Writing Desk

[DavidE]

I posted on the design forum a while back about a design for a writing desk.

Well I've finally finished the desk and taken some photos I didn't take many WIP photos as I've not got much room at the moment!
It uses the Blumotion runners which I also got some help on from posts on the forum.

Here's the pictures - thanks to the forum again for the help along the way.
The wood is Pitch Pine (from recycled Pews). The finish is more polished, however, I used a Polarising filter to cut the nasty reflections out.

Cheers
David

 

[OPJ]

That pitch pine looks almost... Beautiful, for a softwood!

Looks like you've put some old timber to very good use - I really like it! :wink:

 

[Waka]

Excellent design and excellent outcome, really nice.

 

[OPJ]

I also like the way you've used the same length of timber for the front rail! :wink:

 

[harryc]

Really like the slim line design well done.

Are those tapered legs?

Harry

 

[Raggy]

Very nice, I hope to be able to make things that look that good some day.

 

[wizer]

Oh I really like that. Totally missed it was recycled pitch pine, just shows that softwood can look lovely. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Corset]

Very elegant and classy. Sort of design I wish I could do.

 

[woodbloke]

Lovely simple and elegant design...great timber too. Pitch pine is great stuff to use as long as you have a top class regime for removing the resin off tools :wink: Unless the drawer base is veneered then the grain is the wrong way and you may well have trouble later with shrinkage problems. I might be inclined to remake the base (if you have any spare timber) so that it's orientated correctly (ie turned thru' 90deg) - Rob

 

[GCR]

Very nice indeed - I rather like pitch pine. When I was trained, there were two schools of thought regarding grain direction for the base of the drawer. If you go with your direction you need a good groove in the sides to allow for movement (quadrant if often used to increase the depth). Otherwise its expansion slots at the back of the drawer for the screws securing the base (if you go for grain at 90 deg. to your design).

Bob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Very nice indeed =D>

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[frugal]

What does the sign say in the back of the drawer?

 

[woodyone]

The pitch pine really suits the design and feel of the table i like it alot well done =D>

Woody.

 

[DavidE]

Thanks for all the replies and nice comments. To pick up on the questions and also to ask some questions myself...

I also like the way you've used the same length of timber for the front rail!

Thanks OPJ - I cut it 1/4" too long to allow for the 3mm saw kerf and then hoped I didn't cock it up!

Are those tapered legs?

Hi Harry, yes they are. They are just over 1.5"at the top and go down to about 7/8" I think. I made a jig for the table saw to cut them.

Lovely simple and elegant design...great timber too. Pitch pine is great stuff to use as long as you have a top class regime for removing the resin off tools Unless the drawer base is veneered then the grain is the wrong way and you may well have trouble later with shrinkage problems. I might be inclined to remake the base (if you have any spare timber) so that it's orientated correctly (ie turned thru' 90deg) - Rob

Hi Rob, thanks I know what you mean about the Resin. I am forever cleaning the rollers on my thicknesser. Considering this wood has been made into stuff for at least 130 years some of the pieces are probably as sticky as the day they were cut!

I'm a bit confused about the drawer grain being the wrong way... I thought it looked the best that way and I also figured it was the shortest distance for it to expand across the grain? The piece of wood is solid and sits in a 6mm deep groove on all four sides. I think there is about a 2mm gap for expansion. I also did the Krevnov trick picked up from your cabinet post of glueing in the middle. The other thing that I hope works in my favour is the fact the wood is well seasoned as mentioned above!

I think what I've just described is what Bob/GCR suggested as the way to do it with the grain. For info the drawer is dovetailed at both ends and has no fasteners other than the runners sitting underneath. Am I still missing something here? (I hope not as I delivered it yesterday to its new owner)!

What does the sign say in the back of the drawer?

Frugal - it says "
Made from Pitch Pine Pews from
[name of church]
DGE MMVIII
"

Thanks again
David

 

[woodbloke]

David E wrote:

I'm a bit confused about the drawer grain being the wrong way... I thought it looked the best that way and I also figured it was the shortest distance for it to expand across the grain? The piece of wood is solid and sits in a 6mm deep groove on all four sides. I think there is about a 2mm gap for expansion. I also did the Krevnov trick picked up from your cabinet post of glueing in the middle. The other thing that I hope works in my favour is the fact the wood is well seasoned as mentioned above!

David - conventional wisdom is that the grain is orientated parallel to the drawer front and is made deeper than the front to back measurement by about 6-8mm or so. The drawer back is made narrower so in fact the base sticks out the back end by about the same distance. It's then slot screwed into the drawer back and the slot takes up any movement in the base, no glue is used to fix the drawer in the front groove. That said, the way that you've done it ought to be sound, 'specially as the wood is well seasoned, but if it does shrink in the width (and churches were generally not heated) then you may find a gap appearing down the sides of the drawer as you've spot glued it in the middle .
Apologies if I've strayed into the egg sucking area... :lol: - Rob

 

[DavidE]

David - conventional wisdom is that the grain is orientated parallel to the drawer front and is made deeper than the front to back measurement by about 6-8mm or so. The drawer back is made narrower so in fact the base sticks out the back end by about the same distance. It's then slot screwed into the drawer back and the slot takes up any movement in the base, no glue is used to fix the drawer in the front groove. That said, the way that you've done it ought to be sound, 'specially as the wood is well seasoned, but if it does shrink in the width (and churches were generally not heated) then you may find a gap appearing down the sides of the drawer as you've spot glued it in the middle .
Apologies if I've strayed into the egg sucking area... :lol: - Rob

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the explanation. It would seem I have made the drawer in a slightly different manner to the conventional wisdom (ignorance is bliss :roll: ). Hopefully, I will get away with it. The pieces of wood used for the base started off life as the little shelf for books etc - so I'm pretty sure they couldn't be much drier (I hope )

Thanks, David