Year 2

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Like the crispness of the lines on the goblet Pete, designed for a tipple accompaniment to a tall story no doubt.
 
Like them both,Pete - the ash bowl has a lovely colour and figure to it,and the slender proportions of the beech goblet give it an elegant grace :D

Andrew
 
Paul.J":jroeeioj said:
Bodrighy wrote
I want to do another of those globe thingy's
What is that Pete :?:
Sounds interesting.Will look forward to seeing what you turn out. :D

One of these Paul.


I've done a few now and find them fun to do as it means hollowing, trying to get a decent sphere and doing the fiddly bits for the finial and the leg whilst getting it all in proportion. Haven't managed to my satisfaction yet but I'll get there.

Meanwhile......

Sue bought me this bubinga to do a platter

12" dia. waxed


Not sure why the part where the tenon was is darker....anyone got any ideas?

Pete
 
Not sure why the centre of the platter is darker but I like the platter. Lovely figuring.

Was the centre finished to the same standard as the rest before you applied the finish? Was the finish applied all at once or did you apply it to the centre after the rest had been applied and dried?
 
Bodrighy":38b9qrc1 said:
Paul.J":38b9qrc1 said:
Bodrighy wrote
I want to do another of those globe thingy's
What is that Pete :?:
Sounds interesting.Will look forward to seeing what you turn out. :D

One of these Paul.


I've done a few now and find them fun to do as it means hollowing, trying to get a decent sphere and doing the fiddly bits for the finial and the leg whilst getting it all in proportion. Haven't managed to my satisfaction yet but I'll get there.

Meanwhile......

Sue bought me this bubinga to do a platter

12" dia. waxed


Not sure why the part where the tenon was is darker....anyone got any ideas?

Pete

Pete , you mut have the most photographed fence in the world :p

Nice work , keep it up :wink:
 
Pete":1x4axi35 said:
Not sure why the part where the tenon was is darker....anyone got any ideas?

Just a thought, I assume you finished the platter on the lathe with wax and so on, then probably took off the spigot and finished sanding and waxing by hand? You should spend more time on the finishing with the sand paper.

Generally the rougher the finish the darker the surface shows when polished/sealed. It doesn't have to feel rough to the hand either. If you finished sanding with the lathe running, ie: circular sanding. Then sanded the spigot area with the grain, that could be your reason for the change in colour. Also the spigot area could be higher than the surrounding area, and shows up in the light angle.

Then only a fellow turner would pick it up to look underneath, so don't let any near it. Problem solved! :lol:
 
TEP":1py32vma said:
Pete":1py32vma said:
Not sure why the part where the tenon was is darker....anyone got any ideas?

Just a thought, I assume you finished the platter on the lathe with wax and so on, then probably took off the spigot and finished sanding and waxing by hand? You should spend more time on the finishing with the sand paper.

Generally the rougher the finish the darker the surface shows when polished/sealed. It doesn't have to feel rough to the hand either. If you finished sanding with the lathe running, ie: circular sanding. Then sanded the spigot area with the grain, that could be your reason for the change in colour. Also the spigot area could be higher than the surrounding area, and shows up in the light angle.

Then only a fellow turner would pick it up to look underneath, so don't let any near it. Problem solved! :lol:

Thanks Tam, you could well be right re the sanding. Though I finished both to the same grade, I am sure that the sanding of the spigot wasn't as good mailnly because by the time I get to that point I have a tendency to want to get it finished. It isn't higher so that isn't the problem. Must be more disciplined with my finishing :cry:

Pete
 
Pete, did you remember to seal it? could be that the wax solvents have penetrated the wood and are taking longer to dry out.
 
Mornin' Pete.

Just a thought when reverse chucking to remove the spigot. If you turn the whole foot area into a shallow dish shape it can help to disguise any slight change in reflections. So all looks good. It don't need much, just a slight hollow.

Should have thought of suggesting this before. :roll:
 
Found some dry oak so had a quick go at a platter and a bowl

Sorry about the photography but
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They're a bit small





Pete
 
"Credit where Credits due" or something similar, might have known that a move to miniatures was on the cards at some time.
 
Nice bowl... platter's a bit thick though :lol:

...only the small minded save trees :p
 
What with SWMBO getting me packing boxes and having to nip down to Cornwall to sort things out that end I haven't had much time in the shed since finishing work. Managed to get in for an hour or so and produce this. A bit of an experiment in design that proved that I need to get a decent hollowing tool if I want to do things like this. I reached as deep as I could but it's still thicker than I'd like Especially where I've hollowed up under the rim .

Beech: 4 1/2" dia, 3" tall approx 3/8" thick overall.



As usual sorry about the photography. I really must sort that out

Pete
 
Different Pete.
Makes me wanna go and buy a pack of ring dougnuts when i look at it :lol:
What tool did you use to do the undercut :?:
 
Thanks guys....at least it's different to the normal apples & pears :lol:

As it's fairly small most of it was dug out with a bowl gouge but I used a swan neck tool to do the undercut. No matter how I have used it I always get a fair bit of chatter when it it gets deeper. You have to make sure that the straight part of the tool is on the rest which means a fair part of it is unsupported and I think it is too light for the job personally.

Pete
 
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