convenient reference surface, to use a shorter one, which moves and has teeth in the way? Blades aren't always truly flat, either.

Mike.

Hi Mike,

You appear to be assuming that the ripfence is guaranteed to be parallel to the blade, which it is not.

Chris

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

It should be, Ramsay certainly set his up to be, mine is and it is something that should be remedied if it isn't. Heeling and toeing due to lack of parallelism leads to rough cuts, reduces the available power to make the cut and in some instances can be dangerous. In any event, the saw cut WILL be parallel to the rip fence even if the blade is slightly out. Think about it.

Mike.

 

[ACF]

Nobody mentioning a tenoning jig? Having seen "Norm" rattle of tenons with repetitive ease I was keen to get a jig like his when I had lots of tenons to cut. Found the jig available in UK but always out of stock so made my own out of some hardwood offcuts and a quick action clamp. Just slides on the fence and it's a quick job to reverse the workpiece so you are always cutting away from the fence. Either nibble to tenon away or trim on the bandsaw.

 

[Steve Maskery]

At the risk of stating the obvious, my favourite jig is the Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig. I've yet to find anything that comes close to it. As well as being accurate (plenty of others are too), it is quick to set up, quick to use and is fully guarded. Plus, I can have the tenon anywhere I like within the thickness of the workpiece, central or off-centre, so that when I make a face-frame, there is no cleaning up to do, bar wiping off any squeeze-out, the surfaces are perfectly flush.

I also agree with the point made above that the fence should be parallel to the blade. Absolutely. If it isn't, the saw needs fettling.

 

[lurker]

Steve, could you tell me we I might find details of this jig, perchance?

 

[Steve Maskery]

LOL! Number 3, Jim, Number 3.
There is a clip on YT, but it is really a sales clip, it's not a how-to-make-it.
But when I go I know that I have left behind something excellent for mankind.